Hesitation, loss of power on inclines.

Tiny
JHARPER0701
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4.3L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 220,000 MILES
My truck runs great while its cold. But once that engine temp rises and the engine is at normal temps, the engine light comes on. And once the light is thrown I almost instantly have less power (horribly noticeable on incline) and also it will hesitate and stumble during take off or acceleration (bad). It will sometimes gradually get worse the more miles I drive. Another thing that's odd. When ever I'm on an incline and I press down on the throttle it will feel like less power and when I let out a bit it will get a bit more power until I press back down. Then it does it again. Like I said it runs wow great while its cold. But once warmed up the engine light throws and begins to act up. Truck has a new map sensor, new engine coolant sensor. New thermostat. New plugs and wires. Fresh oil change. New fuel filter. Any help would be great. Please HELP!
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Saturday, April 25th, 2015 AT 9:37 AM

12 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Have the stored codes read and post the specific code number here.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2015 AT 10:58 AM
Tiny
JHARPER0701
  • MEMBER
I can have that done later. But could you take a shot at what you think?
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Saturday, April 25th, 2015 AT 11:24 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
No, that's why the computer is equipped with diagnostic monitors and warning lights.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2015 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
JHARPER0701
  • MEMBER
I understand that. I've just recently tried and tried. Nobody around me seems to have anythibg to read my truck. Please help. Any clues would be of the most appreciated. It loses almost all power on inclines. And today it got so bad. From wanting to die and sputter and buck. I unhooked the map sensor and it ran better. But. Still no power. Disconnecting the map made it run 100 times smoother. But no power. Please just give me some idea.
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Friday, May 1st, 2015 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
And all that accomplished is to set some false codes to totally confuse things once you do get the codes read.
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Sunday, May 3rd, 2015 AT 12:12 PM
Tiny
JHARPER0701
  • MEMBER
OK. Over the weekend I was able to track down a code reader. Coming up a o2 sensor. Upstream I'm assuming. I don't have a down stream. I bought a new part to replace and cut the cat off. It sounds like sand inside. Assuming that's bad. So I'm replacing all of that. Would the bad o2 sensor cause those symptoms?
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Monday, May 4th, 2015 AT 2:39 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
All you need to do is give me the exact code number. Don't replace anything. Don't cut anything off.
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Monday, May 4th, 2015 AT 2:48 AM
Tiny
JHARPER0701
  • MEMBER
13
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Monday, May 4th, 2015 AT 3:34 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
That's a generic code for an issue with the 0/2 sensor circuit. It needs to be further troubleshooted to determine if it's rich, lean or not responding at all. If you suspect a plugged converter, you would need to do a pressure test at the 0/2 sensor hole.
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Monday, May 4th, 2015 AT 3:42 AM
Tiny
JHARPER0701
  • MEMBER
OK. I did replace the o2 sensor. And removed the cat. The cat was half fried. I replaced the sensor. It is still hesitant. And stumbles. Could this be a bad fuel pump? Or clogged fuel lines? Remember it only acts bad after it warms up.
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Tuesday, May 5th, 2015 AT 8:32 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
I'd tell you to test the fuel pressure but I know you won't do that.

If you think you're going to resolve this by throwing random parts at it, that will get very expensive very fast. You have no test equipment or and desire to test anything so the only advice I can give you is to have it diagnosed by a professional. It's going to be cheaper in the long run.
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Tuesday, May 5th, 2015 AT 8:54 AM
Tiny
JHARPER0701
  • MEMBER
So your telling me. That when my wife's car acted funny. I cleaned the maf sensor with a can of spray and cured the problem. When the professional gave her an estimate of $200. I see what your saying. Or like when I had a trailblazer and took it to a professional and they told me $150 to replace the head gasket as a overheating problem. Then I have to call said professionals to tell me that the intake manifold was blown and now the bill is $650. All while these different professionals. I wasn't born yesterday. And I'm far from a professional. But when the state I live in there is no requirement of license or certification to own and operate a garage. Buy $2000 worth of testing equipment and I could do that to people to. I'm on here asking for help not asking to be patranized. With a little tip or nudge in the right direction I could save money in the long run.
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Tuesday, May 5th, 2015 AT 9:08 AM

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