Brake pedal loose and noisy?

Tiny
FLYINGPORK
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 102,000 MILES
The Brake pedal seems to be connected to the clutch pedal. They both slightly move forward and back simultaneously. When depressing the brake, there is a loud airy noise coming from behind the pedal. I got the guide, to see what it might be, but doesn't tell me what to check first. What could it be.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2009 AT 7:21 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The noise is most lilkely coming from the brake booster. It is what provides power assist to the brakes and is run by engine vacuum. If it is bad or leaking, you will hear the sound you described.

You can test it with a vacuum tester. Basically, you create vacuum in the unit and see if it can maintain the pressure. If it drops, then replace the it.

Also I have seen the pedal carriage break causing both pedal to be pushed when just one is. The instructions to change it are in the diagrams below. Let me know if you have other questions.
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Wednesday, October 28th, 2009 AT 10:37 AM
Tiny
LCLABO
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD RANGER
  • 51,000 MILES
I have a 1998 Ford Ranger. When I push the clutch in the brake pedal engages as well as when I press the brake the clutch pedal engages. What could be causing this?
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
Check the brakes for a wheel or two hanging up. The two systems are completely separate. Activating one can't activate the other, unless you're pushing both pedals at the same time.

Let go of the wheel while shifting, does the truck want to pull one direction? If so, focus your inspection on that side.
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+1
Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STISD94944
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
:cry: I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT with 89000 miles. I took my truck to the dealer to have them determine why the dash light was on. They determined that my ABS computer was bad and needed to be replaced. After the repair ($700) I've noticed my brake pressure cycle between good to very weak. I took the truck back and they told me the computer has nothing to do with pedal pressure. They looked at it again and said all the cyclnders seals look good. They tough the problem might be from the rear brakes overheating due to bad emergency brake cables. They replaced the cables ($400) and lines in the rear and sent me home. The next day when I got in the truck the problem was still there. Brake pedal pressure is fine for a day or two then it will go all the way to the floor for about a day then go back to having good pressure. There is no air in the lines, the brake cyclinders dont seem to have a leak. What else might be the problems. I've had brake shops look at it and they cant find the problem. Please HELP!
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NOS
  • MEMBER
The only thing I can think of is the master cyclinder bypassing fluid once in a while I don't under stand why no one can find the problem. There has to be something wrong some where. Whitout seeing the truck myfriend my really best guess is the master cyclinder one time you push on brake it is good and next time maybe or maybe not it will work the master cyclinder does go the the ABS computer when you applie the break a motor kicks on in the valveing and keeps the pedel from being applied to hard. Have you ever tryed to lock the brakes down on this truck and feel the peddle bump against the bottom of your foot? Well that is the ABS taking over. So don't rule out the master cyclinder that is a cheaper fix to at least try than all the rest of that stuff. Man hope this helps youit sounds like you have been screwed over royaly and i'am sorry but it does happen all too man times.(NOS)
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STISD94944
  • MEMBER
Thank you very much! Are there tests I can run (or a brake shop) that will tell me if it is the mastercylinder or not?
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NOS
  • MEMBER
Well that is a good question. One thing to remember there are steel lines going to the master cyclinder so you can't clamp the lines off. But the lines going to the wheels are rubber. You will need three pairs of visegrips. On the front clamp the rubber hose going to the caliper on each front wheel not too hard though just enough so fluid won't pass by. Now go to the back behind the axel and look up on the driverside frame you will see another rubber hose it runs down to the axel to supply the rear brakes do the same thing clamp it off this will isolate all the wheels. Ok now press on the peddle is it real hard or does it drift down. If when you push on it and it goes all the way down replace the master cyclinder or if it is hard and you let it set for a bit and then push on it and it goes down replace the master cyclinder. Another thing the master cyclinder will do is leak fluid out the back of it and it runs down the booster if it is real wet at the backend of the master replace it because it will also get into the booster and ruine it. Not much more I can tell you now about that check that out first and get back to me.(NOS) 8)
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RICKYPETERS
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 190,000 MILES
When coming to a complete stop my brakes give out and it is very hard to push the brake pedal. I have changed all of the brake pads and rotors and this problem still continues. The brake light is on but the brakes are good. The truck slows down fine at higher speeds. This problem only happens at very low speeds, mostly when coming to a complete stop.
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • EXPERT
Hi rickypeters and TY for the donation

HARD BRAKE PEDAL:

Lack of power assist may be due to low engine vacuum, a leaky vacuum hose or a defective booster. Sometimes a faulty check valve will allow vacuum to bleed out of the booster causing a hard pedal when the brakes are applied. This condition can be diagnosed by starting the engine (to build vacuum), shutting it off, waiting four or five minutes, then trying the brakes to see if there is power assist. No assist means a new check valve is needed

Checking the brake booster:

A quick way to check the vacuum booster is to pump the brake pedal several times with the engine off to bleed off any vacuum that may still be in the unit. Then hold your foot on the pedal and start the engine. If the booster is working, the amount of effort required to hold the pedal should drop and the pedal itself may depress slightly. If nothing happens and the vacuum connections to the booster unit are okay, a new booster is needed (the vacuum hose should be replaced, too).
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RICKYPETERS
  • MEMBER
Its not an issue of the brake pedal being hard to push, when I come to a complete stop, sometimes it drops and almost quivers a bit like the antilock system is coming of, I was wondering if the abs sensors on the wheels(if there are any) would cause this, or is the abs control module itself could cause this. I have talked to quite a few people and this problem seems to be quite common for my year and make. If it could be the wheels sensors, where are they located? What about a speed sensor?
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • EXPERT
Check master cylinder could have an internal leak causing it to drop while being applied. Try rebleeding the system

Could also be air in the ABS modulator, wheel speed sensors out of range signals-Do you have an ABS warning light?
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOTT400F
  • MEMBER
I have the same problem just as you almost come to the stop the abs pumps and lets the truck roll forward and then comes to a stop. I was told probually a speed sensor there is one on the tranny and one on the rear diff is my understanding.
The one in fron is not cheap and the one on the back is under $20. Bucks but folks are leading me towrds the fro on which is expensive. My abs light has never came on or flickered only as it is upppose to on start up. I was wondering if a guy could pull the ABS fuse and see if it elminates the problem. I know ABS is gret but my pocket book is small right now.
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
IAMMONKU
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD RANGER
I have had the front brake pads, both rear wheel cylinders and the master cylinder replaced on my 1998 4 wheel drive ford ranger, the brakes are going to the floor
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Can you describe what is happening?
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
IAMMONKU
  • MEMBER
The truck does not stop when the brakes are applied. The pedal goes to the floor. It will pump up to about half a pedal with 3 or 4 pumps, but will go back to going to the floor after less than 30 seconds. The pedal goes to the floor rapidly with no resistance.
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Something in the MC is bypassing (even though it is new) or you have a rubber brake hose that is expanding. Also, make sure the rear brakes are properly adjusted and the brakes were properly bled. Check for any leaks too expecially the flex hose to the rear axle.
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
IAMMONKU
  • MEMBER
Thanks. Will do as you have advised and then get back to you.
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Let me know what you find.
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GLENN CALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • FORD RANGER
I have a 1996 Ranger 4WD 3.0 auto, when the truck is almost stopped the anti-lock brake motor comes on and the brakes feel mushy and the brake pedal acts like you're in a panic stop.
The brakes have just been done and there is no errror code in the computer, other than this feeling at about dead stop the brakes work great, any ideas what may be causing this problem?
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
IT sounds like an Anti-lock brake issue. The best of troubleshooting this is to monitor the speed sensor with a scanner capable of doing so. Watching for the signals to drop out when the problem happens.

I have seen quite a few speed sensors go bad that is located on the rear differential. The abs unit will see no signal and think that wheel is not moving, but locked up. So it will engage the abs functions.
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)

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