2001 Ford Ranger pedal to floor only when truck engine running

2001 FORD RANGER
145 MILES • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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WESLEYMAC
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I replaced the front calipers and the master clylinder on my Ranger. The brakes had failed. I bled the rear brakes and went rr-rl-fr-fl and bled each brake 4 times. I still get a loose pedal to the floor when the engine is running. I bled the master clylinder. How I did a booster brake test by turning off the truck, pumping the brakes half a dozen times and then turning on the truck engine. The pedal doesnt "drop" a little then slowly rise a lil. It just goes down to the floor when pressed. The Brakes do engage but very little.
Everything I read says that the pedal should feel hard when braked if the vacuum booster is bad.
How do I check the brake booster and its vacuum line? Are there any special tools needed or procedures to change a brake booster - out to re-vacuumize the line to the master?
Apr 20, 2009 at 9:17 AM
Repair Safety Notice: This information is for general instructional purposes only. Vehicle repair can be dangerous. Verify all information, follow manufacturer service procedures, use proper tools and safety equipment, and consult a qualified repair shop when needed.
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MERLIN2021
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HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT (HCU) 1. Clean dirt from around master cylinder reservoir cap. Fill master cylinder reservoir with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Connect drain hose to right rear bleeder screw. Submerge other end of hose in clear container full of clean brake fluid. 2. Pump brake pedal, and then hold firm pressure on brake pedal. Loosen right rear bleeder screw until fluid flows from screw. Have an assistant maintain pressure on brake pedal while tightening bleeder screw. Repeat bleeding procedure until brake fluid flow is clear and free of bubbles. Refill master cylinder reservoir as necessary. 3. Tighten right rear bleeder screw and remove drain hose. Proceed to left rear, right front and left front wheels in sequence. Install New Generation Star (NGS) tester with Cable (007-00531) to Data Link Connector (DLC) located behind left side of instrument panel, and follow NGS tester instructions. Repeat bleeding procedure for all 4 wheels. © 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC. NOTE: Perform HCU bleeding procedure if HCU has been replaced or HCU brakelines have been disconnected. Page 1 of 1 ANTI-LOCK - 4WAL -2001 Ford Ranger 4/20/2009 http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/printart.aspx MANUAL BLEEDING Master Cylinder Bleeding (Bench) 1. Support brake master cylinder body in a vise, and fill both fluid brake master cylinder reservoirs with brake fluid. Install plugs in front and rear brake outlet ports. Bleed front brake system first. Loosen plug in front brake outlet port and depress primary piston slowly to force air out of master cylinder. 2. Tighten plug while piston is depressed or air will enter brake master cylinder. Repeat procedure until no air bubbles are present. Repeat bleeding procedure for rear brake outlet port with front brake outlet plugged. Tighten plugs and try to depress piston. Piston will not depress if all air is out of master cylinder. Master Cylinder Bleeding (On-Vehicle) 1. Using a line wrench, remove front brake tube and master cylinder outlet rear tube from master cylinder. Install short brake tubes in master cylinder and position them so they curve into master cylinder reservoir, and ends of tubes are submerged in brake fluid. 2. Fill master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid. Have an assistant pump brakes until clear, bubble-free fluid flows from both brake tubes. Remove short brake tubes and reinstall front brake tube and master cylinder inlet rear tube on master cylinder. Bleed each brake tube at master cylinder by having and assistant pump brake pedal 10 times and then hold firm pressure on brake pedal. 3. Loosen rearmost brake tube fittings until a stream of brake fluid comes out. Have an assistant maintain pressure on brake pedal until brake tube fitting is tightened again. Repeat procedure until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out from around tube fitting. Refill master cylinder reservoir as necessary. Repeat this bleeding operation at front brake tube fittings. Gravity Bleeding Fill brake master cylinder with new brake fluid. Loosen both wheel cylinder bleeder screws and leave them open until clear brake fluid flows. Check master cylinder reservoir fluid level often and do not let it run dry. Tighten wheel cylinder bleeder screws. One at a time, loosen caliper bleeder screws. Leave bleeder screws open until clear fluid flows. Check fluid level often. Tighten caliper bleeder screws. Manual Bleeding 1. Clean master cylinder cap and surrounding area. Remove cap. All models are equipped with dual- type master cylinder. Bleed primary and secondary systems separately. Loosen primary or secondary master cylinder hydraulic line fitting. See Fig. 1 . Fig. 1: Identifying Master Cylinder (Typical) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. NOTE: DO NOT allow reservoir to run dry during bleeding operation. 2. Wrap a cloth around brakelines to absorb escaping brake fluid. Slowly push brake pedal down to force out air. With pedal fully depressed, tighten fittings to prevent air from being sucked into master cylinder when pedal is released. Release pedal. 3. Repeat procedure until air is completely purged from master cylinder. When all air has escaped, tighten fittings with pedal down. Release pedal, and depress again. If pedal is not firm, repeat bleeding procedure. 4. Repeat procedure at bleeder fitting on rear anti -lock brake electrohydraulic RABS valve, each wheel cylinder and caliper. See Fig. 2 . See BLEEDING SEQUENCE table under BLEEDING SEQUENCE. When bleeding is complete, fill master cylinder to proper level. Fig. 2: Bleeding Wheel Cylinders (Typical) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. © 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.
VACUUM POWER BOOSTER 1. With a "T" fitting, connect vacuum gauge into vacuum line between engine and power brake booster. With engine at operating temperature, gauge should read 15-19 in. Hg vacuum at idle with transmission in Neutral. If reading is less than specification, stop engine, disconnect vacuum hose at power brake booster and cap open end of hose and open port of vacuum "T". 2. Start engine, and allow it to idle. If reading is still less than 15-19 in. Hg vacuum, engine is producing low vacuum and mechanical problem must be corrected. If vacuum is to specification, check plastic check valve, rubber grommet and vacuum hose connection at power brake booster. 3. With low engine vacuum corrected and/or leaking components replaced, start engine, and allow it to idle. Stop engine, and depress brake pedal for a few seconds. If vacuum drops to zero, booster is leaking and requires replacement. © 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC. Tips         Click a link to view tip Tech1 Question: stalling coming to a stop from 45-60mph Page 1 of 1 DISC & DRUM -2001 Ford Ranger 4/20/2009 http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/printart.aspx VACUUM BOOSTER CHECK VALVE 1. Remove vacuum booster hose from power brake booster and check valve connection. Manifold vacuum should be available at check valve end of vacuum booster hose with engine idling and transmission in Neutral. 2. Operate engine a minimum of 10 seconds at fast idle. Stop engine, and let vehicle stand for 10 minutes. Apply brake pedal with about 20 lbs. (9 kg) of force. Brake pedal feel should be same as that noted with engine operating. If brake pedal feels hard, replace check valve and retest. © 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC. Page 1 of 1 DISC & DRUM -2001 Ford Ranger 4/20/2009 http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/printart.aspx
Apr 20, 2009 at 10:28 AM
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WESLEYMAC
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Thank you guys. I did all that and the check valve was fouled(on the booster) with the old stuff from inside the vacuum line hose from the top of the engine. I cleaned it up with brake cleaner spray and put it back in and the booster then had enough vacuum. Also in re bleeding the lines and calipers I found a tiny leak sucking air into the sytem in left rear brake clylinder.(I also adjusted the brake pedal connection at the booster under the dash>
I used brake cleaner once again to id that and put a new brake clylinder on. I am going to go to the dealer tommorw and get a new vacuum lione hose to install.
Your advice helped me to stay organized about this project and gave me the insight I needed to diagnois
the real problem!
Apr 20, 2009 at 11:40 PM
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MERLIN2021
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OK your welcome, but check valves can be bought at almost any parts store.
Apr 23, 2009 at 1:51 PM