Stalls when put into gear

Tiny
MICK MERLYN
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
When car is pulled into gear, the car dies, immediately. It idles fine and run great, until it is pulled into gear, the it stops running. Our technician ran the codes, found none, and told us the torque converter was staying in the locked position. He wanted to replace the transmission. I called a transmission shop, and they say it sound more like an internal transmission sensor. Has anyone ever run accross an issue like this? Any ideas?
Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 8:55 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Could be the TCC(torque converter clutch solenoid) also could be the transmission filter came off the suction tube. Also does it have working brake lights?
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Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 8:58 AM
Tiny
MICK MERLYN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Merlin 2021, Thanks for the help, now a couple of more questions. Where is the TCC solenoid located, and why are you questioning brake lights? Thanks for the help, you guys are fabulous.
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Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 12:39 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Torque Converter Clutch Always Engaged (Stalls Engine) Check valve body (bolt torque, gaskets and separator plate damaged or positioned incorrectly, valve body pilot sleeve, manual shift valve, bypass clutch control valve/plunger, solenoid regulator valve, converter regulator valve) and torque converter.
Brake Pedal Position (BPP) Switch
The brake pedal position (BPP) switch tells the powertrain control module when the brakes are applied. The
torque converter clutch disengages whens the brakes are applied. The BPP switch closes when the brakes
are applied and opens when they are released.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 8:23 AM
Tiny
MICK MERLYN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Brake lights work. First tech want to r&r transmission.
After road test, transmission shop owner says he is 85% sure problem in electrical. I did not care for first fellow, he seemed intent on transmission overhaul. He said that the transmission coded there was no electrical failures within transmission. He also said he unhooked the electrical to transmission and it was the same thing. That made no sense. We are new to this area, and do not know any technicians, that always makes it tough. Any suggestions as to what you would guess? Thanks, you have been great.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
I think it could be either, what were the code(s)? The other thing is there is a wiring harness that runs in the back of the motor, wiggle the harness and see if it stalls. Has the pan been removed yet? Still could be the filter came off.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
MICK MERLYN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Mike the first fellow, said he ran the transmission on a "transmission computer". I had never heard of anything like that. He was not answering my questions directly and I felt he was trying to sell me a transmission. He did say that he "unhooked the transmission electrical, and the converter did not unlock. He did not pull the left front wheel off, and did not pull the inspection cover off of the transmission. He did not offer codes, and I didn't ask, he charged my son $85.00. We left.
The tranmission shop owner said he was "85% sure the problem was electrical, and looked at our bill to see if there were any codes. There were no codes. I would have thought we would get a code or something. Our transmission shop charges $25 for the diagnotic test. He says if it is electrical, it should cost about $300 to repair. Your thoughts?
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 12:15 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Probably about right for the shift solenoids. Check electrical connector at the transmission, make sure it's firmly seated, try disconnecting it, then inspect for corrosion, bent pins and do the same on the transmission, use a mirror to see the pins. Transmission codes are as follows and even a cheap hand held scanner can read them, I recommend you buy one, they work on all cars sold in the US since 96'


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Trans_Codes_1.jpg

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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 12:45 PM
Tiny
MICK MERLYN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Odd that you ask about the code readers. Mike, I asked about the pruchase of one, and was told it was not a good idea. It had caused people to install parts that were not needed because they read codes that were not it the proper sequences.
I don't do a lot of work, anymore, mainly because I don't have time or understand it as well in today's world. I also own a 2008 Lacrosse Special (love those V8 engines) a 2000 F-150 4X4, and a 1966 Volkswagen Beetle. Is there a particular brand or type of scanner that you would recommend? I just checked on this a few days ago, because of the Lincoln problem, and was talked out of it. Any help you could lend would help immensely. Do all of the reader plug in under the dash, or is there a computer just for the transmission? Thanks merlin, you have been a lot of help.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 2:13 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Depends how much you want to spend, a very good laptop program can be found at autoenginuity, or cheaper hand helds at any parts stores, you can always read your codes and post them here with make model and year engine size of the car and we can help from there. Transmission codes are read through the same connection.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
MICK MERLYN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thank, Mike. I let you know how this comes out.
I just wanted to say that I went to my first mechanic, I found him online, and he had the highest rating and the most responses. I think he might have posted them himself. Lol. I found the transmission shop, by accident, asking a professional parts man for a referral, because I was so new to the area. This has been a very good experience, I've learned a ton, in the last couple of days. Mostly, from you.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 3:27 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Thanks Mick, I'll be watching!
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Sunday, August 1st, 2010 AT 9:55 AM
Tiny
JOHN SELF
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Merlin2021, my 94 shuts off when I put it in drive. Reverse works as it should but drive just stalls out. And brake lights do not work.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 6:57 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 54,137 POSTS
It sounds like you have a vacuum leak or the IAC is dirty or needs replacement. to be sure please check out this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 7:13 PM

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