1997 Ford Taurus Car Slowed down and shut off by itself.

Thanks. Helped a few things.

In addition here is what I determined.

There is fuel to the injectors (got another fuel bath)

I visually looked at a spark plug while cranking, and no spark. However, I am going to check for spark using the method I saw on that video page -- Just need to get a tester.

Tried to start with some either. No luck.

So instead of fuel -- it looks like an electrical issue. Am I correct?

NOW, I do want to add this. From trying to start the car. The battery is starting to get low on juice. To me -- it seems like that happened too quickly. I only tried turning it over about 10-15 times tops. Could it be the alternator has gone bad and is not recharging the battery? Thats why it shut down and died and there just isnt enough juice to spark?

I think that IF the alternator is the problem -- I have another issue as well. But it just seems weird the battery would die so quickly.

BMRMRFIXIT, thank you for taking the time to help!

I determined I had a bad multimeter - so I walked to Home Depot and got one. I have 12v across battery. Which is not what I expected. But I tried to turn it over and it sounded like juice was back, but wouldn't start. The dying sound could have been just the repetitive attempts to start it up I guess.

I am thinking ignition coil module or crank sensor. I cant work on the car anymore today, but that will be the first place I go in the morning. Unless you have any other suggestions.

Dont have the funds for a reader right now. Lost my job a few months ago...and working on borrowed funds to fix, and relying on leg travel to auto store (6 miles round trip).

So, here is what I have now. Found the problem(s).

1st problem discovered. Camshaft Positioning Sensor -- destroyed.

2nd problem eith cause of first problem or result of 1st problem I don't know...damaged Camshaft Syncronizer. (some stores call it different names -- I have attached a photo of the part.

If you look at that picture -- there is a metal part at the top that parallels the body, where the sensor is attached. I hope that is clear -- but that part was bent.

I am thinking that one of the two parts wore out and destroyed the other. Probably the syncronizer. They are original parts.

So -- I replaced the syncronizer and the sensor. Theoretically -- I figured problem would be solved.

Reality -- still same problem. I am wondering:

1. Did it maybe throw an error to the computer and the computer is preventing the car from starting (maybe damage control?) I don't know -- I am not a mechanic -- and don't know if the computer would do such a thing. Like maybe the error needs to be cleared before the car will do anything.

2. There is yet another problem that I am not seeing.

I double and triple checked fuses -- attempted a jump start...and no improvement. Now it does sound like normal when you try and start it with a jump (it needed juice.) but it still just turns and doesn't start up.

I checked the coil earlier -- resistance checks (within/close to specs), and all showed OK. And I did have voltage to it.

You have any other ideas? I really don't want to take this to a garage.

Checking the coil -- here are my readings.

Primary Resistance:
SPECS:.5 ohm

My test:.9 ohm

Secondary Resistance
SPECS: 13,600 ohms

My test:
Coil 1: 13,310 ohms
Coil 2: 13,260 ohms
Coil 3: 13,440 ohms

I tested for voltage at the cable and got 12V

Correct me if I am wrong -- though not exact -- these readings are within specs.

Also, battery is fully charged exactly 12V. Car sounds like it is on a low battery -- like it needs a jump.