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1998 Mazda Millenia Engine hesitates and dies

Tiny
LUVALOTUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 MAZDA MILLENIA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air, fuel filter and crankshaft position sensor but my car still cuts out at idle and stumbles or dies when the throttle is depressed. Once above idle the engine appears to run OK. The engine does not smoke or use oil, and has had no other problems running since new. I don't see the engine having this problem when it is cold.
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Wednesday, January 13th, 2010 AT 2:23 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Is the check engine light on? Do you have a digital multi meter if needed?
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Wednesday, January 13th, 2010 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
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No codes thrown, and yes I have a digital multimeter and the skill to use it. I appreciate any help guys.
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Wednesday, January 13th, 2010 AT 10:42 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
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Ok if you would first get some mass air flow cleaner. Remove the mass air flow meter and clean it. Then put it back in and see if it runs better. If there is now change then turn it off and unplug the mass air flow meter and start it again. Now does it stay idling? Get back to me with what you find here.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2010 AT 10:41 AM
Tiny
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I cleaned the MAF, but still have the problem. I checked fuel pressure, it idles at about 32psi and increases when I open the throttle and the pressure was good when I experienced the problem, checked the throttle position sensor and it changes value smooth and evenly. It feels like an intermittent miss at idle, but will get worse to the point it may die if you let it idle for several minutes and will choke like it is starving for fuel when the throttle is opened. It does not do this every time I open the throttle. It also does not seem to have the problem when cold, but the idle is higher then too. I still have no engine codes. I can't find any vacuum leaks either. Thanks for any advice guys.
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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 12:36 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
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Ok good so far. Now did you unplug the MAF when it acts up to see it is stops? If not please do that. What brand of spark plugs did you use? Did you have this problem before you did the tune up or did it start after the tune up?
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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 11:22 AM
Tiny
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I have tested the MAF it does make it worse when I unplug it, I have checked every vacuum line, tested the coil primary and secondary and both are within tolerance ( the seconday is just inside the upper limit), checked that every injector is cycling at a steady rate, engine is worse in that it will not idle after it has been running for 5 minutes or more. It will start missing and die. It is harder to start after that like the fuel is not getting to the cylinders but I have good fuel pressure at the rail (32psi at idle). I have pulled the plug wires one at a time and they make it worse each time so it's not a single cylinder. If I cut the A/C on it will idle higher, but will still miss and die even then. The only thing I havent mentioned is that the fuel pressure seems to leak down slowly after the engine is shut off (it takes seceral minutes to drain to around 15psi). I have done every thing I can think of, so I hope someone has an idea as to what it might be. I have removed the throttle body to clean the BAC and IAC valves and will be reinstalling tomorrow.
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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
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I forgot to add that the plugs are Bosch Platinum and I have used them throughout the life of the vehicle. Also I tuned it because it was acting up.
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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 8:24 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
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Ok thanks. Did you check for any vacuum leaks within the intake and such?
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Tuesday, January 19th, 2010 AT 8:07 PM

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