I got you buddy, see my profile....I will be back in a moment with the info you need!....I will edit this post, so look for me, here.
If the following sounds like I'm fixing somebody else...I WAS!!!
You should find what you need below....I can answer almost all of your CJ questions.
Imma slow hunt and pecker....got this to you fast as I could.
I CAN AND WILL ASSIST YOU FELLOW CJer.....I am here for your long haul!........Just "reply to question"
See my profile and other CJ 5 and CJ 7 answers I have given. The CJ 5 and CJ 7 Forums may provide you with additional info about your Jeep!
YES---You should have a reduced voltage there!
The only time you get FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to the coil is during "CRANKING"
During cranking...Full 12V + ......will override the RESISTANCE WIRE (reduced voltage) Which begins, basically, at the "ON" position of your Key/ Ignition and travels to your coil. This Resistance Wire feeds your coil a reduced voltage all the time, after you start up.
This TEMPORARY OVERRIDE occurs because "I" terminal on your SOLENOID is "HOT" only while cranking...it dies off when you release the key.....this action gives a better "Jolt of Juice". to the coil..while the Starter is Robbing power
"I" terminal is a direct feed to the coil (full battery voltage).....only momentarily....only till you crank up.
Your Ignition system does not need "FULL JUICE" to run it....On older stuff, Such as My '46 Willys, this prolongs Points' Life.
After Mr. Jeep Starts and you release the key...He reverts back to the reduced voltage.
Your "Built In" resistance wire takes the place of a COMMON/ OLD STYLE Ceramic Resistor.
NOW, are we having issues or troubles because of this, or are you just concerned because it "Just did not make sense"?
Give me something Challanging!
I can help you with MOST ANY CJ ISSUE
Seriously, I am a member like you...I try to give answers a 1st grader can understand! I will work with you on a more personal level, and I try not to throw out Super-Technical Mumbo-Jumbo....I also can share pics and explanations of MOSTLY MECHANICAL MODIFICATIONS (I invented or made, to make my Jeeps "user friendly")
Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.
If you are a CJ...Your stuff should be hooked up to the same terminals I show below....Pay attention to "S" and Battery Cable....They should be side by side
"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY
1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY
2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR
3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR
4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)
5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"
THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").
WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.
THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.
6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.
7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )
(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.
IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND
Please respond...Read my profile...Did I misunderstand your question?
Wednesday, September 1st, 2010 AT 5:11 PM