95 TARUS 3.0L BAD SMELL FROM VENTS, LEAKING WATER, PICTURE
1995 Ford Taurus
October, 28, 2007 AT 8:50 PM
95 Tarus 3.0L Sedan with 86,000 miles:
Musty, moldy smell coming from the vents. Even when they are off the smell is quite pungent. According to http://www.2carpros.com/topics/ac1.htm
"Try mixing 20% bleach and water in a spray bottle and spaying it into the intake of the heater system while on high speed fan this should kill the smell. Then let air out for 4 hours in dry warm place."
I am not certain where the heater intake is. I have included a photo with a red circle around where I think it is, just above the air filter housing.
It also is constantly dripping water when I am driving. It's not a lot but it is a constant drip. I have filled the coolant reservoir with water a couple of times and it drains a lot of water out of it after a short drive. When parked it doesn't leak water.
I once let the fan run for about 10 minutes and a lot of water leaked out from the front left tire side.
That is the engine air intake, Don't put it in there!!!!!
You might need to remove the blower motor to get into it:
You also need to locate the leak you have. Take what time and look with good lighting and mirrors while the engine is running if need be to find the leak.
October, 28, 2007 AT 8:54 PM
Your problem is a bad heater core. Replacing it I belive on your year.
AND DO NOT PUT IT IN THE AIR INTAKE
October, 28, 2007 AT 8:56 PM
Oh I see service writer just beat me to saying that is not the heater system intake.
October, 28, 2007 AT 8:58 PM
I heard ya typing! : Wink: As a clarification, the water is or is not dripping inside the car?
October, 29, 2007 AT 5:58 PM
Thanks for the quick replies.
There is no water dripping inside of the car, although I have noticed that the vents for the windshield will get foggy on the inside sometimes after it has been sitting a bit after driving.
I also noticed today that water was dripping out on the ground underneath the engine air intake area that Service Writer has pointed out, only after a very short drive.
I'm taking it to a mechanic today so well see how that will pan out. Hopefully I will still have my arms and legs after its fixed.
Ill update this thread later and maybe you guys can weigh in on the diagnosis. Thanks!
October, 29, 2007 AT 6:07 PM
Actually I pointed out the heater core area. What Blackop said was the source. And I'll second at this point : mrgreen:
October, 29, 2007 AT 7:05 PM
Lots of people describe the coolant as a musty smell : D so that made me think that and the loss of coolant. The fog on the windsheild is a dead giveaway
October, 31, 2007 AT 4:21 PM
Heard back from the mechanic and the heater core is the source of the smells, blackop555 called it. Mechanic said it's labor intense to replace and they are asking $850 to do so or $100 to bypass it. I'm going with a bypass.
They suggested some other work be done: Drive belt - 160
Brakes (Front rotors and pads) - 270
Sound like fair prices?
October, 31, 2007 AT 5:05 PM
Prices don't sound too bad, if they are using quality parts.
Not sure where you live, but you do know you will not have heat with the core bypasssed.
October, 31, 2007 AT 10:54 PM
What I would do with the heater core leak is I would try one of the name-brand radiator sealers first to see if it works, unless the core is split pretty good it may work for a while. As far as a drivebelt for 160, I've been buying my belts from advance or autozone, costs like 20-25 dollars, warranty isn't very long, however the belts have been lasting a good long time, I used to buy strictly Motorcraft belts, I can get 2 of the belts for that price, last just as long. Some Taurus belts can be changed with just a 1/2 drive ratchet end on the idler pulley arm, others require a special tool which can be purchased also at the autoparts store, not too much dollars. Probably do it yourself for 50 bucks the first go-round which would include the tool if you need it. As far as front pads and rotors, if your're handy you can do that too. Once again parts I use from Autozone, their housebrand rotor probably around 20-25 apiece, pads around 16 a set, tool to compress piston back into caliper 10 bucks or so, special socket end to unbolt caliper another 10 or so, save yourself 170 if you can do it yourself, that's at least a tankful of gas at today's prices, lol. Shoot me a message if you need any help, may take a day or two to respond