1995 GMC Jimmy Setting Engine Timing

Tiny
CFERRY1
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 GMC JIMMY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 225,000 MILES
GMC Jimmy 1995, CPI CMFI Fuel Injection, 4.3L V6 Vortek. The VIN # 1GKDT13W6S2547512.

I am trying to adjust the timing on this vehicle.
With Timing Light, while engine is at 800 rpm idle
the Timing is reading ~ 10 - 15 % Advanced.
Two problems here:
(1) The Haynes Repair Manual which I am using, reads that you can adjust (rotate) the Distributor once you have loosened the Hold-Down Bolt. The manual reads : "( Ignition Timing Check and adjustment ( 1994 and 1995 VIN W and Z V6 only)." On my vehicle their is a hard plastic distributor Position Lock which is not letting me rotate the Distributor.
How should I proceed?
(2) Prior to Timing meassurement. The manual states that you must bypass the timing system. Locate the single tan with black striped wire that is connected to the distributor.
My vehicle has two separate wire bundle connections.
It does not have a single tan wire.
I know one is for the Camshaft sensor, however, I do not know what the other small 2-4 wire bundle connection is for. The second on is not a single wire per manual; it is 2-4 wires?
For a Engine of this age is 10 -15 % Advanced a reasonable timing setting?

Can you correct / help with this Timing Adjustment process?
Thank You for the help.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009 AT 5:37 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
There is no timing adjustment, the crank sensor does all that in conjunction with the computer. The information you have from Hayns is for an older vehicle.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009 AT 5:55 AM
Tiny
CFERRY1
  • MEMBER
Dear BMRFIXIT,

Thank You for the reply.

I'm glad I didn't break it trying to move it!

Can you reply concerning the Haynes manual in difference?

Thank You
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009 AT 8:55 AM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Hello,

There is many discrepancies in the online manuals, that's why a quality manual like Mitchell1. Com is a better deal, updated constantly.
.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009 AT 9:21 AM
Tiny
CFERRY1
  • MEMBER
Dear obxautomedic,

Thank you for reply. I cant believe what a great resource this site is, thanks again for everything.

Thank You for your reply in advance.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009 AT 9:52 AM
Tiny
CFERRY1
  • MEMBER
I have a new problem, the engine stopped running!

I have digital ohm-metered from end to end the Battery Cables which I can easily probe each end.
They all are 0 ohms.
I did purchase a set of used battery cables which should fit. I am going to try this !
Unless I have a Analog Ohm Meter this type of measurement may be in question.

It is strange that when I turn the Ignition only to the ON position, then the interior voltage at the cigarette lighter and power accessory outlets drop 1.0 - 1.5 volts from what it was in the OFF position.
This is ALOT of current drawn only in the ON position.
Question?
Can you confirm this Current draw.
With the key in the ON position the voltage at the Battery stays the same and at the Starter.
However the voltage Going to "ENG1" Fuse circuit and of course here to the COIL is the 1.0 - 1.5 volt difference voltage.
This lower voltage to the Coil is a Problem or Not a Problem?
The symptom of having to Jump the vehicle reminds me of Battery Cable or Ground problems. Still Have not resolved this one !

Thank You
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009 AT 11:51 AM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Let me ask a question if I may
1st thing in the morning takes few cranks before it start or you have to get jump for it to start as you drained the battery trying and once it start and run its OK for most of the day if this is correct
have to do a fuel pressure test 1st
suspect a bad fuel
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009 AT 1:04 PM
Tiny
CFERRY1
  • MEMBER
Dear BMRFIXIT and obxautomedic,

I have performed all the Voltage Drop Tests - ALL Pass.
I finally obtained my Fuel Pressure Guage from my storage.
THE FUEL PRESSURE TEST FAILED !
I'll be proceeding from here.
Thank You for your help.
I'll be making a donation shortly.
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Monday, June 1st, 2009 AT 3:38 PM

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