1996 Jeep Cherokee Wont Start

Tiny
CSAXTON
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 JEEP CHEROKEE
1996 Jeep Cherokee V12 200000 miles

Everything else works fine, but after iget done driving and turn off the engine, I try to turn it on again and it wont start. The battery turns on but it wont turn over. It doesnt click or make any noise, it just doesnt start. If you wait for like 10 mins or more, it varies, it will turn on again and is perfectly fine. I dont really know what the problem is at all. Any Idead on what might be wrong/
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Thursday, March 25th, 2010 AT 11:40 AM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile. Saw it was taking you a while for an answer, so I jumped in.

Follow POS battery cable to find this. Yours may not look like this.

I am not familiar with your rig, but can help you check and test for, at minimum, what direction to search in.

1st lets take every mechanical joint loose on BATT CLAMPS / CLAMPS TO CABLES / SOLINOID / GROUND to engine/frame.

TEST---WHEN IT WON'T TURN OVERRemove Wire "5 (five)", Test for 12VOLTS (on wire) , WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" POSITION.....this will let us know that the 12V signal is coming to the solinoid, to ACTIVATE IT......if no 12V, something is wrong toward key,

If you get signal----check solinoid ground (7)

Check for clean/ tight connections.

Temperature may be affecting SOLINOID/ Brushes in starter/ cable to clamps/ clamps to posts.

MAYBE BAD SOLINOID or STARTER.

Tested for FREE at Autozone or Advance Auto.

SEE PICS below, that I made, may help you in function and testing of EACH wire and lug.

Please let me know how you fare, may can still assist you.

Love, Turddog


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCESSORIES/ "LOOKS"., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.
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Thursday, March 25th, 2010 AT 7:25 PM

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