Kia Sportage

Tiny
ANDRIN ATEM
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 KIA SPORTAGE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 16,578 MILES
Please I am having difficulties locating the differences between these sensor and their locations, a diagram can help to know location of each sensor.

I get confused which is my scanner reporting fault.

Main issue is, car has drives and stalls, sometimes don’t keep idle, also idling is below specification.

KNDPBCA23B7104034

The intake manifold runner sensor switch, does it have a particular way of installing?

Please check the images below and advise.

Thanks!
Sunday, August 31st, 2025 AT 9:52 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
MECHTRIX
  • MECHANIC
  • 382 POSTS
This problem might be a little tricky. And only pertains to this perticular vehicle with this perticular problem. That said heres the breakdown

These 2 sensor are similar one measures the position and the speed of a cam.
The other one references only the position. Mostly for starting porposes. They work together to indicate weather or not the two cams are in synchronization or not " with the crankshaft they report to the ecu and that data gets combined with other incoming data from other sensors around the engine to adjust the way the engine runs for longevity and economy and environmental benefits
Fortunately Ideally when you get both of them acting up at the same time its a great opertuinity to check the internal timing components for worn out or broken parts like
timing belt /chain
rails guides rollers ect. The list goes on and
Somtimes a tooth can break away from the belt or it can jump a tooth or link if its a chain. Or problems of that sort among others. So now would be the time to check it before its to late and theres catistofic damage.
The reason im meantiining these things is becuase these sensors are vary reliable they last many years giving great service they do stop working at some point but the key is they rarely break at the same time it almost never happens. Thats just another reason to check the internal cam timing components for abnormal wearing issues /slop or out of sync problems it might be having. Now. Somtimes after checking these you get a clean bill of heath and determine that everything's OK. Good news. Then you would just replace both sensors ( them being cheap). But unfortunately here the tricky part
some mechanics would just replace the 2 sensors and if it runs ok ish theyd let it go out the door. Wich can be a big mistake becuase somtimes shortly after that catistrific damage accures . So" for that reason I'd advise against just doing that. If it were me I'd check the timing components first to make sure its safe or not" to go ahead and change or not change out one or both sensors and so for these reasons I believe it would be best for you to just take it to a shop or the delership to have it checked it ( might be overdue anyway) to determine these things first before jumping to conclusions and just throwing parts at it. And currently I dont believe the sensors are at fualt since there are still reporting accuratly. Keep in mind yes it looks simple but might not be in the long run. See tricky!. Sorry if this was a bit long just thought it was important
best of luck to you. I hope this helps for you to make a clear decision on where to go next. Other mechanics thoughts?
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Sunday, August 31st, 2025 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
ANDRIN ATEM
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Thanks very much, it was not long. You explained very well. Thank you.
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Sunday, August 31st, 2025 AT 11:53 PM
Tiny
ANDRIN ATEM
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  • 397 POSTS
While the engine was running, I actually pulled out both sensor. And it was still running as if nothing was pulled out.

What about the manifold runner? Could it also cause stalling or delay in starting?

Regarding the internal cams, it’s true they had suffered worn out.
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Sunday, August 31st, 2025 AT 11:59 PM
Tiny
ANDRIN ATEM
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Please can you advise on the expect the car starts on all gears? Or I need to generate another report concerning that.
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Monday, September 1st, 2025 AT 12:03 AM
Tiny
MECHTRIX
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Ok so whaever you pulled out and ran the car without is obviously broken or not funtioning properly so replace those All sensors need to be installed and working properly if any are disconnected or removed and you run the car its going to damage things and just keep casting new codes the idea is to put it back to its original condition as much as possible otherwise the problem will never be solved it will only get worse . Now it seems like we're moving off target and starting down some other path let us know what exactly the problems your having are please we only do one topic at a time if you need to get on another topic youl need to repost. For that. Thanks . Let us know good luck happy to help
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Monday, September 1st, 2025 AT 12:40 AM
Tiny
ANDRIN ATEM
  • MEMBER
  • 397 POSTS
Sure! Thank you. Was the car supposed to still be running after those two sensors were removed? Example, I know if the crank sensor is remove while car is running it will shut off.
If I could have the resistance test specs for those sensors, I could check the coil resistance to see if they are within specifications. As well as the pin out signals to very the sensor output base on the rotation of the engine.

But this intake camshaft and exhaust camshaft sensors were removed while car was idling, but no change as if something had been disconnected.

Does this indicate failure of this sensors?

Let me attach a live data chart I took while both were connected.
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Monday, September 1st, 2025 AT 3:37 AM
Tiny
MECHTRIX
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No it doesn't but ive already explained it earlier you can always go back and read what was explained that said you should never run it without the sensors installed . So now theres corrupted data in the ecu thats just gonna complicate things
So id say you need to erase it now and reset the ecu
And start all over again scan it again and get a new data set to start with let us know good luck
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Monday, September 1st, 2025 AT 9:49 AM
Tiny
ANDRIN ATEM
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Ok! Erasing the data will reset the ecu tight. When I did, these codes remain permanent. For the AwD I removed the module. I have attached an image of the codes below.
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Monday, September 1st, 2025 AT 10:58 AM
Tiny
MECHTRIX
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1. Ok th code u111 is just for when you disconnected a the batery or it has a chaging problem can be related to munber 3 down below

2. The po447 is for the evap system you can check this later after the other two numbers 1 and 3.

3. The po626 is for a fualty alternator signal or bad wiring to or from the alternator it can cous lots of problems check that first ot also might be related to number 1 up top. So check this first

So far these are pretty simple fixes but let us know if these are fixed then some of the old problems night not come back good luck
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Monday, September 1st, 2025 AT 12:16 PM

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