1997 Ford Probe no spark

Tiny
DEVINIA
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD PROBE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
My 97 ford probe 4 cyl didnt have any spark one day and I spent forever trying to figure it out. I replaced the coil and it still didnt work so I returned it. I eventually bought a donor car that was a 94 probe and I put that distributor in my 97 and it fired right up. I drove it for about a week then I turned it off and it wouldnt start again 30 minutes later. It wasnt getting any fuel now and I thought it was the fuel pump so I changed that so now its getting fuel but no spark now. Please help I am about to my wits end with this car. Thank you
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 3:44 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
The most likely is the crank sensor, it is located
under hood, passenger side, lower engine area, above crankshaft pulley, mounted in engine block

Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor wire harness plug.

Connect an ohmmeter to the sensor terminals A and B and measure the resistance.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c15280261243_1.jpg


Crankshaft position sensor connector terminals. Measure the resistance across the A and B terminals


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c15280261244_1.jpg



Measure the air gap between the crankshaft position sensor and the crankshaft pulley

# The reading should be 520-580 ohms at 68 F (20 C).

If not as specified, replace the sensor.

Measure the air gap of the sensor between the crankshaft pulley and the sensor.

Proper air gap should be 0.040-0.080 in. (1-2 mm).

If not as specified, inspect the crankshaft pulley and/or replace the sensor.
if the sensor is good, either the ignition switch or module is bad.
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Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010 AT 10:08 AM
Tiny
DEVINIA
  • MEMBER
I checked the resistance across A and B and it was 514 ohms but it wasnt 68 degrees its pretty cold and I dont hav a garage to warm it up. Could that still be the problem or is that about right for the tempurature? Thank you
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Monday, February 8th, 2010 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
Hello devinia

The resistance is pretty close. Let diagnose somewhere else.

Check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on'
If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor(is good), ignition module(is in the distributor) or primary wiring circuit(check this one))
If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit

If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.
If you have a scan tool, plug it into the vehicle diagnostic connector and look for an rpm signal when cranking the engine. No signal? The problem is either a bad distributor pickup, a stripped distributor drive gear.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2010 AT 1:47 AM
Tiny
DEVINIA
  • MEMBER
I checked to coil and there is voltage going to it, there is no spark at the coil. I replaced the distributor/ ignition module and there is still nothing. What else could it be? How do you check the coil to see if its good?
Thank you for all your help
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Thursday, February 25th, 2010 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
Hello devinia

Here is how to check the coil.

Disconnect the distributor wire from the coil.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil.

Check the resistance of the ignition coil primary by connecting an ohmmeter to both electrical terminals on the coil.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c15280261012_2.jpg



Check the resistance of the ignition coil secondary windings by connecting an ohmmeter to coil positive terminal and the coil-to-distributor wire tower terminal.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c15280261012_3.jpg



The resistance should be as follows:
Primary coil winding-0.81-0.99 ohms.
Secondary coil winding-10-15 kilo ohms.

Note: You did replace the coil before and it still didnt work so you returned it. The coil must be good.
If there is voltage at the positive terminal, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).
If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor
If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit)
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Thursday, February 25th, 2010 AT 11:48 PM
Tiny
DEVINIA
  • MEMBER
Well there is no spark at the coil and there is power going to it. The ignition module has been changed with the distributor, the crank sensor is good, so what is the "pickup' and the "primary wiring circuit" and how do I check those?
Thank you
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Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
If there is no spark at the coil and there is power going to it, means the coil is bad.To prove that we need to check its resistance.
PRIMARY COIL WINDING RESISTANCE
Detach the coil pack wire harness connector.

Connect an ohmmeter to terminals A and B and record the reading.
Connect an ohmmeter to terminals C and B and record the reading.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c15280260f9b_1.jpg



The resistance specification is 0.45-0.55 ohms
if any of the readings are not within specification, replace the coil pack.

SECONDARY COIL WIRE RESISTANCE

# Label and detach the spark plug wires from the coil pack.

# On 2.0L engines, measure the resistance between the spark plug terminals as follows:

1. Connect an ohmmeter to terminals 1 and 4 and record the reading.

2. Connect an ohmmeter to terminals 2 and 3 and record the reading.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c15280260f9d_1.jpg



The resistance specification is 11.5-15.5k ohms

If any of the readings are not within specification, replace the coil pack
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Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
DEVINIA
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Ok well I changed the coil and the distributor/ignition module, the crank sensor's resistance is within specs and I honestly can't think of what else it could be. Any other suggestions?
Thank you so much for all your help
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Saturday, February 27th, 2010 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
Hello devinia

You should replace parts only when testing show that they are not within specification.
Using a feeler gauge measure the air gap between the crankshaft pulley and the crank sensor
It should be be 0.040-0.080 in. (1-2 mm).
Make sure it is getting fuel, and the compression is good (should be tested)
The ignition switch should also be checked.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2010 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
DEVINIA
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How do you check the ignition switch?
Thank you
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Monday, March 8th, 2010 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
HELLO devinia

The first step is to simply turn on the ignition switch and measure the power input to the coil. You will have 12V with the ignition switch in the start position and 6V with the ignition switch in the run position. If you do not have power into the coil, you have a fault between the ignition switch and the coil. This could be either the ignition switch or the wires. Use the ohm meter function to test the wires by connecting one probe to each end. On a good wire, you will read zero resistance and a bad wire will read infinite resistance.
Another method is to use the volt meter function and find out where the volts stop. Remove the steering wheel cowl and check the brown wire for current. If it does not show current, you have bad power input to the ignition switch. If you have good power input, check the various terminals of the ignition switch for power through the switch.
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Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 AT 1:48 AM
Tiny
DEVINIA
  • MEMBER
Well there is power to the coil, I checked to see if fuel was going through the injectors and its not, the injectors are good and it is getting fuel to the injectors but they are not firing. There is no spark at the coil, the cam position sensor in the distributor is good and the spacing and resistance is good at the crank sensor. Any suggestions?
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Tuesday, June 29th, 2010 AT 11:35 AM

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