2001 Ford Taurus Trans Seal

Tiny
TED LEWIS
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
First: I made a small donation.

What a mess I got into.
The patient is a 2001 Ford Taurus SES, 3.0L OHV, Ax4s Trans. It needed a hub bearing, inner cv and ball loint on passenger side. After some false starts on parts I got it taken down and was all set to reassemble. Probably not a long process at that point.

Then I got really stupid. I had in my possession a replacement seal for the output shaft on the trans where the splines from the inner CV Joint go into the transmission. The old one seemed fine and dry but I thought it wasn't a bad idea to replace it.

I had not gotten my on line access yet so I referenced the local Haynes Manual I have. Bad mistake. It described a very easy process to remove the old seal. Can't be done.

At this point the old seal is wrecked from numerous removal attempts. Can't remove it. It appears I have to get a set of Ford Rotunda Tools to remove and reinstall the seal. This is expensive. If all it does is wipe out my savings on the work I'll be lucky.

All this is true, unless, unless the old seal can be pulled somehow with more common tools.

To add to the hilarity the manual and the online svc indicates a two piece seal As far as I can see it is a one piece sort of like a drum brake inner seal gone wild. The Haynes manual picture is not the same as the OEM seal.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/171040_DSCF0851_1.jpg



So, do I buy all those tools or is there an easier answer. Can I keep hacking at the old one without damaging the trans. case? The picture is of a new OEM seal from the dealer.
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Friday, March 21st, 2008 AT 1:06 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
You'll need the tool,as far as I can see, maybe a rental...Metal piece comes out first, then follow these steps...


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_AX4Sd_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_AX4Sa_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_AX4Sb_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_AX4Sc_1.jpg

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Friday, March 21st, 2008 AT 2:51 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MEMBER
Another trick that I use is to get a 10 dollar dent puller from parts store. You put a self tapping screw in the end of it then screw it into the seal, then lightly slide hammer it out, I do this all the time.
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Friday, March 21st, 2008 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
TED LEWIS
  • MEMBER
Thanks much Merlin-

In the end I think the correct tools will be the answer. I may make another, very careful, try or two without them. The tool cost is very high. On the other hand I am looking for alternative sources. Rental, difficult. Ebay, maybe. I think, notice the I think, the tools may fit older model trans. If that's the case they may be available via an auction site.

Tim, thanks also. Have you done this exact seal that way?

I did try a slide hammer puller going in the hole and pulling. I hammered as hard as I felt comfortable doing and the thing actually laughed at me. :) I think pulling on one point only may be the issue. Now I am thinking of making something that will go into the hole and bridge accross the entire seal That way I get an even pull, and just maybe it will move. The sheet metal screw thing is a good idea but given the amount of force it took previously--I wonder. The outer ring is not all that strong. It's the inside stuff that's very substantial. I am going to try to post a picture of the inside of the thing. If it posts you'll see the rubber part is over either a solid metal ring or a boxed shaped ring. In either case it's darn strong.

The bottom line here is, of course, do no damage to the trans case. The other thing that worries me is whether the Ford Tool will work if I butcher the seal any further.

It is amazing it's the really stupid stuff, and bad documentation, that messes up us poor ole amateur mechanics. I waited till I got into trouble to get the on line service. Major difference. This would not have happened.

Thanks again everybody.

Ted
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Saturday, March 22nd, 2008 AT 10:23 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MEMBER
I have not done that exact seal that way. You may very well need that tool. Another suggestion is to go to the transmission shop near you and ask them their opinion. Maybe offer then a few bucks and leave them a deposit on the tool and see if they will loan it to you. Its worth a shot. I know if someone came to my shop and were in a jam, id consider loaning them the tool if they offered to leave a deposit for it and give me a few bucks to borrow it.
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Saturday, March 22nd, 2008 AT 10:52 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
You might try the slide hammer attachment for rear axle bearings, it should grab two sides of the seal anyway.
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Saturday, March 22nd, 2008 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
ERECTILE DYSFUNCTIONAL
  • MEMBER
Removing the seal doesn't need the factory (Rotunda) puller. Just use a KD seal remover or else a long pry bar and or long needle nose pliers. Force the existing unit from the output shaft hole. This takes a little bit of doing and you first may need to dislodge the metal shield with the holes around the circumference. Some times you get the top metal shield off and the rubber inner seal with the garter off but not the remaining part of the seal and it will look reall snarley. Continue to force the remaining part of the metal backing of the old seal out of the hole until you have the smooth round surface of the transaxale case present. You should have tranny fluid leaking so use a pan to catch it.

Then you have to install the new seal. You can buy a seal installer from Lisle for anywhere from $65 to $90 or you can simply get a large socket wrench 1 1/4 or larger to fit over the new fluid seal. Attach a long socket extension to the socket and get a hammer. Position the seal in the whole put the socket with extension over and hit the extension with the hammer until the seal is in place. You'll know when it is installed properly when you don't have any more fluid leaking from the lower part of the seal.
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Sunday, May 4th, 2008 AT 11:46 PM
Tiny
TED LEWIS
  • MEMBER
Hey E.D. And all others.

Sorry for the delay in getting back.

The seal is out and the car is back on its feet. Other work still to be done. I'll post any of that as I run into trouble.

Actually got really mad at the thing. Mad enough to get the Ford tools. I know, they are too expensive. On the other hand even with that I still probably saved some $$ doing it mayself. The Ford tool ripped the outer part of the seal off in about 3 seconds. The innerr part was a bit damaged (by me) and the tool had some trouble with it. That I managed to start with the Rotunda thing and then stuck a slide hammer on it. Ok, so that part took about 30 seconds. Nice when you have everything you need:)

The next time I feel uncomfortable over a decision to do something I will step back and think a little longer. Had I done that to start with none of this would have happened. In the end, not much harm done and I am just a bit smarter now.

Again, thanks.

Tedd
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Tuesday, May 6th, 2008 AT 9:13 PM
Tiny
♥BROOKE♥
  • MEMBER
I had this same kinda problem but now I am all set, those pics that you post up really help! :)
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Monday, May 19th, 2008 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Brooke, do I know you from somwhere?
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Monday, May 19th, 2008 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
TED LEWIS
  • MEMBER
Hey Brooke, if you are speaking of my pictures, glad to help.

Just curious though. Were you able to get the thing out without the Ford tools? As you can see in the thread a lot of folks suggest it can be done without the Rotunda Tools. My problem of finishing it that way was pure fear of damaging the trans housing. Somehow I just didn't get all excited by the idea of pulling the trans out of the beasty. :)

Ted
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Monday, May 19th, 2008 AT 5:47 PM

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