4 wheel drive not working

Tiny
SONNYB130
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 11,000 MILES
My Truck has manually locking hubs, and when they are engaged it makes a slow steady "Bump" noise. When I engage 4 wheel drive it lurches and clangs really bad around corners. It seems to drive ok while straight. I was thinking a bad U joint or something but I'm not really sure. Thanks for your help.
Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 7:16 AM

43 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,837 POSTS
I would start by removing and disassemblying the hubs. They get dirty and the grease dries out and things stick. Start with that. Also, if you hear the clicking in 2wd, check the CV joints.
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Monday, March 1st, 2010 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
BUCKEYE281
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
I recently purchased this truck assuming the 4WD worked. After a couple times engaging the 4WD, the transfer case motor failed. I replaced it, and according to the dash light the transfer case engaged. Unfortunately the front wheels were not pulling. Last night I was spinning the front drive shaft trying to diagnose the problem, the driveshaft would spin freely while not engaged, as I assume it should. It appears the differential is OK, but I am not sure. The drivers side drive axel spins with the drive shaft, but not the passengers side. Is this normal, or is this side possibly froze up? If it is normal, I assume the hubs are shot. Any advice would be great. Thanks.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
If one of the front axles does not lock to the wheel--Even in 4X4, all power to the front is transferred to the least resistance. Thus freewheeling the "loose" axle fruitlessly inside the unlocked wheel (unless your front diff. Is positive traction--you will then be in 3 wheel drive!) Remove and clean the hubs, you might get over, on Ole Murphy! The Medic
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCHIESS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
Other Category problem
1994 Ford Ranger V6 Four Wheel Drive Manual 178000 miles

I've been having engaging my 4x4 in my ranger. When I push the button on the dash, it would normally light up after a second and I could hear a little buzz noise and I could feel the 4x4 engage, and the 4x4 light would light up. Now when I push the button, the light doesn't turn on and the 4x4 won't turn on. I put some dielectric grease on the electric connection behind the transfer case, but to no avail, if you could suggest something for me to do that would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FSTRANGER302
  • MECHANIC
  • 117 POSTS
Sounds like you have a prblem with the motor for the transfer case. Probalyl going bad or is bad. Should start there hope it helps let me know pat
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KORNDSOILGRODOPE
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
When you engage thee 4x4 listen for the silinoid module that is located behind the stereo in thee dash you will hear clicking, and another question when you engage 4x4 and leave it in does the 4hi 4low lights come on and flash occasionally? If it is the transfer case motor I would think you could be able to take a test llight on the power plug to it to see if it is even getting power but you would need to be under with the light ready and someone turning the 4x4 switch to try this so try these methods first and get back to me
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NITTANITA
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
Engine Performance problem
1994 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

Hi

This is my third question I am writing about, never did received a answer on the second question. I check the module it check out good. I did the step like you told me to do. What is next to check?

Thanks
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
OK sorry I did respond but you must of not recieved it for some reason anyway here is the next step. This test is done on the 5 pin harness at the module. You will unplug the 5 pin harnes and follow the instructions below and there is a pic of what pin is what ok. After the test let me know what you find so we can go to the next step.
1) connect ohm meter between term 1 and 2 and then press and hold the 4x4 switch and you should get 50 ohms.
2) connect ohm meter between term 1 and 3 and press the low range switch and you should get 50 ohms.
3) Now make a jumper wire that you can use to put between term 4 and a good ground, turn the key on engine off and the 4x4 in the instrument cluster and the low range 4x4 bar should light up. Turn key off and remove jumper wire.
4) Now connect the jumper wire between term 5 and ground and turn key on engine off the 4x4 in the instrument panel and the 4x4 bar should light up. Let me know what you find and and we will go to the next step after this.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_106.jpg

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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NITTANITA
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I did the second step with the module. Check out good. I also took motor down, I had it hanging down someone press the 4x4 buttom. The motor spin, then I engage 4x4 manually by hand and front wheel still did not spin the truck was off the ground.
What next? Do you think this is something that can cost a lot of money.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Don't know if it will cost alot yet haven't found the problem yet. I do replace the 4x4 shift motors alot the one on the transfer case and they run about 150 anyway lets test the 8 pin connector at the motor I will walk you through the steps and include a pic so you know what pin is what ok.
1) key off connect your ohm meter between term 1 and ground (with automatic trans put in neutral) should read less then 50 ohm's.
2)Now connect you ohm meter between term 2 and 3 it should read between 200 to 350 ohms. Now repeat this step between terms 8 and then term 4 then 8 and 5 then 8 and 6 then 8 and 9 resistance should be between 200 and 350 ohms at each step. If not then the speed sensor needs to be replaced. Here is the pic for this test.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_113.jpg



Now it this pans out then here is a test on the the other 8 pin connector at the module.
1) Key off connect your volt meter between 8 and gound you should see battery voltage.
2)Now connect meter between term 7 and gound and turn key on should see battery voltage. Turn key off.
3) Set back to ohms and connect between term 6 and ground should be less then 10 volts. Now connect between term 4 and 5 should also be less then 10 ohms.
4)Connect between 3 and ground then between 2 and ground both should read 0 ohm.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic1_24.jpg

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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NITTANITA
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hi

Check out the module, like you to say to do and everything check out good. What I did do next I took truck off the ground with jack stands. I put it into 4x4, the front shaft starts to turn, but the shafts coming out of front tranfer case does not make the front wheels turn. I don, t know what to do next, everybody say they will look at it, but it will cost me. Need help anything else to check?

Thanks
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • 115,000 MILES
1994 Ford Ranger 4x4 mileage: 115,000. I have a problem with the four-wheel drive on my Ranger. One day I was using the four-wheel drive and realized that only the two back tires were pulling. Also, there was some (rattling) noise coming from the front passenger side wheel (even after the 4 wheel drive was disengaged). I have since taken off the front wheels to check out the automatic locking hubs to see if there was something wrong with them. One hub looked a little suspicious like some of the metal had been worn down inside. I then jacked the truck up off of all four wheels so that I could engage the four-wheel drive to see what was actually pulling and what was not. The back two wheels were both pulling. The front on the other hand was not. The drive shaft leading from the transfer case would engage but the shafts leading to the wheels were barely even spinning. You could stop them from spinning by holding them still. My question is do you think that the hubs are bad and I need to replace them, or is something messed up in the "gear housing". I know you really can't know for sure from my description but if you have any advice that you think I could use, it would be greatly appreciated.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Ok if you have done all the steps above and all checked out as it should then the 4x4 shift motor on the back of the transfer case needs to be replaced. Let me know if something did test right. It is very important that you do all the steps as discribed. Thanks and let me know how it goes.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
The automatic locking hubs seem to be a high maintenance item on these Ford Rangers. Yours may need to be replaced.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NITTANITA
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

Hi
I did all the tests you told me to do, Module checks out good, motor is good, also put new speed sensor still does not engage. I read there is a vacum hose might need to be replaced, can you tell where this is locate. I don, t know what to check after that, The hubs look good.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Now there is no vacuum for this version of the 4x4 system. In 95 they started that. Now if you want we can walk through some tests but it will start with ohming the speed sensor (the one on the top of the rear differetial) then it will move to the module tests as these are the common problem for this system. Get back to me with what you would like to do.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVIN LYONS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 97,000 MILES
On 3-4-09 my 4x4 engaged fine. No noises in hubs in snow. It is a push button control 4x4 switch on the dashboard that lights up it no longer does that. Also tried engagaging in neutral gear and park with no sucess. Need help.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BEELER78
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Check and make sure the transfer case wires are still hooked together. They might have came unhooked. You will be able to see the wires under the truck if they are undone.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID LANDSHUT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 10,000 MILES
The 4x4 will not engage. When I push the button on the dash I hear a clicking noise comming from a small box behind my seat. And the 4 wheel light also does not come on at that time. It was working when I went down through an old grade stayed a while to hunt and when I needed to come back out it would not work. What do you think?
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Ok let have the truck do a self test on the system. You need to locate the 4x4 module it is located to the left of the speaker on the right side in the instrument panel. Once you found it you need to unplug the 5 pin and 8 pin connector from the module. Now turn the key on engine off does the 4x4 light flash or is one steady. Let me know what you find and we will take it from there.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 7:33 PM (Merged)

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