Reduced power light

Tiny
MTNBIKER
  • 2001 ISUZU RODEO

Engine Performance problem
2001 Isuzu Rodeo Question 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 79000 miles

I get a check engine-reduced power lights after engine start. It seems to only happen when temperatures are 40 degrees or lower. The engine surges when idling. It will not go over 20 mph if I try to drive it. I have seen quite a few posts like thbi one but no real solutions. Please help.

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Monday, November 8th, 2010 AT 1:09 PM

29 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
  • 31,085 POSTS

The first thing you need to do is go to a auto part's store and have the code's read and let me know what the code numbers are.

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Monday, November 8th, 2010 AT 4:22 PM
Tiny
MTNBIKER
  • MEMBER

Here are the codes I get:
P1515 TP Sensor to MAF Sensor correlation
P1125 Electronic Throttle Control Limit performance mode.
P1295 Electronic Throttle Control -Power management mode.

I am assuming these codes lead me to several things: Mass Air flow sensor, Throttle position sensor and possibly the EGR Valve. I am not sure what to do or where to go from there.

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Monday, November 8th, 2010 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
  • 31,085 POSTS

It looks like you have a throttle circuit issue here is the trouble tree's for those three code's there for the 3.2 or the 3.5L engine's.I also need to know if you have the 3.2L or the 3.5L engine?

Please let us know what happens so it will help others.

Cheers.

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Wednesday, November 10th, 2010 AT 12:39 PM
Tiny
MTNBIKER
  • MEMBER

Thank you for the info! I am working the trouble tree's right now. I will let you know how it comes out. The engine is a 3.2L.

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Sunday, November 14th, 2010 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
M4RIS4
  • MEMBER

I'm having the same issue with my 2002 Isuzu Rodeo - reduced power light comes on with the check engine light only in cold weather (started this year a few weeks ago). Last year I replaced the TPS, but don't think that is the problem. My truck is the 3.2L model.

The codes are
P1125 Electronic Throttle Control Limit performance mode.
P1295 Electronic Throttle Control Power management mode.

Thanks.

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Wednesday, December 29th, 2010 AT 11:29 PM
Tiny
MTNBIKER
  • MEMBER

I followed the trouble tree. It pointed me to the TPS. I replaced it for about 80 bucks. That did the trick! I'm back up and running. Thank you for the help!

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Thursday, December 30th, 2010 AT 5:06 PM
Tiny
MEDICTECH
  • MEMBER

I'm having the same issue with the reduced power mode. I cleaned the maf sensor, replaced the fuel filter, and did what I could to clean the egr valve. That seemed to work for about a day and then it came back on.

Can anyone point me to it please?

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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
BILLTHURSTON
  • MEMBER

I just started getting this problem can someone send me the trouble shooting tree. Thanks. I have a 02 rodeo with a 3.2L

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Thursday, May 5th, 2016 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
KAELO
  • MEMBER

I have same problem. I have a 3.2 200o model isuzu rodeo.
If enter a porthole the reduce power light comes on and I cant accelerate. The car just refuses to rev. I have to off the engine for 15 seconds then on it again to gain a rev
can I get the trouble tree?

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Tuesday, September 5th, 2017 AT 7:41 AM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 10,866 POSTS

I have updated this post the trouble tree is now featured in the second post. Please check it out above

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
CHASNESS
  • 2001 ISUZU RODEO
  • 3.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES

Reduced power light came on and vehicle would not go more than thirty mph and laboring at that. Replaced MAF, Throttle body and accelerator pedal sensor. Maf new TB and APS were used parts. Everything worked fine forabout fifteen miles then same problems manifest. Help Cecil, Help, at my wits end (short journey lol). God Bless Chas

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
  • 49,803 POSTS

Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. also check for a vacuum leak.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS RENEE
  • ADMIN
  • 697 POSTS

Hi Chas,

If you decide you would like to conduct the scan yourself here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself, also I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning. Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHASNESS
  • MEMBER

Thanks for replies. Limped into shop they hooked up their Hi-tech "$20,000" machine now they tell me passenger side catalytic converter is shot and needs replacing? Thoughts? I was going to put in a universal since both sensors are in pipe above and below catalytic converter. Thoughts?

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
  • 49,803 POSTS

Universal will work but not as long as original equipment or one made for your car. Was it a 430 code?

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
YAHAIRAT
  • 2001 ISUZU RODEO
  • 3.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES

The reduce power light came on while driving in Kissimmee, Florida. Temperature here is not cold, and now the truck wont start. It has done this in the past but goes away and does not come back for a few moths. Having to pay a tow truck almost $200 to bring back home, because the truck will not start up this time. As if the battery was dead or something.
In the past when it has done this, the truck would not turn off completely, but when trying to hit the gas, no matter how much, it would not go faster than 5-10 miles. Tried to crank, but would not do anything. How can I fix the issue? Please help!

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 41,940 POSTS

There is no such thing as reduce power light. That should be the Check Engine Light or Malfunction Indicator Light.

A fault has been detected by the engine management system and the first thing you need to do is to retrieve the trouble code to find out what it says.

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
YAHAIRAT
  • MEMBER

To the left of the A/T Oil Temp light it has the Reduced Speed light, it is on. The car will turn on and then turn off again. After that it won't turn back on. I have to wait at least an hour or two to try and turn on again. I am not able to take to scan, but will take all the help I can to fix myself.

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 41,940 POSTS

When the engine could not be started, you need to find out what is missing. click the link below to find out how.

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHARDWELLS
  • 2001 ISUZU RODEO
  • 129,000 MILES

Hello I have a good one for you. A Rodeo was brought into the shop backfiring, no power, ck engine light on. I do not have the list of DTC s with me right now but it had 5 DTC for the ETC and a couple for the Ion module. Now with a little investigation we found bank 2, the even bank was dead. We have everything there that is needed to run an engine. Spark, fuel, compression (spark plugs extremely fouled. I put new plugs in by the way. Anyways my intuition said it was a timing issue. After prying some info from the customer I found out he had the vehicle in a shop previously. He took it in for the complaint of uncontrolled acceleration. This shop apparently said a new timing belt and water pump would be the cure. ( Why, I have no idea.) The customer than said that is when it started to run so bad. Well I thought this confirmed my intuition on the timing issue. I got permission to check to see if the timing belt was installed correctly even though it is pain. We ripped her apart and found the marks were way off. I dont know how it ran. Well we set everything to the correct marks, in so we thought, put it back together and ran terrible. So I tore it back down and the marks were way off again. What the hell. So we reset it again to the correct marks according to All Data. Put her back together, this time she won't run at all. By this time we are pretty frustrated. I sounded like it was 180 off so we tear it down again and sure enough it was. I look on Mitchell in which they say you have to time the cams by turning the cams till it springs back at the 12:00 position. We did this. After this we spun the motor by hand and then realized you must turn the crank four times around in order to get the camshaft marks to line up. Is this because there is 3 gears under the valve cover for the dual cams? By the way this is the 3.2 motor. Well I figured the marks are lining up anyway so that should be good. But still to no avail, bank 2 is dead. So I am now thinking maybe, broken camshaft. I take a boroscope to see if the valves are opening, yes they are. What about the catalytic converter. Pull the O2 out to see if there is any kind of change. None what so ever. So again we are scratching our heads. We decide to look at the DTC s again. At this point it only throwing a random misfire code. Has not thrown any of the ETC codes again. I do know when I originally investigated these codes it said it would go into limp mode or power loss mode. But I dismissed it because I cleared it and it has not come back. Is it possible that this thing is in limp in mode and killing this bank of cylinders. Ok here is the next thing, she is still throwing the code for the Ion module after driving the vehicle. We are now thinking that she is firing the spark at the wrong time for that bank. Will that ion module do that? We did the reference voltage checks, open and short checks between the Ion module and ECM. All that is ok. Then it had the famous line, try replacing the ECM with known good component. Yeah right. I was also thinking crank sensor but kind of hard to get too. At the same time I figure it would not make one bank go dead and the other just fine. Some other notes, we checked fuel pressure checked Injector wave forms, injector fuel drop test, tried a Maf sensor for the hell of it. Basically we are back at square one and I am still thinking timing issue, ion module or ECM. Will the Etc cause this? If you have any thoughts or answers it would be much appreciated. Thanks

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)

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