feels like ive got my foot on the brake

Hi dandandan182,

This happens when the brake booster push rod is adjusted out too far which does no allow the brake master to return fully holding the brakes on . To confirm the issue loosen the brake master mounting bolts 3 turns to see if the car starts to roll again, if so remove the master and adjust the booster push rod inward. Also a brake flex hose can come apart internally causing a short of check valve in the system but this is usually isolated to one brake either front or rear. It is possible the calipers are sticking due to the pistons seizing. Whether servicing of the calipers or replacement is required would depend on the piston condition. Did this occur only after repairs of the brake system or replacement of the brake pads?

Thank you for your reply!

Its was my booster rod adjustment, wond it in 2 turns the brakes work great

So i bought new break pads and calipers; i changed them out made sure to bleed the system out correctly and did a test one in my car. about a day later my brake caliper piston on the passenger side decides to start locking up on me. so i bled the system and got it home. The next day everything is fine and then all of a sudden the calipers want to lock up again to where i could not move the car at all. I was able to pop the bleeder valve open and barely made it home. Now i am stuck trying to figure out what to do and what is happening.

Hi,

If you open the bleeder and the brakes release, it sounds like the rubber brake hose to the caliper is bad. What happens is internally they break down. As a result, with the pressure of your foot, you can force fluid into the caliper. However, when you release the pedal, the caliper isn't strong enough to push the fluid back. As a result, the brake locks up or drags.

Am I correct in assuming when you open the bleeder, the brake releases? If so, replace that hose.

Here are the directions. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

___________________________________________________

2005 Honda Civic L4-1.7L SOHC
Procedures
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Hydraulic System Brake Hose/Line Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
Brake Hose Replacement

NOTE:
^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
^ Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent dripping, cover disconnected line joints with rags or shop towels.


pic 1


1. Replace the brake hose (A) if the hose is twisted, cracked, or if it leaks.
2. Disconnect the brake hose from the brake line (B) using a 10 mm flare-nut wrench (C).


pic 2


3. Remove the flange bolt (A), and remove the brake hose brackets from the damper.
4. Remove and discard the hose clip (B).
5. Remove the banjo bolt (C), and remove the brake hose from the caliper.


pic 3


6. Install the brake hose bracket (A) on the damper with the flange bolt (B) first, then connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt (C) and new sealing washers (D).


pic 4


7. Install the hose onto the hose bracket on the body with a new hose clip (A).
8. Connect the brake line to the brake hose.
9. After installing the brake hose, bleed the brake system.
10. Do the following checks:
^ Check the brake hose and line joint for leaks, and tighten if necessary.
^ Check the brake hoses for interference and twisting.

__________________________________

Let me know if this takes care of the problem. Also, if I am incorrect about it releasing when you open the bleeder, let me know that as well.

Take care,
Joe

the brake pedal has normal travel when car started. As the brake pedal is pushed a few times, there is less and less travel before the brakes engage. Then the brakes drag and eventually lock preventing the car from rolling. Front disks are hot, the rear drums are not.

Recently replaced the plastic plug in the brake pedal that the brake light switch engages. Did not tough any of the brake adjustments. Don't see how this would affect it, but it did start happening soon after.

So we can assume that the issue is with the front brakes locking up as they are hot. However, we cannot assume it is both front since the brakes will get hot when used so we need to lift the vehicle and pump the brakes to get them to lock and up then spin each wheel to see which are locked up.

This could be a couple things but the first and foremost are the master cylinder, calipers, or the rubber brake lines are swelling not allowing the caliper to release.

Let's lift the vehicle and find out which specific wheels this is and we can go from there. Thanks

It turned out that it was the brake light switch. When I reinstalled it, it was too far in towards the pedal. The brake pedal could not return all the way. Apparently this causes problems in the master cylinder.

The test was that i removed the switch and all the braking problems went away. None of the literature or manuals I found mentioned that it could be adjusted.

Thanks for your help!

That is great information and makes perfect sense but not something I would have jumped to unless you mentioned the brake lights were staying on. However, you most likely would not see that as you are driving and can't see them.

Thanks for the update. I am sure that info will help others. Thanks

Four cylinder two wheel drive manual.

This problem has been happening ever since i replaced the driver side caliper (about two months), shortly after that i bought the passenger side caliper (one month) thinking that was the problem. but no. recently i noticed the calipers were backwards, i asked for the left side caliper and got the right side caliper. so the bleeder valve was on the bottom. switched them around and it worked fine for a night and the next morning, i got a little cocky though and sure enough i was on the side of the highway for fifteen more minutes. so far i have wasted about an hour of my life sitting on the side of the road. Please help!
A day later after bleeding the brakes, this time it happened while i was driving, left home stopped at the end of my road, stopped at the next stop sign, drove about 20 km to Tim Horton's went through the drive threw with no problems, however 3 km down the road after leaving Tim's the wheel started shaking and it was obvious with letting off the gas and slowly stopping. i pulled into a carpool lot, shut it off and checked the cap, nothing, no trapped air so it has to be venting properly, the fluid was a little darker then when i put it in last night. Sat for twenty minutes started it up again, pedal was like a rock but they were free enough to drive back home, pulled out of the carpool got up to about 90 km and they freed up totally just after i passed Tim's again. the pedal went back its usual position, it still feels weird though and i have no ABS or CEL lights on on the dash.

Hi 2002civic1.7,

If the problem is occurring only on one wheel, then it could be the flexible hose that is faulty resulting int the caliper sticking. If both brakes are sticking, check the brake pedal free play. Insufficient free play would cause the calipers to seize up after travelling.

If you had replaced with used calipers, I would suggest servicing the caliper pistons, if it is dirty, it would stick and cause overheating which would seize the brakes.

hi KHLow2008 thanks for the reply, i really appreciate it.

i have replaced the calipers with a new/refurbished, i bought them from the parts store not a junkyard.

it seems to be only sticking on one side because one time the driver side was smoking and when i looked at the other side it was just really hot. i have a new hose coming in a few days i had to order it, be here Tuesday.

Yesterday i was working on it and when i went to bleed i noticed the "driver side" was sticking, so bad i could not turn the hub with my hand (i did this with the car off and pumped the brakes three or four times, until hard), as soon as i let the bleeder off the wheel frees up, the passenger side spins freely with pumping up the brakes then trying to turn it. so i am going say it is only the driver side that sticks, but when they stick both sides get really hot. so weird.

When checking this way should i drive until they stick then check the bleeder or did how i explained it work the same way?

Brake pedal free play? My pedal feels normal most of the time (three to four inches before they start grabbing) only when they start to stick the pedal becomes rock hard.

Would the pedal become hard with only one wheel sticking?

is there any kind of lube i can put on the piston or is the brake fluid enough?
when i had them off i pushed the brake pedal and they moved out about a 1/8"-1/4" and was sucked back in a few seconds later. all slider pins are freely moving, all pads are freely moving. piston moves back when putting new pads on without touching the bleeder to relieve any pressure.

i also noticed that when i put the reservoir cap on the rubber diaphragm, there is always a flap of rubber that hangs out on one side, kind of like the rubber is to big for the cap/hole.

i will try the new hose! there are a couple chaff marks on it from dropping it (when i have them off i rest them on top of the rotor) a couple times they have fell off (now i just leave one bolt loose and flip them up). thank you for you advice! :)

Hi 2002civic1.7,

I have the same exact car a 2002 1.7L Civic and have the same problems right now that you do. I was wondering if you ever figured out the problem. This has been happening for months and put six new calipers, rotors, and brake pads in since then. A few days ago i put in new Calipers with the brake mounting brackets too (because I thought I warped my old ones from the heat). I got three miles and brake pedal got rock hard again and brakes were sticking, by the time i got it home smoke was coming out on each side. Most of the time it has been the driver side that has been sticking but every now and then both will. I also tried replacing both the flexible brake hoses and it did nothing. My master cylinder cap is also the same as yours its ripped and seems like the brake fluid made it swell up bigger so it does not fit inside all the way anymore. I was thinking of replacing the master cylinder now to see if that works. But i feel like driving it off a cliff more than anything.

Thanks,
John

I have read alot on this topic I have the same problem with my 2002 Civic, and I found the problem it is not the caliper or booster or adjust any screw, follow the line that comes out the master cylinder that connect in to a single block that spread to all wheels that is your problem. The liquid goes in to the caliper cause of the pressure but when you release the pedal that part is not allowing the fluid to returned back and that is why the brake never release the rotors.

I have read all your guys post,and after a 10-15 minute ride my front brakes would start to drag. And if you let the car set for an hour or so it was good to go for another 10-15 min. You could tell it was the front brakes because the front wheels were smoking hot.anyway after replacing the front calipers,pads,brake booster,master cylinder, flexible rubber houses,and hard lines. It was the ABS module I got second hand for 70 dollars!!!! Yes hope this helps

Half of what you replaced won't cause locking brakes. If the problem is still there, come back here and we'll figure it out.

I have read alot on this topic I have the same problem with my 2002 civic, and I found the problem it' s not the caliper or booster or adust any screw, follow the line that comes out the master cylinder that conecta in to a single Block that spread to all wheels that' s your problem. The liquid goes in to the caliper cause of the pressure but when you release the pedal that part is not allowing the fluid to returned back and that' s why the brake never release the rotors

Thanks for the information. You should be able to verify this by opening a bleeder screw and seeing a little fluid squirt out. A restricted rubber flex hose is more common, but with that, the brake would not release if you loosened the steel line at that combination valve.

My brakes are locking up on me. On and off. I have done replaced the rotors, calipers, a bad brake line as well as master brake cylinder. Even the new brakes and bled them several times. What is happening is after awhile of driving, I will notice the car accelerating slower as well as coming to a stop when I have the car in neutral. Then it tends to stay locked n the car won't move. After awhile it releases and everything is fine again. Today after putting on new calipers again because of some faulty ones I bought I test drove it again and the same thing happen again. However, note that with brakes locking and feeling stiff I made an attempt to pull the pedal up with my foot. I don't know what happen but they were freed. I didn't wanna risk taking my car to my home which is a small town over but I'm just curious what this could be because it had been an expensive problem throughout this last week. Is it my pedal? A line? The proportional valve? What could be causing my brakes to lock up randomly. Unfortunately my car doesn't have ABS either.

you may have to shorten the pedal to the master cylinder as it may not be coming back all the way. see pic brake pedal height must be 6.34inches. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

We put a new master cylinder and brake booster into this car. I did nothing to the rod that inserts into the master. I did see if I could turn it and it seemed tight. When the master mounted I did not get a sense that the rod was bottoming out against the masters piston. The front brakes are applying to the degree that they are getting hot. Other times while driving it doesn't bother.

Did this problem show up for the first time after the new master cylinder was installed? If it did, next time the brakes are dragging, loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster just enough to let the master cylinder be pulled forward about 1/16". If that lets the brakes release, shorten the push rod in the front of the booster. Most imports have adjustable push rods to account for production tolerances, including for the master cylinder.

1999 Honda Civic mileage: 130,000. I've been having trouble with my brake system. I had the booster and master cylinder replaced last Monday, and the new booster went out on Thursday. My brakes locked up and started smoking, fried the front brakes altogether. Do I need to try another mechanic? How common is it to get a faulty booster?

We are sorry to hear you are getting the run-a-round with your car repairs. Faulty power brake boosters are not common but it is possible to get one.

Sounds like the adjustment rod between the master and booster is mis-adjusted. This will cause the front brakes to "drag", without even touching the brake pedal, and burn them up.

My passenger side rear wheel tire is stuck. I have had no problems like this since I have owned the vehicle. Today I pulled into work pulled the E-brake and when I tried to leave a few hours later the tire was stuck. The other rear wheel still moves. The E-brake still pulls and releases the same as before and I still have good pressure in the break system. I have also taken off the tire to tap the wheel drum in hopes of loosening whatever is preventing it from moving. Please let me know your suggestions as well as a reasonable idea of how much it might cost to fix

Thanks,

A frustrated driver

Hi there,

This may be a seized cable holding on the brake, you will have to check to see if the hand brake lever at the rear of the brake backing plate is free to move, you should be able to get some movement by hand, if not try and u do the clip holding the cable end to the lever, it may be tight if there is pressure on it, make sure the wheels are chocked so the car wont move if the brake releases, check this out.

Mark (mhpautos)

The problem with my vehicle is that t every time i am running my car and i hit the brakes, after a while the front wheel tends to lock up. I have changed a new hose and i still have the problem. I even had the master cylinder cleaned and it runs for a while, but it still locks the tires.

Hello,

OK, you changed the brake hose, did you change the brake caliper?

Check the brake pads for even wear, if one area is lower than another that is a good indication of a caliper sticking at times. Another possibility is the brake master cylinder leaking into the brake booster, to check this you will need to remove the master cylinder.

Hope this helps

Mark

My front brakes are slowly seizing up and my brake pedal is getting tighter. I changed my master cylinder and a leaking hose and caliper. drives okay when first started but driving a few miles and my brakes start getting tighter and the pedal is hard by the time I get home they are smoking turn off the car for a while and they are better. at the start pedal is almost to the floor, bled thoroughly after changing master cylinder and caliper. Help!

If both front brakes are locking up, check the adjustment of the brake light switch to be sure it is not holding the brake pedal down a little. If only one is getting hot, stop on a slight incline, place the transmission in "neutral", place a block about a foot downhill of one tire, then open the hydraulic system in various places to see what makes that brake release. You can start at the steel line at the master cylinder, or with the bleeder screw on that caliper. Once we know what you can open and the brake does not release, we can figure out what is causing the restriction and blocking the fluid from releasing back to the master cylinder.