Rear brake pad and rotor (drum and shoe) replacement instructions please?

Tiny
MIFA LO
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
When I turn left or right front brakes grind from the rear I think I need to do a brake job.
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Tuesday, June 18th, 2019 AT 11:36 AM

17 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Replacing rear brake pads and rotors really isn't that difficult. When you do it yourself, make sure to get lifetime replacement parts so you never have to pay again. You can expect rear brakes to last approximately 30,000, but that will vary based on terrain and driving habits.

First, here is a link and videos that shows in general how it's done. You can use this as a guide.

https://youtu.be/PAjUx1Rct4Q

and

https://youtu.be/EMxfb9X3ywE

and

https://youtu.be/-Ts8SRUxRc8

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

____________________________________________

2010 Chevy Truck Suburban 4WD V8-5.3L
Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement (1500 Series)
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement (1500 Series)
REAR DISC BRAKE PADS REPLACEMENT (1500 SERIES)
Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement (1500 Series)
Warning: Refer to Brake Dust Warning (See: Brakes and Traction Control > Technician Safety Information > Brake Dust Warning).

Removal Procedure

1. Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
2. If the fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
3. If the fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (See: Vehicle Lifting > Procedures > Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle).
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation (See: Wheels and Tires > Removal and Replacement > Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation).

pic 1

6. Compress the brake caliper piston.

1. Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard pad.
2. Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston is pushed completely into the caliper bore.
3. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.

pic 2

Note:
* DO NOT use any air tools to remove the guide pin bolts. Use hand tools only.
* Install an open end wrench to hold the caliper guide pin in line with the brake caliper while removing or installing the caliper guide pin bolt. DO NOT allow the open end wrench to come in contact with the brake caliper. Allowing the open end wrench to come in contact with the brake caliper will cause a pulsation when the brake are applied.

7. Using an open end wrench to hold the guide pin, loosen the guide pin bolt.

pic 3

8. Remove the guide pin bolt (1) from the brake caliper (2).

Caution: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

Note: Do not disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the brake caliper.

9. Rotate the brake caliper (2) upward until it stops on the caliper mounting bracket (5) and support the caliper with heavy mechanics wire or equivalent.

Note:
* If installing the original brake pads and spring clips, mark the position of the brake pads and spring clips for proper installation.
* If installing new brake pads, install new pad spring clips. Do not reuse the old pad spring clips with new brake pads.

10. Remove the brake pads (3) and spring clips (4) from the mounting bracket (5).
11. Thoroughly clean the pad hardware mating surfaces of the caliper bracket of any corrosion or debris with denatured alcohol and allow to dry.

Note: Use care when cleaning the brake caliper pistons to avoid damaging the piston dust seals.

12. If installing new brake pads, thoroughly clean the brake caliper piston faces and caliper housing to brake pad contact surfaces of all disc brake pad insulator adhesive residue with denatured alcohol and allow to dry.

Installation Procedure

pic 4

1. Apply a very thin coating of high temperature silicone brake lubricant to the pad hardware mating surfaces of the caliper bracket only.
2. Install the spring clips (4) on the caliper mounting bracket (5).
3. If installing new brake pads, remove the adhesive backing paper from the disc brake pad insulators.

Note: If installing the original brake pads, note the locations marked prior to removal.

4. Install the brake pads (3).
5. Remove the mechanics wire and rotate the brake caliper (2) into position on the mounting bracket (5).
6. Install NEW caliper guide pin bolts.

pic 5

Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution (See: Vehicle > Vehicle Damage Warnings > Fastener Caution).

Note:
* DO NOT use any air tools to remove or tighten the guide pin bolts. Use hand tools ONLY.
* Install an open end wrench to hold the caliper guide pins in line with the caliper while removing or installing the caliper. DO NOT allow the wrench to come in contact with the brake caliper. Allowing the wrench to come in contact with the brake caliper will cause a pulsation when the brakes are applied.

7. Use a open end wrench to hold the caliper guide pin while tightening the guide pin bolt to 38 Nm (28 lb ft).
8. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation (See: Wheels and Tires > Removal and Replacement > Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation).
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
11. Slowly release the brake pedal.
12. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 10-11 until a firm pedal is obtained, to properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
13. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling (See: Brake Master Cylinder > Procedures > Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling).
14. Firmly apply and maintain pressure on the brake pedal for 30 seconds to seat the brake pad insulators to the brake caliper pistons and caliper housing. Repeat this step 1 additional time.
15. Burnish the brake pads and rotors. Refer to Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing (See: Brake Pad > Procedures > Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing).

________________________________________

Rotor Replacement

2010 Chevy Truck Suburban 4WD V8-5.3L
Rear Brake Rotor Replacement (1500 Series)
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Rotor/Disc Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Rear Brake Rotor Replacement (1500 Series)
REAR BRAKE ROTOR REPLACEMENT (1500 SERIES)
Rear Brake Rotor Replacement (1500 Series)

Special Tools
* J-41013 - Rotor Resurfacing Kit Rotor Resurfacing Kit
* J-42450-A - Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit

Warning: Refer to Brake Dust Warning (See: Brakes and Traction Control > Technician Safety Information > Brake Dust Warning).

Removal Procedure

1. Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
2. If the fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
3. If the fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
4. Release the park brake, if necessary.
5. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (See: Vehicle Lifting > Procedures > Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle).
6. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation (See: Wheels and Tires > Removal and Replacement > Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation).

pic 6

7. Compress the brake caliper piston:

1. Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard pad.
2. Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston is pushed completely into the caliper bore.
3. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.

8. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.

pic 7

Caution: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

9. Remove the brake caliper and the bracket as an assembly and support with heavy mechanics wire or equivalent.
10. If installing the original brake rotor, mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.
11. Adjust the park brake so that the adjuster is fully seated.

pic 8

12. Remove the push nuts from the brake rotor if necessary.
13. Apply a small amount of penetrating oil to the wheel studs.
14. Install the lug nuts on the end of the wheel studs.
15. Using a dead blow hammer, tap the brake rotor between the wheel studs.
16. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel studs.

pic 9

17. Remove the brake rotor from the axle flange.

Installation Procedure

Note: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the hub/axle flange, any rust or contaminants should be cleaned from the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral runout (LRO) of the brake rotor, which could lead to brake pulsation.

1. Using the J-42450-A - Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit, clean the rust and contaminants from the mating surface of the hub flange.
2. Using the J-41013 - Rotor Resurfacing Kit, clean all rust and contaminants from the inside diameter of the hat section of the brake rotor to prevent any foreign material from getting between the brake rotor and the hub flange.

pic 10

3. Align the rotor to its original position on the hub, if applicable, and install the rotor.

pic 11

4. Install the caliper and caliper bracket assembly.
5. Perform the following procedure before installing the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts:

1. Remove all traces of the original adhesive patch from the threads of the bolts.
2. Clean the threads of the bolts with denatured alcohol or equivalent and allow to dry.
3. Apply threadlocker GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488) to the threads of the bolts.

Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution (See: Vehicle > Vehicle Damage Warnings > Fastener Caution).

6. Install the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts and tighten to 165 Nm (122 lb ft).
7. Adjust the park brake. Refer to Parking Brake Adjustment (1500) (See: Parking Brake System > Adjustments > Parking Brake Adjustment (1500))Parking Brake Adjustment (2500) (See: Parking Brake System > Adjustments > Parking Brake Adjustment (2500)).
8. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation (See: Wheels and Tires > Removal and Replacement > Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation).
9. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
10. Slowly release the brake pedal.
11. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 9-10 until a firm pedal is obtained to properly seat the caliper pistons and pads.
12. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid, if necessary. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling (See: Brake Master Cylinder > Procedures > Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling).
13. If the brake rotor was refinished or replaced, burnish the brake pads and rotors. Refer to Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing (See: Brake Pad > Procedures > Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing)

___________________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 1:55 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 120,000 MILES
I just replaced heating module but I noticed I need to do the brakes?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Replacing front brakes isn't too hard to do. You can expect to get approximately 25,000 miles from a set of pads, but that is based on the driver.

First, here is a link that shows how to replace brakes and rotors in general. You can use this as a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd
_________________________________

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

________________________________

2005 Chevy Truck Suburban 1/2 Ton 2WD V8-5.3L VIN T
Brake Pads Replacement - Front
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Procedures Brake Pads Replacement - Front
BRAKE PADS REPLACEMENT - FRONT
Brake Pads Replacement - Front

Removal Procedure

Caution: Refer to Brake Dust in Service Precautions.

pic 1

1. Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
2. If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
3. If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level. remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to in Vehicle Lifting.
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to in Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
6. Inspect the caliper operation. Refer to Brake Caliper Inspection

Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

7. Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and support the caliper with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Front.
8. Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket.
9. Remove and discard the anti-rattle clips from the brake caliper mounting bracket.
10. Inspect the caliper and mounting bracket. Refer to Brake Caliper Inspection.

Installation Procedure

pic 2

1. Install new anti-rattle clips to the inside ends of the caliper mounting bracket.
2. Install the brake pads to the caliper mounting bracket.
3. Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Front.
4. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
5. Remove the safety stands.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
8. Slowly release the brake pedal.
9. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-8 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
10. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.
11. Burnish the brake pads and rotors. Refer to Burnishing Pads and Rotors.

___________________________________

Brake Rotor Replacement

2005 Chevy Truck Suburban 1/2 Ton 2WD V8-5.3L VIN T
Brake Rotor Replacement - Front
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Rotor/Disc Service and Repair Procedures Brake Rotor Replacement - Front
BRAKE ROTOR REPLACEMENT - FRONT
Brake Rotor Replacement - Front

Caution: Refer to Brake Dust Caution in Service Precautions.

Tools Required
J41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit
J42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit

Removal Procedure

pic 3

Notice: Any new rotor must have the protective coating removed from the friction surfaces before being placed in service. Remove the protective coating using denatured alcohol or an equivalent, and wipe the surface clean with clean cloths. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or other oil base solvents which may leave an oily residue. This residue is damaging to the brake lining and is flammable.

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting..
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
3. Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.
4. Install a C-clamp over the body of the brake caliper, with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and the outboard disc brake pad.
5. Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the pistons are pushed into the caliper bores enough to remove the caliper from the pads.

pic 4

6. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
7. Remove the 2 brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.

Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

8. Remove the brake caliper and brake caliper mounting bracket as an assembly and support with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.
9. Remove the rotor retaining push nuts from the wheel studs, if applicable.
10. It may be necessary to strike the end of the hub or the rotor with a deadblow hammer to separate the rotor from the hub.

pic 5

11. Remove the rotor.
12. If the rotor is difficult to remove due to corrosion in the hub area use the following procedure to remove the rotor.
Clean all the surface areas and the threaded holes of contamination.
Generously apply penetrating oil or the equivalent to the hub/rotor area.
Insert (2) M10 x 1.5 bolts into the threaded holes of the rotor.
Tighten both bolts evenly to force the rotor from the hub.

Installation Procedure

pic 6

Important: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the hub/axle flange, any rust or contaminants should be cleaned from the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled Lateral Runout (LRO) of the brake rotor, which could lead to brake pulsation.

1. Use the J42450-A to clean all rust and contaminants from the mating surface of the hub flange.
2. Use the J41013to clean all rust and contaminants from the inside diameter of the hat section of the brake rotor to prevent any foreign material from getting between the brake rotor and the hub flange.
3. Inspect the mating surfaces of the hub/axle flange and the rotor to ensure that there are no foreign particles or debris remaining.

Important: If the rotor was removed using the jack screw method you must ensure that the hub flange is free of nicks or marks caused by this procedure. Remove all raised nicks or marks before installing the rotor.

4. Align the rotor to its original position on the hub, if applicable, and install the rotor.
5. If the brake rotor was removed and installed as part of a brake system repair, measure the assembled Lateral Runout (LRO) of the brake rotor to ensure optimum performance of the disc brakes. Refer to Brake Rotor Assembled Lateral Runout (LRO) Measurement.
6. If the brake rotor assembled LRO measurement exceeds the specification, bring the LRO to within specifications. Refer to Brake Rotor Assembled Lateral Runout (LRO) Correction.
7. Install the caliper and caliper mounting bracket assembly.
8. Perform the following procedure before installing the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.
Remove all traces of the original adhesive patch.
Clean the threads of the bolt with brake parts cleaner or the equivalent and allow to dry.
Apply Threadlocker GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488) to the threads of the bolt.

pic 7

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

9. Install the 2 caliper bracket mounting bolts.
Tighten the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts to 175 Nm (121 ft. lbs.) (15 Series).
Tighten the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts to 300 Nm (221 ft. lbs.) (25 Series).

10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
13. Slowly release the brake pedal.
14. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 12-13 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
15. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.

__________________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MSCANN
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 139,000 MILES
Im having trouble removing the rear roors on my suburban I have a feeling its got something to do with the emergency barke. Would appreciate some instructiion
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACK42
  • EXPERT
If it is the E-brake the rotor will move around, but not come off. If the rotor is stuck on the axle it wont wiggle at all. Try turning the axle while pulling out on the rotor if it is the brake holding it. If it wont budge off the axle, try tapping the face of the rotor between the wheel studs to jar it loose, or if that doesn twork you can tap it from behind with a hammer. If it still wont come off you may have to get a little rough with it to pop the brake shoe off its clip and allow the rotor to come off.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DBLOCK611
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
My drum is stuck on how do I get it off
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
Spray penetrating oil around the lugs and let it soak in. next hit around the inside of the drum with a hammer. then try popping it off. if the drum is loose but wont come off then the pads need to be retracted so that the drum wil come off. this video will help

https://youtu.be/UV0kfP17Co0

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
1FOCUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
How do I adjust the rear brakes on my 99 burban? Drum style
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Look on the back bottom of the drum backing plate there should be either an oval rubber plug or 2 indented oval knock outs.

If the is a rubber plug remove it using a flashlight look inside for the adjusting wheel. Using a brake adjusting tool you will incert it so that you spin the wheel downward. Make sure before adjusting you have the vehicle wheels up off the ground. And only adjust a few clicks at a time. Spin wheel when wheel spins about one and a half times then brakes should be adjusted good.

If it has the knock outs you will need to remove the drum to locate the position of the adjusting wheel and knock out the oval behind it. then do the above.

Here is a diagram....


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_99suburbbrkdrum_1.jpg

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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NORM10
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 7.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,000 MILES
The passenger side rear drum brake on my K2500 (454 big block engine) is seized (13" drums). Viewed from the side of the backing plate, which way do I turn the star adjuster to loosen the shoes from the drum? Should the adjusting wheel for the passenger side drum be moved up or down to loosen the brake, again as viewed from the side of the backing plate? Would the direction one turns the star adjuster to loosen the brake be the same on the drivers side as on the passenger side? If the adjuster will not rotate (it is rusted), what are the options for removing the drum? Thank you, in advance, for your guidance.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
See picture, double arrow shows adjuster and single arrow shows which way wheel has to turn which if you have a brake tool would be moving it down and it will get resistance if adjuster is not moved out of way. Also if you try to move the adjuster the wrong way it wont go because the adjuster arm stops it. this video should help

https://youtu.be/-Ts8SRUxRc8

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NORM10
  • MEMBER
Thank you for the reply, HMAC300. Would you please confirm that the down arrow in the picture you provided is from the perspective that the star adjuster would be moved downward using the slot on the outside of the backing plate? In other words, from the perspective where one is looking at the backing plate toward the adjuster and not looking at the adjuster toward the backing plate. Thank you again.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If you are looking at the backing plate hole and stick a brake adjusting tool in it you would have to go downward.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NORM10
  • MEMBER
Thanks again. Is it the same for the driver-side drum brake too? One would move the star adjuster wheel downward to loosen the shoes from the drum. Thanks in advance.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It should be other wise you will tighten them
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NORM10
  • MEMBER
I can't seem to locate the lever to allow the star adjuster on the driver-side rear drum brake to rotate downward so that I can loosen the shoes from the drum. Any ideas? I can pull out the drum a short distance (about a half an inch) but the shoes are caught on a lip at the edge of the drum. I have tried using a pry bar to pull off the drum but have had little to no success with this approach. Thank you.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Try hitting lever through bottom or top of hole for adjuster access
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)

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