1997 Honda Civic O2 censor

Tiny
SICWITHHATE
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 14,500 MILES
1997 honda civic check engine light came on, scanned it, came up that it was the second censor, so I replaced the censor, when I got the codes erased the check engine light came on within three seconds of the car being started.
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Tuesday, February 10th, 2009 AT 4:08 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • EXPERT
What exactly is the code?

You may have an open or shorted wire in the circuit, did you check the wiring going to the sensor?
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Tuesday, February 10th, 2009 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
SICWITHHATE
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Heater sensor 1/2 is the code.I talked to a few people and they said it may be a bad cat converter.I have no clue. My inspection is way past due and I live in new york so they are kind of strict
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Tuesday, February 10th, 2009 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MEMBER
What my colleague asked for is the ACTUAL CODE NUMBER, not just description. But, if I understand your description correctly, you said Heater Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2. And you were told it was the cat converter.

Those people are wrong. It has something to do with your rear O2 sensor harness going back to the ECM. Your O2 sensor grounds at the ECM, and that circuit is bad. So, go under the car and make sure that the harness is connected tight, and follow the wires as much as you can to make sure that it is not cut, frayed, etc.

But we still need the actual code numbers to be accurately sure.
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Wednesday, February 11th, 2009 AT 2:42 AM
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • EXPERT
Like Zackman said. It sounds like you were told it was Bank 1 Sensor 2, which is your post-catalytic oxygen sensor.

However, we need the code number to help you determine what is going.

If it is the heater code for your secondary o2 we can post up how to test the wiring for the heater circuit if you indeed did replace the proper o2.
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Wednesday, February 11th, 2009 AT 5:41 PM
Tiny
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The guy that ran the codes on my car lives about 30 miles away and is not able to test my car, he also ran a test on another car so the my codes were not stored. Best he could give me was p0. Sorry.I talked to a mechanic I work with and he said it may be the wiring as well so im getting a voltage tester to test the wiring harness any suggestions on which wires to test. And if it is a wiring problem how much of a pain will it be to locate the bad wire?
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Wednesday, February 11th, 2009 AT 8:24 PM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MEMBER


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_97civicb1s2_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_97civich02s_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_97civicecm_1.jpg



Check continuity on all highlighted circuits. Repair any open circuit. If all circuits are good, replace the O2 sensor. It can be a major PITA to find bad wire. Just imagine you have to connect one end at the O2 sensor connector (under the car) and the other probe in the kick panel. Once you know the bad circuit to repair, ten you have to literally trace the wires. But it can be fun-filled, knowledge-seeking adventure.

Do you have an Autozone close by? They can can scan your ECM for free..
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Wednesday, February 11th, 2009 AT 11:47 PM
Tiny
SICWITHHATE
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I do have an autozone nearby. Im getting a voltage tester today so let the fun begin.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2009 AT 3:55 AM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
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Let us know what you find out.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2009 AT 8:54 PM
Tiny
SICWITHHATE
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I should be getting a voltage tester tomorrow. How do I go about testing the wires?
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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 3:34 PM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MEMBER
Unplug your rear O2 sensor (after the cat). Also unplug the corresponding connector plug on the PCM. CAUTION: Only unplug one harness at any one time. We are not testing the O2 sensor or the PCM, rather the wiring harness itself. So do not hook up the probes to the O2 sensor or PCM sides. Both probes have to be attached to the wiring harness plug.

Set your multimeter to resistance (ohm). Place one test lead to the connector end (at PCM) and the other at the O2 sensor.

1. PCM connector A5 (BLUE) and sensor side (black/white) wire.
2. PCM connector D13 (GREEN) and sensor side either green/black or red/yellow.
3. PCM connector D14 (RED) and sensor side white/red.

All 3 tests should result in 0 ohm reading. If you have any other number, that wire is bad.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_97civicecm_2.jpg

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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
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Thank you very much. Id be lost without this information
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Saturday, February 14th, 2009 AT 1:33 AM
Tiny
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What I have is a GB Instruments GDT-11 so I can not test the ohm of the wires due to the fact that the wires on my tester are not long enough so I need an alternate way of testing the wire harness. Which wires do I test and what should they read?
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Saturday, February 14th, 2009 AT 2:21 PM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
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http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_gbt11_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_85654007_1.jpg



Attach extension wires such as Dorman 85654 to your test leads. Just make sure that they don't touch any metal of the car. "Zero" ohm means continuous wiring, "infinity" means bad or broken wiring.
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Monday, February 16th, 2009 AT 9:07 PM
Tiny
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Finally gave up. Sent it to the garage. Got a call back saying it may be the ecm. So we'll see
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Wednesday, February 18th, 2009 AT 3:38 PM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
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Sorry I couldn't be more of help. But just ask them to test the circuit before replacing the ECM.
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Thursday, February 19th, 2009 AT 10:46 PM

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