1982 Jeep CJ5 Battery drain

Tiny
CMHENRY
  • MEMBER
  • 1982 JEEP CJ5
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 160,000 MILES
My jeep will have a dead battery if it sits for more than a few days.

I have followed the procedure to isolate a battery drain. By placing a meter in line of the negative battery terminal and battery lead. I have a drain of.8 amps reading on the meter. There is no clock, radio, or other electronics installed in the jeep.
The 20 amp Fuse labeled Park-Tail was pulled and the amps drop to near 0.

I followed the wiring diagram in an attempt to identify where the amps are going.

I have disconnected at the different harnesses; all wires to the rear of the jeep (including brake, reverse, turn, running lights, fuel sending unit signal wire), same for front lights, and under-dash harness. Further I followed the wiring diagram through the fuse block to the alternator and disconnected it and the voltage regulator.
With all of the above done I do not see the.8amp draw change. It only changes to 0 when I remove the previously mentioned fuse.

Any ideas where this battery draw could be going?
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 1:57 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile and other CJ 5&7 answers I've given.

Not a mechanic, nor paid here. This is one of my hobbies.I am Very-Very-Very familiar with CJs. Never had nothing but, for primary transportation since I started driving in 1981. I do not take mine to a shop, except for my own.

I will assist all I can and may be able send pics--If I am able to find your need. My neighbor has a CJ 7 too, I have took pics of his for some answers.

Sounds like your tracing is going well, I have several diagrams that I have/ or will have traced out using COLORED Pens (too EZ to get confused with multiple lines running parallel then doing a 90, when in black and white)

I have done this to all but 2 diagrams---the one you need ('82-'86) and '72-'73

I will start immediatly on '82-'86---with your circuit 1st!

Just wondering? Could it be your COMPUTER drawing? (Passenger side behind dash)

Distributor or Ignition module?

Let me know whats going on and I will locate my pens and start.

Please Respond

The Medic
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
CMHENRY
  • MEMBER
Thank you for your reply,
I have not checked the computer (actually not sure where behind dash it would be found).
This is a CJ5 with the 151 4 cylinder. Year 82.

Nor have I checked the ignition module or distributor.

My big confusion is how would the computer or ignition play a role through a Fuse (Park-tail)?

I figured the non fused portion of the electrical system had inline fuseable links?

Why would one of these systems under the hood be in play through the Park-Tail fuse?
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 4:39 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Well, we're gonna find out shortly. Just found some pens---actually markers---could not find my GEL Pens.

Wild things can happen, like Turn signal "Brass Dust" from the contacts within, can sorta "short" stuff. I had 1 faint turn signal indicator that stayed on 24-7 (really faint) Worried me to death!

Try your signals in different positions, even your hazards (off-on, 5 or so times to "Clear possible debris". See if draw changes.

Come back with good news of finding source!

I'm drawing lines now!

The Medic
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 4:52 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Try the same with the light switch (all positions), it is common to Park and Tail lights----Even twist the Knob (dash dimmer) and Click it [full CW, unclick CCW? Don't remember which way] This is the Dome or interior floor light position (even if yours did not come with this feature)
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 5:08 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Ok Boss. Have done my research, got the diagram traced out. Disregard the distributor, ignition module, turn signal switch and computer.

These are my conclusions:

1) The entire system, park lights and taillights, includes side-markers and dash illumination. Unless you have added something.

2) None of the above WORK AT ALL--UNLESS the LIGHT SWITCH IS ON "PARK" position---or---in the "HEADLIGHT" position.

3) Headlights (along with the dimmer) and park lights/ taillights ARE NOT CONNECTED AT ALL. But share the Light switch

4) The only way you are drawing power there (at that fuse) Is from the FUSE to the Light Switch (or further along, what the switch controls. BEAR WITH ME, IT GETS A LITTLE BETTER!

5) My conclusion is : YOUR LIGHT SWITCH IS MUFFED.

It is, like I said before, Metallic shavings from use or similar, are "Shorting something ON" (in the switch) like the tailights and parklights and markers with very low voltage (cannot see lights) or maybe doing it to the dash lights.

6) I see no other answer, Nothing should be on with the light switch off. Unless you are robbing power between the fuse and the switch. (Doubtful)

7) Bet you a cup of coffee, a new switch will fix you (provided there is no wild modifications to the wiring)

8) Sad thing is, I have 2 Good Used ones that could be used for test dummies! If only you were local.

Sorry! Looking at $25-$40 for a new one, best I can remember.

Remember, the knob and stem must be removed to unscrew the inner bushing (use small needle-nose pliers, spead open on the bushing)

Remember there is a small button (behind dash on the switch body) that will release the stem.

You must reuse the knob, stem, and the bushing on the new switch.

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The Medic
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
CMHENRY
  • MEMBER
Thank you for your advice.
I will be pulling the switch today and see what change there may be in the amp draw. I did this several weeks ago and think it did not make a difference. Maybe the plug into the switch could be at fault, or a short. I will get out there and see what I can come up with.
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Monday, August 23rd, 2010 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Try this, till I get back from Paps. Remove wires (accessories) off of solenoid (pos battery cable post, on the solenoid), till you find lights. May be able to start your search under the hood. Before you are Crammed under the dash!

The Medic
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Monday, August 23rd, 2010 AT 9:47 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK, Boss, thanks for being patient

Looking at my wiring diagrams

Light switch shares "POWER INCOMING TO IT"

Before the switch is a splice----5---12volters come together (I will look for it on mine, but for now the actual splice location is unknown). Appears to be under dash!

They are as Follows (travel to, from splice):

1) the light switch

2) ignition switch

3) horn relay

4) backside of the fuse panel.(I'll investigate what happens or gets fed here)

5) From Splice to JCT BLOCK on firewall---Thru JCT BLOCK----to the solenoid (Constant 12V)

Are you a expert with the voltmeter/ continutity tests?

I am going to continue, so watch for another response soon, submitting this so you will have something to start on! Just got in.

The Medic
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Monday, August 23rd, 2010 AT 7:53 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
More Looking, Seems the Solenoid feeds the splice---splice goes 4 ways with only a Fusable Link at solenoid location.

Fusebox--feeds nearly every thing else

Ignition switch

Light switch

Horn relay

I think you were on to something with the Tail-lights and park light circuitFrom the Fusebox/ fed by the splice via the solenoid. Really the HEADLIGHTS ONLY are fed by the power going to the light switch. From headlight switch to the dimmer switch to the headlights (and of course your high beam indicator on the dash)

There are 2 circuits to the HEADLIGHT SWITCH.1st is headlights protected by the fusable link at the solenoid (the splice circuit)

The other is the Park/ Tail lights/ sidemarkers coming thru a FUSE in the fusebox (the fuse box is fed from our same fusable splice, on the solenoid

Both circuits originate at the solenoid, protected by the same fusable link----just one hits the fusebox and divides up to Most everything else labeled in the fusbox

BUT EVEN STILL!---Headlight switch metal dust may be "shorting", rather be "Making a path" across the Park/ Tail light CONTACTS within the switch. And maybe thats why when the fuse is out, That 2nd Circuit (traveling in the switch, w/ 1st circuit) DiesRemoving the Headlight switch CONNECTOR---WILL KILL BOTH CIRCUITS---AM I LOSING YOU? (With the multiple things occurring in the switch?)

On the solenoid, from what I can see, one other wire goes to the alternator----so the one we are dealing with feeds the entire Jeep

Moral of my story

Eliminate Horn Relay

and Ignition Switch

and Light Switch

NEW DISCOVERY---Manifold heater relay on '82-'86 is spliced in before the splice we have discussed/ looks like under the hood

All thats left is everything fed by the fusebox

Your diagram is much harder to read than my '77. Most everything is the same, just a few extra wild things on yours!

Oh Yeah, thanks for the inquiry and sending your Email Address. You will have my Mods within 20-60 minutes, from the time I submit them (10 min max)

They are pretty informative and good, Remember Double Click the 1st pic in each album. Center the enlarged pic so that you can read the caption at bottom. And be able to click "next" at the top. Something to do with "Library", will get you to the next album(s).

Respond with your findings

The Medic
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Monday, August 23rd, 2010 AT 8:50 PM

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