1999 Ford Taurus oxygen sensor heater circuit

Tiny
ACES2604
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 154,000 MILES
Hi, I am attempting to figure out a problem for my father in law. He has been trying to get emissions done so he can renew his plates for a few months now. He took it in and they said he had a bunch of codes pop up. P1451, P0135, p0136, p0141, p0155, p0161, and p1000. Seeing everything say heater circuit, I check the obvious and found a fuse blown (thats Fuse #9 under the hood) replaced it and the light goes out, yeah! Solved the issue. Not. Shut it off start it again and it blows the fuse tryed it again thinking it was an isolated incident, nope. Okay, so now I'm thinking short or grounding issue. My question is the components, and locations for the circuit, where are they all located, and any ideas off the top of your head on what it could be (common issue)? Thanks ahead of time!
Saturday, August 1st, 2009 AT 5:29 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MECHANIC
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Give me a few minutes to look at the schematics
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Saturday, August 1st, 2009 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
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I'm showing the O2 sensors are powered through fuse #28, a 10 amp.

And that circuit also goes to the canister vent solenoid. Which would explain your P1451.

Now this next step is unplug the solenoid and all 4 O2 sensors,

and start and shut off the car a few times to verify that the fuse doesn't blow.

Now plug 1 thing in.
Start the car up a few times, and check the fuse.

Keep plugging them in, 1 at a time until you blow the fuse. Then you know which one is bad.
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Saturday, August 1st, 2009 AT 7:53 PM
Tiny
ACES2604
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Its actually popping a 15amp fuse not a 10, and its even listed in the manual at 15. So is there another fuse box under the dash that has one in there? Or are we on the same car? Its got the v-6 vulcan in it if that helps. Just trying to make sure. Would a bad sensor/canister vent actually pop the fuse though. I mean if the component was physically broken and grounding out I could see that but just for it being bad?
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 9:56 AM
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
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I looked at a Taurus LX, which sub model do you have and i'll look again.

And yes, the vent solenoid or the heating element in a sensor could be shorted
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
ACES2604
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It's the SE, real quick, the vent canister is underneath the spare in that plastic compartment?
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 11:44 PM
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MECHANIC
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You must have the 24 valve engine. It has a 15 amp fuse.

And yes the solenoid is listed as "below spare wheel well"
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Monday, August 3rd, 2009 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
ACES2604
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Okay, well I will start narrowing it down tomorrow, would have today but had a little plumbing issue in the house. Other than that, seems pretty straight forward, I will let you know what comes up, you really made this easy and simple, thanks again for all your help!
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Monday, August 3rd, 2009 AT 11:45 PM
Tiny
ACES2604
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Okay so I came to narrow it down to the most painful to get to of the bunch (figures lol). I have since ordered the part and received it today will go on tomorrow with a little luck, btw I don't know if it does make a difference but the oe part on the car has a square plug, the new sensor has a mostly square but round at the end plug, cant remember what the one on the car looked like specifically but I'm pretty sure it wasn't round. I thought they were universal, is that true? I mean if not no biggie, I will just splice the old connector with the new sensor.
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2009 AT 12:45 AM
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
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I dont know what plug you are talking about.
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2009 AT 1:45 AM
Tiny
ACES2604
  • MEMBER
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The question I should've asked was if there was a difference between the green connector and the blue, sorry. I found this out earlier actually while trying to get the old one out, I had no luck with that, and then I come to find I have the wrong sensor too. I bought the green one instead of the blue. Could I still splice those together? Also, I have soaked and sprayed and just near rounded this thing off and I think I am going to have to drop the pipe. Any hints on the sensor removal? I don't have a lift or impact wrenches so getting to things and getting them off is a pain. Thank you for your continued help!
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2009 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
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I have no clue of what you are talking about.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 1:47 AM
Tiny
ACES2604
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Their is a difference between the o2 sensors in the exhaust manifolds, and between the two right before the catylatic converters. The difference is in the connector, there is a blue one, and a green one, they have alignment pegs in different positions, this is what I found out yesterday.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
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Now I understand what you were saying about the color of the pigtail.
Why cant you return the new one and exhange it?

About removal.
Knock the top part of the sensor off with a hammer.
Then you can use a standard socket on it.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
ACES2604
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Thats what I'm in the process of doing at the moment actually. As for the hammer, I was thinking that but was unsure if it would damage the part and make it completely useless to try anymore, but will try probably tomorrow, today is a busy one so will let you know.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 1:39 PM

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