IGNITION COIL?

Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
  • HONDA ACCORD
Hi all, Gus here from ontario.I have a 94 honda accord lx 2dr. New distributor, new wires, plugs, recent fuel filter, starter, rad, thermo. 260,000km, origianal clutch.5 speed fuel injected 2.2 litre non v tec. Ok, here goes, car always operated excellent, til I stopped to get gas, and it wouldnt start, after an hour of sitting at the pump, it started, off I went, shortly after I took it in, and was advised to get a new battery, I did, all seemed well, then it started again, this time I was told it was my starter, after replacing that, about 3 weeks after, same thing, only now it was stalling while I was driving. This time, I was told it was my ignitor, so I replaced the distributor. After 2 months of problem free driving, wouldnt you know, wont start again! Basically, any time the car is up to temperature and I shut it off, I have to wait on average 15 mins for it to start again, which makes it quite awkward, not to mention embarrassing when getting gas, or going in the store etc. Today I put a jumper wire in the ecm, and it gave me the code for "ignition output signal", I proceeded to check all wiring and discovered my secondary wire to my coil was loose, still attatched, but barely, would that be the cause, or should I replace the ignition coil? Im at my end here, sorry about the novel, but I need some good help, any input would be much appreciated.
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Sunday, June 10th, 2007 AT 4:41 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
Several items it could be but I favor the EFI relay located up under the dash above the drivers left leg. It is way up there but a real problem item with these syptoms. There are other culprits possible as well.
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Monday, June 11th, 2007 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
Thank you for the quick response, today, I out new battery wires, and cleaned up my battery, and cleaned up the ends on my ign. Coil, drove the car to work, (25 kms), no problems, but I just got lucky I believe, Is the efi relay accessible without removing the dash, Im fairly good with car audio, and alarms and things, but never had to do this before? Thanks, Gus
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Monday, June 11th, 2007 AT 11:50 PM
Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
What are some of the other culprits, I may have already done them, however, ill do anything, just to drive in peace, thanks again
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Tuesday, June 12th, 2007 AT 12:04 AM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
It is up there a ways under the dash and doable without pulling the dash. During those times when the engine does not start is when you need to be diagnosing the problem. Unfortunately you often need an extra pair of hands. Drive around and let it happen in your yard. You need to check the spark and fuel pressure when this happens to get started down the right path.
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Tuesday, June 12th, 2007 AT 8:43 AM
Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
Thanks again, im going to go ahaed and change the relay, ive only been able to find one at the dealer near me, $103, is that a fair price? I was thinking about checking out a local salvage yard first, any other relays or sensors I should grab while im there? Thanks ahead of time, this site is great, and a vital tool for the try it yourselfer, Gus
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Wednesday, June 13th, 2007 AT 11:14 AM
Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
About the efi relay, when checking my trouble codes, it said "ignition output signal" is this related to the efi relay? Or is this just another issue all together, I might point out, I did this after my car stalled, and wouldnt fire up again.
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Wednesday, June 13th, 2007 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
That was the CEL coming on and you got a code? To avoid getting the wrong thing do the drive around and when it does not restart, check the engine for spark. If you have spark, check the fuel delivery. I know this stuff is simple but it could be a crank, cam, TDC, Throttle Position sensor. Check before running to get the EFI.
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Wednesday, June 13th, 2007 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
Would you recommend that I take it in and have a good diagnostic done? Then perhaps I could do the fixing part myself. Im recently at a new job, and I need my car to be reliable, so I dont have to leave early, just incase.
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Thursday, June 14th, 2007 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
You can and maybe should, but you need to know this could take some time to diagnose and diligence on the part of the person trying to resolve it. It takes time to get it warm and not starting. Then you get to diagnose but you have to keep in mind that eventually it will start, so you have to drive it again and start all over again.
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Thursday, June 14th, 2007 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
After searching around for a bit under my dr. Side dash, I think I found it, however, my haynes book displays an 8 prong plug, rectangular shape. Mine was a tophat shaped thing, with 5 prongs? 3 wires going into it, is this what im lookin for(main relay)
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Saturday, June 16th, 2007 AT 3:44 PM
Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
Hey there, I came accross an ignition coil, and it didnt help, still stalling, and wont start, last time 35 minutes! I have recently found out that my distributor was from a 1990, are they the same for a 1994? Im starting to wonder, its acting the exact same way.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2007 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
You asked once what other items could cause this. A camshaft position sensor could as well and unless I am mistaken it resides in the distributor. As for the interchangeability of distributors, the salvage yards are the ones with the line on that.
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Wednesday, June 27th, 2007 AT 8:10 AM
Tiny
GUS_STEELER
  • MEMBER
Hi again, according to the local wrecker, the dist. Is the same. After looking again, I located the main relay, but it was under the dash, but on the right side, above the gas pedal? After taking the housing off, I noticed some of the solders were in rough shape, I remelted the old solder, while applying some fresh stuff, as of right now, car is running really well, lets hope it stays that way, ill keep you posted.
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Thursday, June 28th, 2007 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
There are a lot of articles on that problem. Replacement is an obvious option, but you have done the right thing that others have used as well. Good job.
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Friday, June 29th, 2007 AT 8:41 AM
Tiny
DESERTSHADOW
  • MEMBER
Hey, Gus, did you mean that you located, removed, and THEN DISASSEMBLED the relay? That's pretty cool! I have had a nightmare-ish time diagnosing an identical problem on my '91 Accord Ex 2.2 AT. I replaced first the Main Relay, then the entire Distributor assembly, complete with coil/igniter/etc. ($65/250, respectively) and STILL have problem. I'm convinced it is NOT fuel-volume/supply based on pressure at fuel filter (wishingly replaced 4 times).
EVERY body says the Main Relay is a pain in the butt and usually the culprit. I posted wondering if it could be hard-wired (it's just a remote switch, so why not?).
THIS is why I'm so interested that you cracked the relay case and re-soldered these wanking connections! How does it look in there?
Also, someone posted that they had relocated the relay mounting position lower on the pass. Compartment firewall where it wouldn't get so superheated and would enjoy more airflow.
Love to hear about your relay surgery!
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Sunday, July 1st, 2007 AT 3:17 PM

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