1997 Ford Probe no spark

The most likely is the crank sensor, it is located
under hood, passenger side, lower engine area, above crankshaft pulley, mounted in engine block

Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor wire harness plug.

Connect an ohmmeter to the sensor terminals A and B and measure the resistance.

Crankshaft position sensor connector terminals. Measure the resistance across the A and B terminals

Measure the air gap between the crankshaft position sensor and the crankshaft pulley

# The reading should be 520-580 ohms at 68 °F (20 °C).

If not as specified, replace the sensor.

Measure the air gap of the sensor between the crankshaft pulley and the sensor.

Proper air gap should be 0.040-0.080 in. (1-2 mm).

If not as specified, inspect the crankshaft pulley and/or replace the sensor.
if the sensor is good, either the ignition switch or module is bad.

Hello devinia

The resistance is pretty close. Let diagnose somewhere else.

Check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on'
If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor(is good), ignition module(is in the distributor) or primary wiring circuit(check this one))
If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit

If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.
If you have a scan tool, plug it into the vehicle diagnostic connector and look for an rpm signal when cranking the engine. No signal? The problem is either a bad distributor pickup, a stripped distributor drive gear.

Hello devinia

Here is how to check the coil.

Disconnect the distributor wire from the coil.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil.

Check the resistance of the ignition coil primary by connecting an ohmmeter to both electrical terminals on the coil.

Check the resistance of the ignition coil secondary windings by connecting an ohmmeter to coil positive terminal and the coil-to-distributor wire tower terminal.

The resistance should be as follows:
Primary coil winding-0.81-0.99 ohms.
Secondary coil winding-10-15 kilo ohms.

Note: You did replace the coil before and it still didnt work so you returned it. The coil must be good.
If there is voltage at the positive terminal, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).
If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor
If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit)

If there is no spark at the coil and there is power going to it, means the coil is bad.To prove that we need to check its resistance.
PRIMARY COIL WINDING RESISTANCE
Detach the coil pack wire harness connector.

Connect an ohmmeter to terminals A and B and record the reading.
Connect an ohmmeter to terminals C and B and record the reading.

The resistance specification is 0.45-0.55 ohms
if any of the readings are not within specification, replace the coil pack.

SECONDARY COIL WIRE RESISTANCE

# Label and detach the spark plug wires from the coil pack.

# On 2.0L engines, measure the resistance between the spark plug terminals as follows:

1. Connect an ohmmeter to terminals 1 and 4 and record the reading.

2. Connect an ohmmeter to terminals 2 and 3 and record the reading.

The resistance specification is 11.5-15.5k ohms

If any of the readings are not within specification, replace the coil pack

Hello devinia

You should replace parts only when testing show that they are not within specification.
Using a feeler gauge measure the air gap between the crankshaft pulley and the crank sensor
It should be be 0.040-0.080 in. (1-2 mm).
Make sure it is getting fuel, and the compression is good (should be tested)
The ignition switch should also be checked.

HELLO devinia

The first step is to simply turn on the ignition switch and measure the power input to the coil. You will have 12V with the ignition switch in the start position and 6V with the ignition switch in the run position. If you do not have power into the coil, you have a fault between the ignition switch and the coil. This could be either the ignition switch or the wires. Use the ohm meter function to test the wires by connecting one probe to each end. On a good wire, you will read zero resistance and a bad wire will read infinite resistance.
Another method is to use the volt meter function and find out where the volts stop. Remove the steering wheel cowl and check the brown wire for current. If it does not show current, you have bad power input to the ignition switch. If you have good power input, check the various terminals of the ignition switch for power through the switch.