Limp mode suspect dangling wires

Tiny
AMY BONNELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
Third time is a charm. I lost the first two descriptions by turning my phone sideways. They were awesomely perfect. This one will not be.

Transmission goes into limp mode intermittently. It started happening after I changed the spark plugs. Sometimes it will reset when I start restart the vehicle and sometimes it starts out in the limp mode. The other day I noticed two wires dangling in the front of the engine compartment towards the driver side. One blue wire and one black wire. The wires do not reach very far so there are only so many things they could have be connected to. I cannot figure out where they go. Vehicle could be going into limp mode for a variety of reasons however this is my first choice. Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I would be glad to provide more information when I am not so irritated with my phone. Oh and I am way broke so I cannot be trying this sensor and that sensor until I find something that works.

I am not sure if this is related or not but quite possibly could be; with the battery fully disconnected and out of the vehicle my dome light, the hood light and my accessory outlet still turn on. I have not found a second battery or power source anywhere.

Only trouble code is 12 via the key dance.
Sunday, October 15th, 2017 AT 3:10 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,070 POSTS
We are working on the issue of the phone being turned while typing to take a picture sorry about that.

The two wires that are not connected can you follow the wiring down to see where it heads to, then we can look up the wiring diagrams for you and get it reconnected.

When the car goes into limp mode can you pull over and cylinder the key to see if it goes away please?

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, October 16th, 2017 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
AMY BONNELL
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks for the response! I believe they're coming from the TCM. I haven't found a diagram for it to see which component that wiring spot goes to. I think it might be the engine fan. I'll be checking that here shortly.

I used to be able to reset with a restart but that is happening less frequently. If the engine is cold, it does reset and shift normally. I can get farther on the freeway than on the side roads. My engine gets quite hot but the instrument panel gauge reads normal. The fan only comes on when I run the ac and not all the time then either. Is that a sensor or thermostat?

I know just enough about engine repair and maintenance to get myself into trouble. I apologize for not using the correct terminology. Your help is greatly appreciated!
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Wednesday, October 18th, 2017 AT 9:31 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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  • 43,070 POSTS
No problem, it sounds like that wire may or may not be part of the problem. What happens is when the seals bypass inside the transmission it goes into limp mode. How many miles are on the transmission do you know?
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Wednesday, October 18th, 2017 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
AMY BONNELL
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks Ken! The odometer reads 165k but those can't be original. I know almost zero about this vehicle's history. I did find out it was sold at an auction (never a good sign). I didn't pay much for it figuring there were problems but dang if it ain't a you know what with no room to get to things and not a lot of info for this particular pos.

I like that answer. May or may not have anything to do with it! I agree 100% I didn't understand the next sentence. I do get a shock often when exiting the van if I touch metal on the door first thing.

It seems like it's worse when it's hot.

I removed the bumper, grill and fan but saw nothing that those wires should be connected to.

All of the vacuum diagrams I've seen show a different configuration than the one on my hood shows. The biggest difference being two vac lines coming from the throttle body when mine and the hood are one. I didn't change that so I doubt it's part of this problem. I just didn't feel like I typed enough and had to throw that in.

Thanks again for your help!
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Thursday, October 19th, 2017 AT 7:06 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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From the picture it is hard to tell where the wire is headed does it go into a main harness or to a light? Can you see any sensors around that area that are not connected?
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Thursday, October 19th, 2017 AT 11:37 AM
Tiny
AMY BONNELL
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I tried everywhere the wires could reach and didn't find where they could connect. Neither wire is hot.

I have one relay that is bad. It was the Trans Sys and I switched it to the lo fan and got an error code 35. I switched the bad one with the backup lamps and code went away.

I had codes read with an obd1 reader and there weren't any stored.

The bad relay while on the Trans sys got really hot with the key in the on position but hadn't started the engine. Since I moved that relay, all of them are superheated. Abnormally hot. Can I just remove the bad one temporarily without causing too much havoc?

I'm wondering if pcm is bad or wire leading into it is toast? I'm pretty sure 5 gallons of gasoline and a match would put an end to my auto misery and make me feel better for about 30 minutes. Thanks again for your help!
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Friday, November 10th, 2017 AT 1:24 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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  • 43,070 POSTS
LOL yep it can get frustrating, I am wondering about the battery cables and the ground cable from the engine to the frame ar intact. Make sure the engine is grounded to the frame. If the ground strap is missing it can cause all kinds of problems.
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Friday, November 10th, 2017 AT 11:06 AM

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