2004 Hyundai Tiburon hub assembly replacement question

Tiny
JLAIOLA
  • 2004 HYUNDAI TIBURON

Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
2004 Hyundai Tiburon 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 130000 miles

good afternoon, I'm terribly to sorry to bother you as I know your busy.
my question is that I just replaced my passenger rear hub assembly and the entire wheel still has wobbling play in it, as the components are tight and I'm just wanting to find out what mistake I made.
once again thank you for your time.

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Monday, August 17th, 2009 AT 3:21 AM

12 Replies

Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER

Is the wheel bent? If you replaced the hub assembly it should spin true if the rim is ok.

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Monday, August 17th, 2009 AT 11:03 AM
Tiny
JLAIOLA
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The wheel seems to be in good condition, although not perfect, the good part is that the winding noise has stopped, but even after I put the new hub assembly on the entire wheel has about a quarter inch or more of play in it, and I was wondering if maybe I could put another (spacer washer) on the nuckle to stop it from haveing the play in it.

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Tuesday, August 18th, 2009 AT 4:13 AM
Tiny
JLAIOLA
  • MEMBER

I was also wondering if its better to use a neumatic gun for tightening the hub nut instead of wrenching it on there by hand, because this particular model does not come with a cotter pin

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Tuesday, August 18th, 2009 AT 4:15 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER

If it has that much play in it, there is either something wrong or the nut isnt tight/seated. I cant find the torque spec for that nut, how tight did you torque it down? I would use hand tools to tighten it up, so you get afeel for how tight it is. Look at the suspension to be sure it isnt something else causing the play like a bad bushing

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Tuesday, August 18th, 2009 AT 7:42 AM
Tiny
JLAIOLA
  • MEMBER

I torqued it at about 80
but thank you I didnt think about the bushing,
do you think by adding an extra spacer washer in the hub before the nut gets on, that it might be a tighter fit?
Once again I really appreciate your time

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Wednesday, August 19th, 2009 AT 1:51 AM
Tiny
JACK42
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My pleasure, If the freeplay isnt correct when the nut is tightened, there is another issue. From what I can see in Mitchell that is a sealed bearing hub unit, once the nut is correctly torqued the pre-load should be good. If you can make it good with a washer, go for it, but I recommend finding out what is wrong and fixing it.

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Wednesday, August 19th, 2009 AT 7:45 AM
Tiny
JLAIOLA
  • MEMBER

Great I i'll go for it
my newest addition for the retry
is I went ahead and got ahold of another nut that is the same thread and slightly larger in girth, im going to make a new attempt on this tomorrow and hopefully it should be okay but I cant thank you enough for your help. This is a great website you operate.

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Saturday, August 22nd, 2009 AT 3:17 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER

Glad to be of assistance, and thank you.

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Saturday, August 22nd, 2009 AT 8:27 AM
Tiny
JLAIOLA
  • MEMBER

I have to tell you im very impressed with your website its very instructional, I currently work in a small repair shop and usually do the basics for auto and diesel repair, but my main question was I was considering going back to school to possibly get a master certification out of the business, do you have a recommendations as to what schools would be good to attend?

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Sunday, August 23rd, 2009 AT 2:16 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER

I would do research online. If you are looking to get a Master ASE Cert. You should go to their website to see what exactly they offer, the classes would be geared toward their program. Most things you learn in class will teach you principles of things and diagnostic skills, but honestly real world experience in the most valuable, and necessary to get a Master cert

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Sunday, August 23rd, 2009 AT 11:46 AM

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