2000 Hyundai Accent Engine will not Rev above 1200rpm then

Let's start by posting ALL the code numbers. We'll provide the proper diagnostic for each code. When you replaced the converter, did you make sure parts of it didn't clog the muffler? Does it seem to have normal exhaust back pressure?

Also, can you tell me all of the items the scanner came up with when you checked it?

If you would like, I'll try to help you. I read your original complaint and all the follow up complaints and details. OK. The car sat up for a while, and now it has NO power. You've done SOME work to it so let's do this. Clear ALL the codes and drive it. See what codes 'reset' so we'll know what HAS been taken care of and what HAS NOT. Then we'll start from scratch. No power could be caused be lack of fuel PRESSURE or fuel VOLUME. But we need a place to start. Drive it til it resets the check engine light and pull the codes and tell me what they are. I'll help you.

Ok, considering you can't drive it at all now and there's no codes setting, we'll have to start from scratch. First, let's make sure the timing belt is still in tact and turning the camshaft. You can pull the upper timing cover back a little bit to see the cam pulley. You may have to take a couple of small bolts out if it won't pull back far enough. Have someone spin it over while you watch the cam pulley. Is it turning? If not, the timing belt broke or came off for some reason. I'll be doing some research in the meantime because a lot of Hyundai's engines are 'interferrence' engines, meaning that if the timing belt breaks, lots of damage will occur when the valves hit the pistons. Chech that and get back with me. If all is well, in that department, we'll check fuel supply to the injectors and the operation of the injectors. From your original posts, it may be fuel related since it was severely lacking power. Fuel pressure, as well as fuel volume, or the lack thereof, will cause a dramatic loss in power. We'll figure it out.

Ok. Now. Do you have access to a 'noid light'? If not, don't worry, just use a regular test light. Unplug one of the fuel injectors. Turn the key ON. Connect the test light to 'ground' and probe the injector connector. One wire should light the test light. Does it? If so, connect the test light to BATT +(voltage) and probe the other wire. Have someone spin the motor while you're probing the other wire in the connector. Does the test light flash quickly? If not, the injectors are not 'pulsing'. If so, let me know and we'll go to the next step.