Engine Performance problem
1993 Mazda b2600 4 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 160000 miles
My truck sat for four months without running while I was overseas. Now, when I start it and its it cold, it runs great. When it gets up to temp, it runs rough and then eventually dies. After tinkering around I ran it again, but this time I had the lights, heater fan, and fog lights on and after it warmed up, it stayed running and ran great, but when I shut all the lights and fan off, it sputtered and then died. I have been told it might be either the throttle positioning sensor or the Idle air control valve. Also, is the idle air control valve suposed to have water running through it? I took of the hose expecting air and I had water come out when I started it. (Is this for Coolant reasons?) Also, I have found NO vacum leaks either.
Yes, the IAC hoses have coolant running through them. It is not for cooling but rather to provide the IAC with the operating temperature and control its opening.
Get the throttle body and IAC cleaned to see if the idling stabilises. When IAC are left sitting for extended periods of time, they tend to stick and causes idling issues.
July, 14, 2010 AT 12:05 AM
It been three months and I still haven't fixed my truck due to the lack of money by being unemployed. Anyway, I have been asking around and talked to some inlaws and they said they had van that did the same thing, and it turned out to be the intank fuel pump. Have you every heard of this? I really dont want to drop my tank for nothing. Another thing is I cant find a code reader for my 93 Mazda, but also the engine light doesnt even come on so I mightn ot work anyway. Just thought I would pick your brain and thanks for any info you can give me.
July, 14, 2010 AT 8:12 AM
It is possible for the intank fuel pump to be the cause but I don't think that is the cause. You mentioned it was operating welll with the headlights and other electrical equipments and cut off only after those had been turned off. That indicates a possible electrical interruption or the IAC malfunctioing.
You do not need a code reader to retrieve the codes.
Trouble Code Access
1.Engine must be at normal operating temperature. Using jumper wire, ground Green, 1-pin check connector. Check connector is on right side fenderwell, near fuel filter and Green, 6-pin self-diagnostic connector. See Fig. 2.
ECU constantly checks for malfunction of input devices. However, ECU only checks output devices for 3-second period after ignition is turned on and Green check connector is grounded.
2.Turn ignition switch to ON position. The codes may be read by counting number of pulses of Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL). MIL is located under the engine symbol marked CHECK, in center of instrument cluster.
3.The code will be repeated, or other codes will be flashed if more than one is stored. See Fig. 3. If more than one code is stored, codes will be displayed in order of lowest to highest.
July, 14, 2010 AT 10:50 AM
Believe it or not, I didn't get any codes when I grounded the single green wire. I ran the truck until it died, adn it was up to temp. Grounded the green wire and then turn the key to on position and nothing happened. Tired different area to ground withthe same result. So I am stumped. LOL
July, 14, 2010 AT 12:59 PM
No trouble codes means the PCM did not detect any of the sensor malfunctioning.
Under such circumstances, you should check what is missing causing the non starting when it stalled.
At bottom of post there is a link " First Things To Check ". Get an idea what to look for.