Torque specs

Tiny
ROB 1503
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 LINCOLN ZEPHYR
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 187,000 MILES
Need help getting lower control arms torque specs, as well as inner and outer tie rod torque specs.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 4:11 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi and thanks for using 2carpros. Com.

Here are the directions and specs for the front control arm:
__________________

Lower Arm - Front
Vehicle Steering and Suspension Suspension Control Arm Service and Repair Procedures Front Lower Arm - Front
LOWER ARM - FRONT
Lower Arm - Front

Removal and Installation

CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital parts and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Maintenance/Service and Repair.
2. Using a suitable jack, support the front wheel knuckle at the rear lower ball joint.
3. Remove the front lower arm-to-subframe bolt and washer and remove the front lower arm.
Discard the bolt and washer.
To install, tighten to 65 Nm (48 ft. Lbs.), Then tighten an additional 90 degrees.
4. Remove the damper fork-to-lower arm bolt flag nut and damper.
Discard the bolt and flag nut.
To install, tighten to 103 Nm (76 ft. Lbs.) With the suspension at the bushing fastener tightening position.
5. Remove and discard the front lower ball joint nut.
To install, tighten to 200 Nm (148 ft. Lbs.).

6. CAUTION: When the lower ball joint is separated from the wheel knuckle, the lower arm may strike the outer constant velocity (CY) joint boot with enough force to damage the boot clamp. This will result in a loss of grease from the outer CV joint. Place a block of wood, or similar item, between the lower arm and the outer CV joint to prevent the lower arm from striking the outer CV joint.

NOTE: Once pressure is applied to the ball joint with the special tool, it may be necessary to tap the wheel knuckle at the ball joint area to separate the ball joint from the wheel knuckle.

Using the special tools, separate the front lower ball joint from the wheel knuckle.

7. CAUTION: Before tightening any suspension bushing fasteners, the suspension must be at the bushing fastener tightening position. Use a suitable jack to raise the suspension until the distance between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to 402 mm (15.83 inch).

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

______________________________

Here are the directions for the front upper. By accident, I forgot to add the pics for this, so had to add them. The front upper control arm pics start with number 12. Sorry for the confusion.

UPPER ARM
Upper Arm

Special Tool(s)
Removal

CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital parts and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

1. Remove and discard the 3 shock absorber upper mount nuts.
2. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Maintenance/Service and Repair.
3. If equipped, remove the wheel speed sensor bolt.
4. If equipped, remove the wheel speed sensor harness bolt and position the wheel speed sensor aside.
5. Remove and discard the upper ball joint nut.
6. Using the special tool, separate the upper ball joint from the wheel knuckle.
7. Position the shock absorber and spring assembly toward the wheel knuckle to access the upper arm-to-body bolts.
8. Remove and discard the 2 upper arm-to-body bolts and remove the upper arm.

Installation

1. NOTE: Do not tighten the upper arm-to-body bolts at this time.

Position the upper arm and install new upper arm-to-body bolts.
2. Set the upper arm bushing fastener tightening position by aligning the hole in the upper arm with the hole in the body bracket and inserting a 6.35 mm (0.25 inch) drill bit through both holes.
3. Tighten the upper arm-to-body bolts to 55 Nm (41 ft. Lbs.) And remove the drill bit.
4. Position the shock and spring assembly and install new shock upper mount nuts.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. Lbs.).
5. Connect the upper ball joint to the wheel knuckle and install a new upper ball joint nut.
Tighten to 48 Nm (35 ft. Lbs.).
6. If removed, position the wheel speed sensor harness and install the bolt.
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 ft. Lbs.).
7. If removed, position the wheel speed sensor and install the bolt.
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 ft. Lbs.).
8. Check and, if necessary, align the front end.

______________________________

Next, here are the directions related to the tie rods. Note: The directions are more involved that what you most likely need. However, it does cover the torque specs.

_____________________________

PROCEDURES
Inner Tie Rod

Inner Tie Rod
Removal and Installation
1. Remove the steering gear.
2. Mark the pinion shaft and the steering gear housing for proper reference during installation.

3. CAUTION: Position the steering gear in a soft jaw vise, or damage to the steering gear can occur.

Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut and remove the outer tie-rod end.
To install, tighten to 75 Nm (55 ft. Lbs.).

4. NOTE: It is necessary to remove both bellows boots when removing the RH inner tie-rod end.

Remove the 4 bellow clamps and the 2 steering gear bellows boots.
5. Using a suitable wrench, hold the piston shaft.
6. Using a suitable wrench, remove the inner tie-rod end.
To install, tighten to 95 Nm (70 ft. Lbs.).

7. NOTE: Using a suitable wrench, hold the piston shaft while tightening the inner tie-rod.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

_______________________________

Now, I don't know if you needed specs for front or rear control arms. The directions above are for the front. Here are the directions for the rear. Note, the directions for the rear will start with the upper control arm and the lower will follow. Pictures starting with the eighth one will correlate with these directions.

______________________________

Upper Arm

Removal and Installation

CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital parts and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Maintenance/Service and Repair.
2. Remove and discard the shock absorber lower bolt and flag nut.
To install, tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. Lbs.) With the suspension at the bushing fastener tightening position.

3. Using a suitable jack, raise the trailing arm.
4. Remove and discard the upper arm outboard bolt.
To install, tighten to 110 Nm (81 ft. Lbs.) With the suspension at the bushing fastener tightening position.

5. Carefully lower the trailing arm and remove the jack.

6. NOTE: Position the shock absorber as necessary to remove the upper arm.

Remove and discard the upper arm inboard bolt and remove the upper arm.

To install, tighten to 110 Nm (81 ft. Lbs.) With the suspension at the bushing fastener tightening position.

7. CAUTION: Before tightening any suspension bushing fasteners, the suspension must be at the bushing fastener tightening position. Use a suitable jack to raise the suspension until the distance between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to 395 mm (15.55 inch).

To install, reverse the removal procedure.
8. Check and, if necessary, adjust the rear camber.

__________________________________________________________

Lower
Lower Arm

Lower Arm
Removal and Installation

CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital parts and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

1. Remove the spring.

2. CAUTION: Do not fully tighten the cam adjuster nut until the rear alignment has been checked and, if necessary, adjusted.

Remove and discard the cam adjuster nut, then remove the cam adjuster, cam bolt and the lower arm.
To install, tighten to 101 Nm (74 ft. Lbs.) With the suspension at the bushing fastener tightening position.

3. CAUTION: Before tightening any suspension bushing fasteners, the suspension must be at the bushing fastener tightening position. Use a suitable jack to raise the suspension until the distance between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to 395 mm (15.55 inch).
To install, reverse the removal procedure.

___________________________________________

Let me know if this is what you needed and if it helps.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good evening,

I attached the torque specs for you below for your project.

Roy
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
ROB 1503
  • MEMBER
Wow! Thank you! Joe, it is all in step by step directions. As well as you too Roy! I really appreciate all the information and time you guys took to answer my question. Once again thank you! Have a great weekend!
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
You got two of the best here to help.

Good luck

You are welcome.

We are always glad to help.

Roy
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
ROB 1503
  • MEMBER
I am sorry guys I forgot to mention that I dropped my vehicle three inches all around so when it mentions that before tightening any suspension bushing fasteners, the suspension must be at the bushing fastener tightening position. Use a suitable jack to raise the suspension until the distance between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to 395 mm (15.55 inch). Does that still apply?
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 10:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi and welcome back.

Ugh. That is a good question. Honestly, I don't see how it could be the same if you lowered the suspension. I would think the specs I provided would be three inches too high. With that in mind, I have a feeling you should deduct three inches. The specs I have are for normal height and based on the measurement between the wheel center to the fender. Therefore, and I say this with reservation, your vehicle should be 12.55".

I hope I'm not misdirecting you with that, but honestly, I never worked on one that was lowered.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
ROB 1503
  • MEMBER
Actually I was thinking of deducting three inches as well. So thank you again for your help.
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Sunday, December 16th, 2018 AT 1:39 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
My two cents is this. The suspension needs to be torqued with a loaded suspension. Three inches or five inches to me does not matter. It just needs to be loaded.

Do not jack it up as will remove the load from the suspension.

Roy
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Sunday, December 16th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM
Tiny
ROB 1503
  • MEMBER
Thank you Roy.
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Friday, December 21st, 2018 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi guys. Roy, if the vehicle is lowered, won't that have an adverse affect on alignment?
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Friday, December 21st, 2018 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
ROB 1503
  • MEMBER
Hi guys, good question! Well I replaced inner and outer tie rods yesterday. I compared the new ones with the old ones. Everything was exactly the same I even counted the threading and it was same amount as well, installed them and followed instructions, double checked that I didn't miss anything, after I finished took it out for a spin and it felt good. I even let go of steering wheel and it pulled very little to my left. Either way I knew I needed to get it aligned no matter what but it was already late in the afternoon and most shops were already closing. So I took it to get it aligned this morning and all of a sudden maybe quarter of a mile before arriving to the tire shop it started pulling to the left really hard and the tire on my front left started screeching. When I got to the shop the tire literally was so warn out the wires on the tire were showing but the right front tire was perfectly fine. I checked the tie rods thinking I didn't torque something down or something but everything looked fine. The tech there inspected it as well and said it all looked good. So I got it aligned and had both front tires replaced and drove it around for some miles to see if it would do it again at slow speeds and high speeds as well. I was up and down all day today on the streets and freeway and it didn't do it again. Do you guys have an idea what might of happened for my left side of the alignment to all of a sudden go off so much that it ruined the tire? Either way I'm going to take it to get it checked out by a specialist or take it to a Lincoln dealer and have them inspect it just in case. Again thank you guys for all your help and taking the time to help me out. Greatly appreciate it and I hope you guys have/had a wonderful Christmas holiday!

Rob
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Tuesday, December 25th, 2018 AT 3:13 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Guys, yes it will. Whoever is aligning the car has to compensate for that. I would not lower the vehicle at all as it will effect the handling of the car.

As far as the alignment, do you have the specs for before and after print out they should have given you? I am sure the toe was out by a huge amount.

As far as the alignment again, what were the caster/camber readings when they aligned it? That is critical as well.

Roy
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Tuesday, December 25th, 2018 AT 6:02 AM
Tiny
ROB 1503
  • MEMBER
Hi all,

Sorry I hadn't replied back. Had to resolve some personal issues and to top it off last week we had some heavy rain and while heading home a driver on the opposite side of traffic was going a little to fast that he lost control went over center divider/island and ended up hitting me on the front driver side. Luckily when he hit the divider it slowed him down enough that I wasn't hurt hopefully He wasn't either. I say that because he ended up taking off. I wasn't able to follow him because due to the impact the upper/lower control arms bent on the driver side and the lower (forward and rearward) control arm bushing (arm to frame) got damaged. Luckily thanx to you guys helping me out and giving me suspension torque specs I was able to replace them with no problem. So that was the Reason I hadn't replied back. I didn't want to be rude and not reply especially after you guys helped me out. So thanks again for all your help

Rob
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Monday, January 28th, 2019 AT 2:30 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Your welcome

We are always glad to help

Roy
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Monday, January 28th, 2019 AT 2:46 AM

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