1993 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 127K miles
I was replacing my oil pan gasket on my 93 Taurus and had to remove the radiator fan in order to access a stud to get the flywheel dust cover off. I removed the fan from the top which required me to also remove the airbag sensor and the Integrated Controller Module.
To make a long story short, after putting everything back together, the car cranks but will not start. I can't hear the fuel pump kick on initially like it usually does and the radiator fan runs at full speed constantly when the key is in the " on" position.
Have you checked all the sensors to make sure you didn't miss pluging any back in? Like the coolant temp sensor or oil pressure sender or? Double check this first and let me know what you find and then we will go from there. Thanks.
April, 30, 2009 AT 11:41 AM
Yeah, checked, double checked and checked em again. The only thing I can think of is that relay module which sends power to the computer, the fan, ac clutch, and fuel pump. Maybe by moving it I dislodged some rust or corrosion and fried it somehow?
I also checked all the wires, they all seem snug as well. No cracks or broken connections as far as I can tell.
May, 1, 2009 AT 9:59 AM
Ok I will look over the wiring diagram for you car but I need some info first ok. I need to know what model of taurus like LX, LE or SHO etc. I also need to which V6 you have 3.0 ohv or 3.0 ohc or 3.8 ltr. Get back to me with that and I will go over the wiring and see where we should look for the problem ok.
May, 1, 2009 AT 10:53 AM
Sure, it's a 3.0 V6 OHV - Trim: GL.
May, 2, 2009 AT 8:38 AM
Ok I would like you to check the fuel pump relay in the fuse relay box under the hood and see if it is clicking when you turn on the key and weather or not it clicks when you try to start it. You will need help so have someone else either be touching the relay to feel it click or have them turn the key on and then try to start it as you feel for it to click. Also check the fuel pump inertia switch if you would. It is above the left (drivers side) wheel well unless it is a wagon then it is on the right side. It will be small and black with a red or white square button on it push the button then see if it will start. Let me know what you find here so we can figure out where to go from there.
May, 3, 2009 AT 12:24 PM
You know, there actually aren't any relays in the fuse box. All of the relays are in the power control relay module box. I got one of those from the junkyard for $15 and installed it and it's doing the same thing. The fuel pump inertia switch is closed so everything is OK there too. Still no start.
I unplugged the fan to see if I could hear anything else going on when the key is turned to the on position. I do hear something clicking under the hood and it sounds like a switch turning on, then off - a distinctive " tick, tock" sound.
I also put some dielectric grease on the sensor connectors and plugged them back in, which didn't help.
May, 3, 2009 AT 12:43 PM
There is a relay clicking in the ICRM, which is what I was hearing. A friend of mine could feel it clicking when I turned the key. I don't know if it's the fan relay or another one, but there is no way to know since you can't open the ICRM.
I also attempted to pull a code from the EEC-IV by using a test light and by using the check engine light. The check engine light actually doesn't come on at all even without hooking it up to the EEC-IV output.
I tested it with a test light too. With the engine off the test light stays on and when I turn the key on it turns off and stays off. No codes at all. There are other lights on the dash that turn on and then off like the airbag light etc. - Just as they normally do, but no check engine light.
May, 5, 2009 AT 10:19 AM
Ok the CCRM (constant control relay module) looks to be what we need to check. This is that box on the radiator support that you unpluged. It holds the high and low fuel pump relays inside. First in you fuse box inside the car you need to make sure that the PCM relay/fuel pump fuse is not blown, it should be 30 amp. If that is good then you need to use a digital mulit meter and make sure that the yellow wire and the black and orange wire at the CCRM have battery voltage these wires should be hot at all times. Then check the ignition coil fuse 10 amp in the fuse box. If that is good then check the red wire with the light green stripe at the CCRM for power with the key on engine off. Also here is a diagram of how to get codes with a test light and a paper clip. In the diagram they show a volt meter just use the test light in its place then you will see the single wire test lead next to the main test harness use a paper clip to jump to the signal return term in the diagram then when you turn the key on engine off you should see the engine light do its thing to give you codes.
May, 7, 2009 AT 2:07 PM
There's actually two yellows and two black and orange, there's also two brown and orange wires. All three of these pairs have positive voltage with the engine off.
All of the fuses check out OK.
The red/light green wire has negative charge with the engine off.
There are absolutely no codes whatsoever - the light stays off the entire time and does not blink at all. I assume that's not a normal thing.
I also pulled the fuse for the EEC module and tested both leads while the key is in the on position. BOTH LEADS CARRIED A POSITIVE CHARGE! I'm not sure why that is but the test light should only come on for one lead, not both right?
I know the problem is not the CCRM because I swapped it out for another one already. I have a feeling the computer either isn't getting power or is shot, the car acts exactly the same with the computer unplugged.
Thanks for all your help so far.
May, 7, 2009 AT 3:34 PM
Crank sensor is on lower right rear of engine, when you were down there removing the flywheel(torque plate) cover, you may have damaged it, or maybe pinched a wire. Does engine crank? Or do nothing?