This is toughy. I am assuming the battery goes dead after sitting like over night. This is a process of elimination and takes time. First look for any aftermarket equipment that has been installed and disconnect the power to it. Let the vehicle sit for the normal amount of time it takes to go dead. If it starts, you have narrowed your problem to something you have disconnected. If everything is factory installed, or the battery is again dead, we go to step 2. Pull the fuses on everything that has a memory ie. Clock, ECU, sentry system, remote starter, GPS system, radio, anything that has a constant battery draw. Even though the load is constant, they shouldn't kill a battery except over a long period of time, but they will interfer with your next test. Next, being sure you have eliminated everything with a constant draw, disconnect the negative battery cable. Install a regular 12 volt test light between the negative cable and the negative post. If the tester lights dimly you still have a "memory" load of some kind. You can try to find it by pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out. More than likely the light will be bright indicating a full voltage drain. This is what is killing your battery. Now, start pulling fuses one at a time until the light either goes out or goes dim keeping track of which fuse goes where. This fuse is the circuit that is draining your battery. Leave it out. Now, put the pulled fuses back in the same order they came out. If the light goes back to full bright as you are replacing the fuses, you have another major draw and should be checked out. When you find the problem, you will be suprised as to what it is. I always have been. Hope this helps. NOTE. Be sure your test light is a regular 12 volt automotive incandesent bulb, not a neon or LED. They won't give you the bright to dim differential you need.
Sunday, September 28th, 2008 AT 8:21 PM