1991 Honda Accord



June, 29, 2009 AT 5:03 PM

Electrical problem
1991 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 220000 miles

My Battery light is intermittently on. Sometimes the whole time I drive it, sometimes not at all, sometimes for a few minutes. It has a new battery and new connecters from the battery cable to the terminals. I have removed the alternator but Schucks tested it and said it was good. I have checked as many ground wires as I could find and they all look good. The only ground wire under the hood that I couldn't find was one that should be on the right rear of the engine, I couldn't see it from the top of the engine so I wasn't able to check it.
Is there anything else I can check? Is it possible that my alternator is bad but the test at the parts store doesn't recognize it? I believe it is the original alternator. Thanks for any help you can give me.


Why Is My Battery Light On?


Gen Light


3 Answers



June, 29, 2009 AT 7:11 PM

Check alternator wiring harness connections and drive belt tension. Ensure battery is fully charged and connections at battery cables, alternator and main fuses are good.
Check dash fuse box fuse No. 2 (15A). Replace fuse(s) as necessary.
NOTE:If any fuse is blown, charge warning light will come on even if the charging system is working properly.

With engine at normal operating temperature, remove alternator harness connector.
Turn ignition switch to ON position.
Ensure battery voltage is present between Black/Yellow wire terminal of harness connector and ground. If battery voltage is present, go to step 4).
If battery voltage is not present, check dash fuse No. 2 (15A). Check for open circuit in Black/Yellow wire between dash fuse box and alternator.
Turn ignition off.

Reconnect alternator harness connector.
Connect alternator tester with integral carbon pile to apply electrical load to system. Start engine.
Ensure all accessories are off.

Operate engine at 2000 RPM and apply a load with carbon pile so voltage reading drops to no less than 12 volts. Cooling fan must not come on while testing.

Check maximum amperage and compare with appropriate alternator specification chart.
NOTE:Due to engine operation, subtract 5-10 amperes from the maximum reading.

If amperage reading is within specification, charging system is okay. If amperage is not within specification, perform full field test.

Recheck amperage. If amperage is still not within specification, replace alternator. If amperage is within specification, internal voltage regulator is defective and must be replaced.



June, 29, 2009 AT 10:33 PM

You told me how to check the alternator. Thats been done and it was good. Is the test you explained any more reliable than what is done at the parts store? Is there anything else I can do? The only thing NEW that you told me was to check the fuse. Could you answer my original questions.



June, 30, 2009 AT 6:27 AM

This test done on the car the way it should be
to verify wiring and fuses and or alternator failure
If the test was done and all pass you should have no problem
I AM only trying to help

good luck

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