1994 Ford Thunderbird antilock

  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 34,000 MILES
I have a 94 Tbird with 34,000 miles that I bought from my boss that is the original owner.The car was in great shape except for the suspension bushings that were dry rotted from storage.
I replaced everything except the bushings for the tension rods. I took these to a mechanic to do so the alignment would not be off.
When I picked up the car, the antilock light was on and the traction control light was off and would not go on.
I took it back because I figured since they moved the spindles they might have disconnected or possibly broke a sensor at one of the front wheels. They found the fuse to the brake pump computer totally fried, connection and all.
They are still working on it telling me that they are trying to clear the last code.
They are telling me that it is impossible that this was caused by them.
My question is, could pulling on the sensors or even possibly shorting them out cause the fuse to the antilock pump/computer to burn up? The car had no codes of any when I took it to the shop. I don't want to get ripped off and want to know what i'm talking about.
I've Had over 35 vehicles from a 68 Camaro to a 05 Scion Xb. I consider my self well rounded. Any info will be so appreciated. Thanks, Ed


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have the same problem?
Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 AT 10:40 PM

1 Reply

Thanks for including the dandy photo. That is a "maxi fuse". The problem was a long time in coming and was due to a loose or corroded high-resistance contact between the fuse terminal and the socket in the fuse box. This same type of failure is fairly common on ignition switches and headlight switches. Anyplace a mechanical connection exists is ripe for this to happen. It was even very common in the early 1970s on the steering column harness connectors.

What IS possible is something they did during the alignment or test drive was the "straw that broke the camel's back", and the problem finally showed up, but it was developing for a long time. Fuses melt when the circuit is overloaded. The heat generated by the overheated contact could easily have melted the fuse element.

For the repair, it could be as simple as shining up the fuse box terminal and replacing the fuse. It could be necessary to replace the terminal, or even solder in a different style, replacement fuse holder. The wheel speed sensors had nothing to do with this problem either. They don't have high current going to them. They develop a very tiny signal voltage when the wheels turn.

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Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 AT 11:05 PM

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