2005 Mitsubishi Endeavor

Tiny
MCGRIFKEN
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR
2005 Mitsubishi Endeavor 76000 miles

I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 76000 miles on it. A few months ago I noticed a rotten egg smell coming from my car once I returned home from driving. It didn't happen very often, so I didn't worry about it. It's still happening intermittently, but more frequently than before. My gas mileage is still the same as it was before. I can't tell if I've lost a little power going up hills or if it's in my head since I'm looking for it. My check engine light isn't on and hasn't been on. I'm noticing it more now if I sit idling for a while in traffic with my air conditioner on. We called the Dealer and he said that if the check engine light isn't on then it's not the catalytic converter. If the fuel mixture is too rich, what would cause it? HELP!
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 12:49 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Hi McGrifken. Welcome to the forum. Two things can cause that smell. The exhaust system is one, but an overcharging battery is more common. The next time this happens, leave the engine running and jump out of the car, (put it in park first :)), and use a cheap digital voltmeter to measure the voltage between the two battery posts. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is higher than around 15 volts, the water will start to boil out of the battery and will eventually lead to the smell. Continued overcharging will destroy the battery.

Also smell the exhaust right by the tail pipe to be sure that isn't the source of the stink.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 1:23 PM
Tiny
MCGRIFKEN
  • MEMBER
The smell is coming from the tail pipe. I've checked to see if the smell is coming from the front of the car and it isn't. I took the car to Auto Zone to see if they could run a diagnostic, but said that since the check engine light wasn't on there was nothing that could be done. They also said it was probably a bad cat. Why would it smell after idling or harder acceleration?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Dandy. That rules out battery and charging system problems.

The Engine Computer is constantly changing the fuel mixture from too rich to too lean a few times per second. When it goes lean, the unburned oxygen is stored in the catalytic converter. When it goes too rich, the unburned fuel mixes with the stored oxygen and is burned. Acceleration requires a richer mixture so more fuel is being burned in the converter. That increases the concentration of that wonderful smell. Too much unburned fuel from other causes such as a leaky injector, leaking fuel pressure regulator, or a misfiring spark plug can cause overheating of the converter and the smell. There are sanitizers, or odor eliminators for catalytic converters but I've never used them or heard how well they work, but normally the cause of the overheating must be addressed first, then the converter is replaced if the smell doesn't clear up. If just the converter is replaced, you run the risk of the same thing happening to the new one.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 1:59 PM
Tiny
HOPPY313
  • MEMBER
I have the SAME PROBLEM with our 2005 Mitsu. Endeavor. Rotten eggs is the best way to describe it, although my wife often blames ME (haha). Its NOT me, and I thought it was a bad batch of gas at first. Our dealer thought I was making it up, and of course- when I sent it in, it didnt do it. Just did it tonight. I have the same issues as above, ours more frequently when we park it in the garage, obviously after driving it for anywhere from 5 to 15+ miles. Unfortunately, I complained before when we had the coverage, now-conveniently- we're OUT of warranty. Any suggestions! Is a cat converter something a non-car guy can do! BTW, we have 57,000 or so miles. Thanks :)
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 26th, 2010 AT 5:15 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Don't know about other manufacturers, but if you bring a Chrysler in to the dealership, the complaint will be documented, even if it doesn't act up there. They will warranty previously-documented problems for many years and miles after the warranty expires. Wouldn't hurt to ask if they'll still handle yours under an extended warranty.

Catalytic converters are kind of hard for a do-it-yourselfer to replace, but not impossible, but you need to stop what is causing it to overheat first, if that's what is happening. Also check for a severely overcharging battery. Sniff around the tail pipe and the battery to find out where the smell is coming from.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 26th, 2010 AT 6:19 AM
Tiny
HOPPY313
  • MEMBER
Thanks, Cardiodoc :) I found what seems to be the rattling problem I was having. One of (if not both) of my heat plates are rusted off. At the end of the strap that holds them in, the plate is coming off. When I tapped the exhaust line, the rattling was at that point. Unfortunately, I'll have to go to the dealer to get the part(s) needed. I will be sure to tell them of the smell again. HOPEFULLY, they will listen this time, as now Im out of warranty, but when I first complained about it, I was IN warranty. Gotta love dealers. :/ But the smell is definitely from the tailpipe end, versus the battery. (Never heard of THAT one before). I learn something new every day. :)
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 26th, 2010 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Rattling heat shields can be tack-welded with a wire feed welder. A simple do-it-yourself trick is to band it with a large screw-type hose clamp. Use two of them, end-to-end, if you need a longer one. If that holds the two halves together yet lets them rattle over the pipe, simply bend them a little flatter to remove part of their curve, then clamping them will hold them tighter to the pipe. Another trick is to wedge a piece of metal through a hole or through a slot you cut in the shield to take up the gap between the pipe and shield, then clamp it in place with the hose clamp. Also, if you can find a soft spot, typically due to rust, you can pound in a depression, then wrap the hose clamp around it with a small piece of metal pipe in the depression. The hose clamp will squeeze the pipe to hold the shield against the exhaust pipe. These things work on many import vehicles that have two half shields welded together as appears to be the case in your photo. If you have just one half shield, those are easier to flatten out by hand so the clamp will hold it to the pipe better. The shield in your photo has a smaller diameter on the end where it holds onto the pipe. That is a good place for a hose clamp. First try to bend the edge of the shield up in just a few small spots. That will give the slots in the hose clamp something to bite onto to prevent the clamp from sliding off the shield.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 26th, 2010 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
HOPPY313
  • MEMBER
Thanks so much Caradiodoc. I honestly never thought of doing that. It may just work! I am by far, no car expert. So me finding this little nuance is half my battle :) I had no loss of power, engine tone-- nothing. So eventually I figured out it was a simple rattle. After banging on the tailpipe, I worked my way to this little section in the picture. My problem is, I would (possibly) need a diagram to see if the two shields are ONE, or if they're two SEPARATE pieces. If I do as you say, that is- to make little dents in it to keep it from rattling on itself, will it affect the way the shield is supposed to work. My understanding is, they're not actually supposed to touch the pipe. Will the few dents I make affect that purpose? And would you believe, in the world of Internet Everything, I cannot find ANYTHING online about a diagram of this car's exhaust parts! Unbelievable! Its the ONE THING you cant find online these days! :) If you look at the pic, the shield is only loose/ broken off on the left side (closest to the engine side). My concern is, if I loosen the 2 bands holding it in, is the bent shield piece thats rusted off ONE shield, or is it part of a whole, larger piece. Because these shields go up into where I cannot reach. Thats why I need a diagram. Hopefully the dealer will have THAT much for me :) Thanks once again for all your help. I will definitely try the metal band trick!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, December 27th, 2010 AT 4:29 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Let me clarify about the shields. You have two-piece shields crimped together on the sides. Some cars have just a half shield on the bottom. They are designed to keep leaves away from hot parts. Full shields like yours reduce heat transfer to nearby engine and transmission parts and wiring harnesses. Minor modifications like dents and adding clamps will not have any affect.

One more trick I forgot about that is real easy is to drill about a 1/8" hole in the middle of a shield, then run a self-tapping screw through it. Grind the point off first so it doesn't try to go into the pipe. Also, the point would wear down over time and the shield will rattle again. This only works when the two halves of the shields are still solidly attached to each other.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, December 27th, 2010 AT 5:49 AM
Tiny
HOPPY313
  • MEMBER
Well, caradiodoc-- I ended up at the dealer today. Found out, I still have some warranty. About 4000+ miles, or 9 months. So THAT was some good news this morning. They told me theyre 'just going to rip it off.(The shield) Mitsubishi is telling us to just do that- there's no more replacing those parts'
I stood there in shock for a minute. "WHAT!" My logic is, if it was there to begin with, it needs to be put back on, right! :) I know it's just a shield, but I dont know-- to me, it sounds as if they dont want to be bothered, or they have no solution to fix it (But YOU DID!) I am going to let them do it. Since I am under warranty, I might as well use it. And theyre going to check out the egg smell/ cat converter--- but the dealer told me, "If theres no light, no codes, then we cant do anything for you. There would be nothing wrong". Well, I will be documented for TWO complaints, so we'll see where THAT gets me later. But definitely after warranty, I will be looking for a foreign/Mitsu. Repair shop around me. This dealer cant do much more than brakes and rotors.
I see me buying straps in my future! Hahaha. Thanks for all your help. I'm definitely more educated now! :)
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 4:15 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides