1994 Ford Ranger Engine Electrically Stalls under one speci

Tiny
WILLIAM L GRAVES
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
This truck travels a 220-mile weekly round trip between 5000-ft and 10,000-ft elevation. To pull 4.5-7% grades it is shifted into 2nd and the engine operates at about 4700-rpm. Often, at some random time the tach and speedo will peg out on the high side then the engine dies (Note engine does not rev up at all). Sometimes the engine restarts on its own and other times you need to coast to the roadside. Turn key off, turn key on and then start. The engine will restart. Some times this situation will be repeated on the same or next hill. Other times it will not repeat until the next trip.

I don't know if it is related but the ABS and the brake service light remain on. The brake system is new but the shop could not reset these brake lights.
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Monday, March 22nd, 2010 AT 4:30 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
If it's the speed sensor, it could be affecting both, read the ABS codes like this, the connector is either on the left footwell below the parking brake pedal, or behind the right kickpanel.
Ensure ignition switch is in RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Locate Black test connector. See COMPONENT LOCATIONS. Connector has 2 mating halves. One has a Black/Orange wire; other has a Red wire. Disconnect connector. Connect jumper wire to connector terminal with Black/Orange wire. Ground other end of jumper wire for 2 seconds. When ground circuit is completed then broken, Yellow REAR ANTI-LOCK warning light will flash trouble code. Code will repeat until ignition is turned off. Code consists of a number of short flashes followed by one long flash. Count each flash, short and long, to determine code number. For example: short, short, long, is Code 3. Perform appropriate code test after retrieving code. A Code 16 indicates system is operating properly. If Yellow light does not flash, go to TEST D - YELLOW LIGHT CHECK OKAY, BUT DOESN'T FLASH TROUBLE CODE under PRE-CHECK TESTS.
Post the code(s). We can look up the testing after you get me the codes.
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 1:02 PM
Tiny
WILLIAM L GRAVES
  • MEMBER
I found the black connector with the orange/black wire and the red wire. Upon unhooking the wire connector the red brake and amber ABS light on the dash began to cycle correctly even with engine running. However I was unable to get a blinking light code. I could not figure out how conduct the Test D.

At any rate I haven't gained any ground on the problem. On the way home under normal city driving I had to break somewhat hard once causing both the red and amber brake dash lights came back on and stayed on.

What next please.

Updated 3/23/2010
As soon as I disconnected the terminal pair the orange ABS and red Brake warning lights went out.

I went ahead and grounded the orange/black wire side for a couple seconds with no results (lit or blinking lights) anywhere.

With connector disconnected and lead not grounded I turned off ignition.
When I turned the ignition back on - the red brake light comes on momentarily while the orange ABS light stays lit until some servo motor completes its cycle.

So I go to Test D under PRE-CHECK TESTS but I cannot locate the PRE-CHECK TESTS nor Test D.

Back to you, thanks, Bill

Further information: I reconnected the orange/black to red wire connector.
Once again the ABS orange and the red brake lights remain on.

These lights working properly only concerns me if they are related to the engine stall problem. Thanks, again, Bill
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Bill on the differential look on top, clean all dirt and debris, then replace the sensor, it's the RABS(rear antilock brake) sensor. This is the most common failure on Ford trucks of this brake system. It may also solve the stall problem. Check your system for leaks, or low fluid in the master if the red light stays on. After you replace the sensor, clear the codes like this.
CLEARING CODES To clear codes stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM), turn ignition switch to OFF position while diagnostic connector halves are separated. Reconnect diagnostic connector to provide power to KAM.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2010 AT 2:02 PM

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