1997 Isuzu Trooper Stopped Running-Won't
Hi, thank you for the reply. Turns out it was not the fuse, not the relays, not a lot of what would normally be gone after. What I dd find by researching for hours on the net and piecing bits and pieces of info together is that when you start to see your dash lights light for no reason because the car seems to be running fine, it is not, that is some of your warning signs to what is to come. When you see your green four wheel light up on the dash and stay on and you then start losing use of none necessary to the running of the car items like radio, a/c etc, that is your indicator that it is your alternator is on its way.
So I replaced that, ran it once and it stopped running. Then I got stuck at the gas station and found out that that little bit of pegging up and down and then pegged to the bottom of nothing that the oil gauge was doing just briefly before it stopped working is also tied into this not starting. Honda did it as a safety fault protector and it stops your fuel pump from engaging and therefore you have no gas and it also engages your Anti-Theft System (more of your safety fault protector) so you cannot start. So I replaced the Oil Pressure switch to see if it was the $15.00 part or if I was going to end up paying for the $100.00+ part which is the Oil Pressure Sensor (sending unit). My luck it turns out it was both.
Then it still did not start so I got to replace the starter. Starts like a charm now. Had it been only the Anti-Theft System messing up or kickin in I would not have even got the one click of the solenoid when turning the ignition key. Tapping the starter (if you have one of the newer magnet one's do not tap the starter of you can wreck the whole starter, and I am so lucky to now have one of these, only good thing is it came with a two year warranty by NSA and bought from carpartswarehouse. Com for $155.28 brand new including shipping) did nothing to see if it would free it up if it had stuck. Crossing the starter posts did nothing either, so by-passing the solenoid was not it either. Bench test read fine, problem is that with these vehicles, they can bench test fine and under a load of starting and such they are dead and that is what it turns out it was. So, I also find out through all of this that due to the marvelous way engineers make cars today with relay this and sensor that and this needs this to run that and if one is out of whack then it can take the rest in line out along with it and that is what had happened to mine.
For those who need a bit of help in locating what part is what and if it goes to your vehicle or not go to:
myisuzuparts. Com When using this site if you want specific to your vehicle parts then punch in the last nine (9) digits of your (V.I.N.) Vehicle Identification Number at the top right of the page and more specific info input on the next page to the bottom left, that is, if they did not change anything of how it works.
There is a possibility that the site is closing down so if you do not want that to happen let Isuzu know it by emailing them or writing them the old fashioned way- with paper and pen. Honda also has a U.S.A. Representative in California called Isuzu America and if you do a search on it you will pull up the name, number and more and there is a super nice guy named Jim I spoke to at this office and he is the one who told me of the safety fault thing. If you have questions ask away and I am sure if he can help he will. Jim also knows a fair priced dealer in American Forks, forget the state, that you may want to ask about too for parts. I have found you have to shop around as one has this and one has that cheaper and it is all the same part. The rest I found on the net by piecing what others said together to come up with the fix for mine.
Be aware they say they no longer make Isuzu parts, well that may be true for here in America, but they certainly do still make the parts in Japan. Another helpful bit of info I found is that the Acura SLX is comparable in many /waysparts to the Trooper, you just have to know which parts can crossover. Some of that Acura you can find on the site mentioned above. And some Chevy Blazer parts also fit. There is another Chevy that works for it also, but can't think of it right now.
Also, when your motor dies and you do not want to dump the whole vehicle, then consider a diesel if you know someone who can do it or if you do Remove & Replace yourself and save money in more ways than one and still keep your vehicle you like so much. Diesel motors are cheaper to buy for these most of the time and well worth checking out.
Don't want to get sucked in for hundreds that many dealers and Sears and the like try to tell you you have to do when your muffler needs replacing, then do yourself a $35.00 favor and go to PepBoys or the like and get a Thrush muffler as long as it is the same size and put it on like I did and my vehicle now runs great. No thinks to the dealer who want $1133.00 and Sears who wanted over $400.00. When I asked why they could not put on what was on it already (not the original as it was) they said the book calls for the OEM replacement, but I told them I did not want the replacement but one like what was on it. No can do. So I left and got what I wanted and knew would run just as well anyway and it does work just fine with a huge dollar difference.
Most of the repairs on these cars is knowing what to do and not do and who has what the cheapest. I did not say cheap parts I said cheapest price for the same item. I have called around for all the parts put in and the price gaps are just wild and varied, so to me that is just gouging due to they figure you are at their mercy of not being able to get the parts so they jack the pricke through the roof. When they find you have alternative means, maybe then they will feel the pinch and bring the prices back down to normal. Stores to buy parts from: NAPA Auto Stores, AutoZone (not always the cheapest), carpartswarehouse. Com, PepBoys. I'm sure there are others in your area if you do not have these that are comparable.
Hope this is of help to anyone in the same position I was in. Not a nice place to be Almost forgot, if you think it may be your anti-Lock System, try this. Pull the key from ignition open vehicle door and push button to lock doors, then close door. Look for the Anti-Theft System red light flash and then put your key back into the door turning the key to the right only and unlock the door and now try starting again. This has worked for me as well as one time of pulling the e-brake and then putting it back to position. Don't know what gives with this systems or these vehicles, but if it works it saves a lot of stress.
Good luck to all who follow! Have a great fall.
Sunday, September 20th, 2009 AT 9:26 PM
