2000 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 132000 miles
I have a leak causing my driver's side floorpan to be wet. It occurs when car sitting stationary in rain. The sunroof and HVAC vent drains appear to work properly (i.E. Drain water to beneath car). Any other ideas for chasing and correcting this problem?
To better assist you please let me know if your model is a DE, ES, GTZ or LS. Also the engine size in liter.
January, 2, 2009 AT 8:16 PM
The car is an ES with a 2.4L 4cyl engine.
First using this site. Hope I do get an answer. Annoying and serious problem.
January, 2, 2009 AT 9:03 PM
Well we will do the best we can to answer your question. Thank you for trying us out.
I have reviewed the TSBs for this model and there are two describing your condition. One specifically states the drivers side, the other the passenger. However - water runs....so I would check both.
On the first one, the rain may run down and leak past the foam at the firewall. But again, I would check both.
Another way to check this would be to have someone take a water hose while someone is inside the vehicle and have them allow the water to run across the closed hood area near the hinge area near the windshield. Look for the water running in.
I would then open the hood and run it down the firewall.
If still nothing then on the windshield...........
I have put both TSBs at the end of this post.
Last, it looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.
Recall - Vehicle Emission Control Label Incorrect
Recall - A/T Cooler Line Replacement
Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!
Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.
A/C - Evaporator Drain Tube Water Leaks to Interior
DATE: August, 2002
A/C WATER LEAKAGE AT EVAPORATOR DRAIN TUBE OPENING
Customers may complain of A/C water leakage onto the driver side floor. The leakage may be more noticeable after the air conditioner or front defogger has been operated.
This condition may be caused by drain tube blockage, or the heater unit not being properly sealed to the bulkhead. The bulkhead silencer pad may be positioned between the evaporator foam pad and the firewall, causing an improper seal. This could cause the evaporator drain tube foam to become deformed and allow water to drain onto the floor.
To eliminate this condition, first check for drain tube blockage. If no blockage is found, install a new evaporator foam pad as described in this bulletin. Also, inspect the heater assembly for cracks or other damage that could cause leakage. If cracks or other damage are observed, replace the heater assembly.
1999-2002 Galants built before 9/21/01
1. Remove the carpet from the driver side floor, to access the drain tube opening.
2. Inspect the drain tube for blockage (clogging). Clear any blockage found. If no blockage is found, go to Step 3.
3. Remove the heater assembly. Refer to Group 55 in the appropriate service manual for removal instructions.
a. Remove the evaporator foam pad. Inspect the drain tube on the heater assembly for cracks or other damage that could create leakage. If cracks or other damage are observed, replace the heater assembly.
b. Replace the evaporator foam pad (listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin).
4. Inspect the evaporator drain opening at the bulkhead to confirm that the silencer pad does not interfere with the drain tube opening.
a. If necessary, trim the silencer pad to eliminate any interference with the drain tube opening. The silencer pad should be fitted as shown.
5. Reinstall the heater assembly.
A/C - Water Leaks to The Interior
DATE: September, 2004
MODEL: See below
BLOWER MOTOR HOUSING FILTER
This TSB supercedes TSB-03-55-008REV, to update the affected vehicles and warranty information. New information is indicated by a shaded triangle or an arrow.
Debris (such as leaves, etc.) entering the front cowl area may clog the evaporator housing drain tube. If this occurs, the evaporator housing may fill up with condensation and overflow into the passenger compartment, and into the blower motor through the cooling tube. To eliminate this condition, clean the debris from the tube and the case, then install a blower motor housing filter as described in this bulletin.
On Lancer models produced before 9/25/02, also install special wiper pivot caps onto the wiper pivot shafts as described in TSB-03-51-001.
--> Refer to TSB-04-55-007 for Endeavor and 2004 Galant repair procedures for HVAC drain blockage.
2. Clean debris from the evaporator housing drain tube and evaporator case.
3. On Eclipse, Eclipse Spyder and 1999-2003 Galant models only: Refer to TSB-01-55-002 for filter installation procedures.
4. Remove the glove box lid.
5. Install a blower motor housing filter (listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin) a follows:
a. Use a knife to cut a section from the top of the blower motor housing, along the perforated lines as shown.
b. Install the filter with the air flow directional arrow pointing down.
c. On Lancer and Outlander models only: Secure the filter with two 5X14 self-lapping screws.
January, 15, 2009 AT 1:18 PM
My diagnosis was that the evaporator drain tube gasket needs to be replaced. Took the car to a local dealer who came to the same conclusion. They did not have the gasket in stock, but quoted about $540 to repair (99% labor)! Deciding what to do now. Lot of money for this car. Will look at tube from underneath car to see if external caulking (RTV) ia a possible solution.
January, 15, 2009 AT 5:12 PM
Thanks for the update. Me.I would do it myself. Take a long weekend and just get after it.
Thanks again for the update.
February, 18, 2009 AT 1:17 AM
Im may seem that it only leaks in the rain, I thought the same, but it was a rubber elbow on the ac drain which also seals the opening in the firewall
February, 18, 2009 AT 9:04 AM
Great to hear from you. So if I understand you correctly you did find the leak with the water hose and it was also leaking from the AC drain hose too?
I am really happy to hear your car is fixed. Thanks for the update for us and the readers.
February, 21, 2009 AT 7:41 AM
I did find a leak with coming through the firewall via the evaporator drain tube. Since the dealer wanted $540 to do your suggested replacement of the foam gasket about the tube, I looked a little harder at the situation, then noticed I was missing the 90 degree rubber fitting on the end of the tube (saw picture in your reply). I replaced that and that leak ceased. Yea!
However, I still have a leak. I just traced it to water entering through the driver's side air intake vent below the windshield and entering the cabin somewhere in the upper driver's side behind the dash close to where all of the sheet metal is joined. The water also drains under the car, which I verifired early on in the repair process as well as again today.
Any suggestions on how to proceed from here to find and repair the root cause of the leak?
February, 22, 2009 AT 6:20 PM
Well - great you fixed the one leak. Looks like you saved a lot of money on that.
The second leak.I don't have a good pic of that area. So if you can send one that may help.
Otherwise - my suggestion from here is to look all around that area. Something must be plugged or rusted through. Water is made to drain in that area so the trick is to figure out if it is backing up or draining through.
I would first do a good visual. Look for leaves, or any other trash that may clog a drain area.
I would then take an air hose and blow around really good.
Next. Back to the water only this time. Out of a pitcher to control better. Only do one side at a time and see the natural flow of the water. It will tell you where it is supposed to drain at. Follow that and maybe you can find your plugged area or the rusted through.
If the metal has separated. You can purchase body sealant at the auto paint store. It comes out of a tube like caulk then dries with some flex but no water penetration that is for sure.
I hope this helps. Let me know.
March, 28, 2009 AT 12:31 PM
Sorry for the delay in response, but I wanted to be sure the leak was fixed. The second leak I found was at a joint between the firewall and side panel about at the top of that joint. It is just above where a large wiring harness enters the side panel to the dash. I found that you cannot access the joint from outside of the passenger conpartment, so I applied silicone sealant the joint from inside. It is difficult to access even from inside the car. It is high up behind the dash and underneath the foam rubber floor insulation that is not easy to move out of the way. Seems this has fixed the problem though (fingers crossed!).