2000 Ford Windstar 2000 Ford Windstar - Several Issues PLEA

Tiny
ARIESNUMEROUNO
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD WINDSTAR
Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Ford Windstar 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 120.00 miles

Ok I have a 2000 Ford WIndstar. First off, the A/C blows just air (not hot, sometimes cool) in the front vents only. Back works FINE! Same with Heater! Why?

Power Window on the Drivers Side WILL NOT ROLL DOWN all of a sudden. I hear a ticking noise when I hit the switch to roll the window down- by the fuse box under the dash but I dont know what that means.

Because of these 2 problems, I decided to start with checking fuses! I checked ALL fuses under the dash..... I found 1 blown - It was 17 - Cigar Lighter ect.....
That explains why the damn cigarette lighter hasnt been working, lol! So I removed that blown fuse. I planned to go get one this AM

Fuse #9 was not even there and this is for the "Cluster, PATS Transciever, Powertrain Control Module Relay" whatever that is. So I noted it down so I would pick one up too!

I then became curious as to the Relay's. I pulled them out - 1 by 1 - and inspected them, only to realize that you cannot tell by looking at them if they are in working order. So I replaced them back IN THE EXACT SPOT and made sure they were secure.

Fuse #18 was missing when I checked this the other day. I went to autozone and bought a replacement 10a fuse. I thought it was weird because it looked different than the others. Same color but more roundish - not SQUARE like all the others. This fuse is repsonsible for the "LH Quater WIndow Motor, RH Quarter Window Motor, RH Window Switch, Backlighting, Master Control Switch (LH) Backlighting, Radio".I thought, hmmmm maybe that is why the window won't roll down.

So being the idiot that I am, I thought..... I will take the new weird looking 10a Fuse #18 (power windows) out and switch it with another fuse - I chose #19 "Starter Interrupt Delay" to see if the fuse was any good because I have no tools to check it.

Tried to start the can to see if it made any difference and IT WONT START ALL OF A SUDDEN. I freaked out and changed the fuses back to their original setting. Still the Van wont start. Then my husband said the head lights wouldn't go off because somehow the ANTI-THEFT was activated. So he disconnected the battery and they went off. But the van still wont start.

I have the owners manual diagram - but my husband HATES it and says he cannot understand it. I need another one. I got one from a Ford Dealership once but I can't find it. Does anyone know where I can get one online FOR FREE?

Help with Power WINDOW front Drivers Side not rolling down, FRONT A/C not cooling and heat not heating, Van won't Start...........

Thanks!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/376919_804104du5wzjy31m_1.jpg

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 AT 7:56 AM

1 Reply

Tiny
JNOVACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 723 POSTS
Heres how to test the relays

Step 1Find the particular relay you want to test. Depending on the circuit it controls, the relay may be located under the dashboard or inside the engine compartment in a junction block.

Step 2Turn the ignition switch to on to energize the particular circuit you are testing, if necessary.

Step 3Connect the alligator clip from a test light to any good ground on your vehicle. Probe the wire coming out of the relay and going to the component with the tip of the test light. If the bulb in the test light glows, there is voltage, and your relay is working properly.

Step 4Probe the wire or wires feeding voltage to the relay with the test light following the same procedure used on the previous step. If the light glows, there is incoming voltage. Otherwise, the relay is not receiving voltage. Check the voltage source.

Step 5Switch the ignition key off. Unplug the relay from its electrical connector, making sure not to break the locking tabs on the relay.

Step 6Identify the relay's power and control terminals. Some relays show a circuit diagram on top of the case to identify these terminals.

Step 7Check for continuity between the two power terminals using an ohmmeter. There should be no continuity. If there is continuity, replace the relay.

Step 8Connect a jumper wire between the battery positive terminal and one of the control circuit terminals on the relay. Connect the other control terminal to ground with another jumper wire. If you do not hear a click as you make the second connection, reverse the connections. If you still do not hear a click, replace the relay.

Step 9Connect the jumper wires as you did on the previous step. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the two power terminals. If there is continuity, the relay is working properly. Otherwise, replace the relay.
As for the a/c heater it sounds like the blend air doors not working and the power windows counds like the motor in the door
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 AT 10:37 PM

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