Fuel damper leaks

DSAINT

MEMBER
1990 TOYOTA 4RUNNER
3.0L
V6
4WD
AUTOMATIC
197,000 MILES

Do not really know how long this has been happening bout after a while I noticed the smell of gas for a few months I would look and search for this smells source. After some months it got to the point of me having to find out where this smell is coming from. Finally I found the source and there is no information really about it. Before I knew the name I had to Google descriptions; yellow cap found by spark plug, yellow cap came off? Etc, finally I found something called the fuel regulator by after Googling the part it was not what I was looking at. Trying to figure this out. I saw a screw in the area of the yellow cap and grabbed it with a magnet without being able to really see I stuck me hand in this small space and believed to find where the screw went and after many fails finally screwed it in. I found out after searching for a screw being found the entire piece is called a fuel damper. Now the leak is not as bad. Should I really try to get the screw as tight as I can or is it going to eventually come out again?

Things to know:

The truck runs well and drives and the leak does not really cause the mileage to drop which is weird because the drips were anywhere from two to seven drips a second.

When facing the windshield from the hood The piece is in the back between the windshield and the engine in the middle I have to stand on the passenger side to even get it.

It is a piece of metal with the screw in it which is pushed out when pressure is high to release the pressure there is a yellow cap that covers it.

For a long time the screw is in a tight spot so I was not sure if I was not tightening or if it was and popping out. But once I pushed it in by hand it has not popped out but I do have to tighten every now and then?

But the smell still happens every now and then.

Should I get I get in there and get it tight or repack this one hundred dollar piece?

5 Replies

STEVE W.

MECHANIC
12,961 POSTS

Fuel leaks are never a good thing, many vehicle fires start that way. That screw is not supposed to be moved or adjusted. If it is loose the internal parts are damaged and it needs to be replaced.

Standard Motor Products FPD6
Toyota 23207-65010

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Sunday, May 6th, 2018 AT 11:44 AM

DSAINT

MEMBER
3 POSTS
1990 TOYOTA 4RUNNER
2.0L
V6
4WD
AUTOMATIC
197,000 MILES

I posted regarding the replacement of my fuel damper. Well after doing so having to remove the intake manifold pipes and vacuum lines. I might have made a few mistakes. First off, I do not know the exact vacuum lines original positions please help me with that as detailed as possible pictures please. I know nothing about cars first major replacement. Secondly, I have started the vehicle and white smoke is coming out exhaust when I start it the idle is real bad then I have to rev the gas to keep it going after a while the smoke slows down but never 100% goes away. Before my repaired fail it ran and just leaked gas out the damper, so I am clueless on what to do. I hope it is the vacuum lines being put back incorrectly. If you need any more information I can provide that just ask.

Please help me save this truck.

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Friday, May 25th, 2018 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)

STEVE W.

MECHANIC
12,961 POSTS

White smoke is 99% of the time coolant being burned in the engine.
Get the lines sorted out first. Then see if it runs better. It is possible that the coolant is some that got into the engine when you were working on it as well. It is also possible, as it was not doing it prior to you removing the intake, it is likely either a bad gasket, installation or intake manifold warpage that is the issue if it does not clear up with running.
I would also pull the plugs and clean them, if there was water in the cylinder(s) it can short out the plug and cause it to misfire.

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Monday, May 28th, 2018 AT 6:21 PM (Merged)

DSAINT

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Thank you go the response. I know nothing about vehicles; so the diagram is hard to understand. So if you do not mind I have specific questions.

Vacuum lines:
- There are two lines under the power steering canister. Where do these connect to?
- There isare y PVC pipes what connects to those?
-In front of the damper there was a line that connected the throttle to the black canister. And it has broke? Can I connect the canister directly to the throttle?

Intake manifold:
-Should I drain the coolant before working in this?
-If coolant did get inside engine to burn how long does it take to burn out?
-Should I take off and reinstall the manifold?
-What is the intake manifold warpage?

Thank you for your time.

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Wednesday, May 30th, 2018 AT 4:28 AM

STEVE W.

MECHANIC
12,961 POSTS

Without being the one who removed them or having that vehicle in front of me those are going to be tough to answer. My SOP on vacuum lines is to always mark them because even on "identical" vehicles they are sometimes routed different. That sometimes is not a problem if they are all connected to one vacuum source using a manifold, but others are critical.

I did look online for pictures but most of them are the same diagrams as I posted. There were a few youtube videos that might help you though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7iw7g-7C5Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAR3nKxr28A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEW39M8qXZs

The line that broke should be replaced. Many times they are installed to prevent vibration or heat transfer.

For the intake, What did you remove the first time? If you removed only the upper manifold then you could do the same again and check that the gaskets are okay. If you removed the lower intake as well then the same applies.
It sounds more like you need to get the vacuum lines routed correctly first though.

As far as how long it would take if it is just coolant in the intake, that all depends on how much is there and how much was pushed into the exhaust system.