2002 Honda Civic 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive 112000 miles
After replacing the alternator my car will not stay running. It will crank, start and run for 2 seconds, then immediately sputter and stall. I disconnected the Crank Position Sensor and it starts and runs (roughly, but well enough to relocate the car). Re-connecting the CkPS resulted in non-running. Having a new CkPS plugged in to the harness but not installed allows the car to run (roughly), but installing it in position reverts the car back to non-running. Note: while removing old alternator, the wire inadvertently sparked, blowing the 80 amp battery fuse (or also something else?) And the car sat for 2 days with battery disconnected. Any ideas?
Re fit the Cps and attempt a start, then do a scan and advise of any unresolved fault codes, start here.
August, 2, 2010 AT 5:47 PM
The CPS has been reconnected several times attempts, still the car starts and stalls, no codes are present unless I disconnect the CPS, this is the only way to get the car to run.
August, 3, 2010 AT 4:21 AM
When you did the alternator did you have the battery disconnected, and if not did anything arc or spark?
August, 3, 2010 AT 4:45 PM
Yes, the battery cable was not disconnected, however the key was not in the ignition. While removing the alternator, the 12V lead had arced against the bracket causing the 80 amp fuse to blow, which I explained in my first post. I replaced the fuse and checked all the others.
August, 3, 2010 AT 9:34 PM
Yes, I did rear that, late night sorry, well I am wondering if any other damage was done, the 80 Amp fuse will take a fair load before is blows, I am wondering if you may have spiked the ECU, the symptoms you have are a bit strange, I do think something else has been damaged, I think getting the ECU bench tested or trying a good known one to see if that helps at all.
August, 4, 2010 AT 5:38 AM
I agree, the issue I'm having seems to be unusual, especially after replacing an alternator, even with blowing the fuse, the rest of the system should be protected. I was hoping for more than the answer you gave. I agree something else has to be damaged. To test another ECU I would also need the set of keys it came with as the ECU is chipped to the ignition keys. More so I was hoping for some type of schematic of the pin-outs that go to the crank sensor or possibly the immobilizer system. Do you have access to them?