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1999 Mercury Sable In Need of Serious Help

Tiny
ABIRO79
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MERCURY SABLE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 177,000 MILES
I bought this car used in hopes that I would be able to replace my 88 Mercury Sable 3.0. I seem to have the mystery car that I can't figure out. I have checked out this car from top to bottom. So far there seems to an odd short somewhere. The computer is not registering it. However, When the fan comes on the headlights and interior lights dim. If I leave the heat/vent on and start the car the car will jump. Sometimes, the will start and run for a while then stall and not restart. The will crank but won't catch. The I have to wait a while and it usually restart. Happens in all types of weather conditions so I can't even isolate it to that. When the car is idled for a long period of time there is a burning smell but don't know what's burning. The car refuses to go above 70mph. Whenever I go above 70mph the car will feel like it's having a sezure. The car also has limited horsepower when I need to accelerate quickly or uphill. The most recent issue that is now causing my headache on top of all this. Drove the car hit about 85 mph didn't have a sezure but now I got a loud rattling noise above 2500 rpms. One of the coolant hoses has a leak that the serpentine belt is spreading everywhere. When I press the gas a low speeds I will hear a grinding noise. Also when I turn the car off there seems to a boiling noise from somewhere.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 7:17 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,179 POSTS
Wow! I don't know where to start. Let start with the electrical problems you are having. Has the battery ever gone dead? You mentioned that it will jump start. Also, has the check engine light come on? Next, is the new ratteling sound coming from under the vehicle? Has the engine ever overheated? Have you ever notices a creamy substance in the oil that would indicate coolant getting into the oil?

I think that is enough to start with. Let me know the answers to those questions, and we'll go from there.

Joe
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 3:11 PM
Tiny
ABIRO79
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Yes the battery has been replaced already. The terminals were cleaned at that time and during a recent oil change. The car will start on it's own after it has rested for a while after it stalls. No there is no coolant getting into the engine and has not overheated. Usually the reserve has cracked on the bottom and hose issues but the temperature for the engine has never really overheated. Regarding the rattling, it sounded like a steel pan with a bolt in it being shook around but only after the car has been above 2500rpms for a while. This doesn't happen under 2500rpms. When I looked under the car today, the rubber gasket on the lower part of the engine seems to have slipped out of place and one of the upper coolant hoses has a leak and is acting like a sprinkler now.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,179 POSTS
As far as the rattle, take a rubber mallot and tap on the exhaust. It sounds like a heat shield is loose or internally the catylatic converter has come loose. This could cause power loss. The coolant leak should be taken care of. Check to see if it is leaking coolant onto the craknshaft sensor located near the crank pulley. That could be the cause of the no start. If there is no evidence of coolant hitting it, I need you to check to see if the engine is getting spark and fuel when it doesn't start. One will be missing. Here is a how to for checking both:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

You will need a fuel pressure gauge to test it. However, most parts stores will lend or rent the tool to you.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
ABIRO79
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  • 4 POSTS
Joe,

Ok, After we looked at the car last night, it appears the water pump died. The leak was from the weep holes. But that still doesn't explain to me the engine. How can the engine of the car just shut down and not restart for approx. 30 minutes. The usual order of things when the engine shuts down are as follows: Hard to gain speed, rpm isn't steady and then dies. For the first couple of minutes the car loses all power and you can't even hear the starter. After a couple of minutes you can crank the car but won't catch, then after 30 minutes the car will crank and catch. There are no check engine lights.
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Tuesday, January 5th, 2010 AT 7:59 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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When you say power loss, are you refering to the engine or the electrical system? Also, did you notice if the coolant was getting to the crank sensor?

Let me know.
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Tuesday, January 5th, 2010 AT 11:30 PM
Tiny
ABIRO79
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When I say power loss, I mean the engine shut down complete. There are no lights on the dash. When you turn the key you don't even hear the starter click. After a couple of minutes you have cranking ability but it doesn't catch. After about 20-30 minutes it will catch when you crank it. The coolant is not getting to crank sensor.
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Tuesday, January 5th, 2010 AT 11:56 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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If you have a total electrical shut down, you need to start at the battery and check for grounds that are broken, corroded, damaged.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2010 AT 6:44 PM

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