1994 Ford Thunderbird 1994 knocking after removing distribu

Tiny
TTMAX
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD THUNDERBIRD
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
My problem is after installing new intake manifolds (upper/lower) I wanted to make sure the timign was perfect and there was no vacuum leaks. I went to a friends house and due to the dirt and grease on the flywheel I was unable to see the timing marks. I assumed (incorectly) that it was the notch cut in the flyweel and noticed that I was about 90 degees out of the timign mark. My friend suggested we pull the plugs out pull the distrubutor and make sure they were all in good shape. We found TDC, with number one and made the mistake of installing the plugs on the distr. Wrong. I incorreclty assumed that the cylinders were number from side to side having all of the odd cyl. On the passenger side with all of the even ones on the drivers side. We cranked and cranked the engine until we found our mistake. We then timed it perfectly and it was running good, except for a miss and poor throttle response. It seemed to have a small lag in it. BTW I had replaced the IAC, then the EDG Vacuum regulator solenoid, tested the EGR valve (good), replaced the distributor cap and had new platifnum plugs and plug wires. I may need a TPS as I notice the voltage seems to remain static on a climb to WOT at around 2.5V.

My problem arose afterwards by the appearance of a metallic knock that steadily got worse until I noticed the oil pressure light at idel was moving rythmically with the knock. I immediately thought of the oil pump since the distribuitor gear runs this (i think) and we had removed the distributor. We might have moved the distrubuotr one tooth since we had to turn the distriubot too much when it was in the adjacent tooth.

What could cause this problem and noise? Could the Camshaft bearings gone bad right after repairignthe intake manifold? Could some damage have been done when we were tryingto start with the plugs wired incorrectly?

I recently agreed on a selling price just prior to this mystery knocking and reduce performance running.

Pleaase help me out 2 guys!

Thanks in advance,
TTMax in VA
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Monday, September 21st, 2009 AT 3:53 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Honestly, nothing you did should have caused a rod or main bearing to go out unless when you were trying to start it, unburned gas made it's way into the crankcase and thinned out the oil. If you check the oil, does it smell like gas?
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Monday, September 21st, 2009 AT 9:39 PM
Tiny
TTMAX
  • MEMBER
No Jacobandnickolas I do not smell gas.

What could cause the symptom I previously described? The knocking is fairly loud and at idle the oil pressure gauge was dipping down low in rhythm with the knocking. Could it be a bearing on the crankshaft or a broken push rod? I need to know which way to investigate either through oil pan or removing intake and heads for valve/pushrod.

It seems very coincidental that this started right after removing the distributor. What could be causing this drop in oil pressure and reduced power to the engine to periodically cause a very low idle.
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If the oil pressure is low, I would start at the bottom end (crank and rod bearings). Pressure is produced from resistance from close tolerances between bearings.
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009 AT 3:51 PM

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