1986 Jeep CJ7 can't start

Tiny
PAUL12600
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 JEEP CJ7
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 163,000 MILES
As I tried to start the car, it wouldn’t. The ignition key moves in 4 positions –
1 – Lock
2 – Off
3 – El. Circuit
4 – Start
All positions seems to work (even on the position #3 all the gauges work and the voltage gage shows the battery status) except, when I try to “start" absolutely nothing happens and it starts draining the battery – real bad. After trying to start again, position #3 fails to work. After replacing the battery, the same thing happens - - position #3 works but the start attempt seems to drain real bad the battery. Smell, under the hood is like the battery acid would vaporize...
I replaced Alternator, Starter and Battery. Didn’t help any.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 21st, 2010 AT 6:32 PM

2 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK, CJ GUY, see my profile.

I am assuming everything you mentioned, that has been replaced, WORKS.

Lets move on to the heart, Mr. Solinoid. You will be my 1st Experiment with stuff I made at "PAINT"

Make sure ALL is hooked up EXACTLY as in PIC, if you can't read some of it, reply for explanation,

Currently RE-DOING explanation 1-7 to make it more readable.....clean, tighten, wires in right locations

With cable 2, disconnected you should get a Heavy click when key at start position (provided 12V is on "S" wire, with KEY CRANKING).

May have to replace solinoid if not clicking w/ wires correct and #2 (starter cable) unhooked.

OR investigate why "S" is not recieving 12V while cranking.

SEND RESULTS, Will help all I can.

Love, Turddog


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_17_EXPLANATION_1.jpg



"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 21st, 2010 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Was in a hurry, IF solinoid seems to be CLICKING, Hook #2 cable back on,

INSURE YOU DO NOT HAVE CABLE, metal end, TOUCHING NOTHING BUT THE STARTER TAB ! ! !

DOES THE STARTER. TRY OR MAKE A NOISE?

See if you can turn engine, CLOCKWISE, as viewed from the front, with a socket and breaker bar, on the crankshaft nut, to see if it is Locked up, or locked into starter.

Remove starter, insure it is correct, parts stores make mistakes too.

Have it tested at parts store, You can get BAD new parts too.

Give Results, so we know what to attack next.

Love, Turddog
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 21st, 2010 AT 7:52 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides