Engine Mechanical problem
1993 Ford Probe 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 230000 miles
I have this old Probe for a gas mileage car. It's always run a bit rough especially at idle speed but never cut out. But lately it did cut out and then won't start until I turn the key off and pump the gas for a bit. I'm seeing the fuel cut off light flicker before it dies. So, I thought maybe fuel pump. I tried the reset switch in the hatch. Nothing was tripped. I checked the fuel pump relay and swapped it with another. No luck. It runs pretty good at start up but after it gets warmed it'll start knocking and now does the cut out. Could it be fuel pump or maybe bad/dirty injectors? Maybe fuel filter? If fuel pump, I have to drop the tank to fix right. Any thoughts would be helpful. I'm donating $5 to your site. Thanks guys,
Yes you will have to drop the tank to replace the pump. But first lets check a couple of other things. Fuel pressure regulator, and ignition. You can always check the injectors with noid lights /they're little led lights that flicker with injector pulse. Im gonna send you a couple of links so you can check those other things I mentioned
The other thing you might want to look at, are there any codes? Check engine light on or flashing? Also test that inertia switch, it could be the reason the fuel keeps shutting down. Where does the KNOCK sound like it's comming from? The lower part of the engine, or the upper? Your knock sensor could be shutting the engine down, if you already have a mechanical problem with the motor, it will have to be repaired!
April, 28, 2008 AT 8:25 AM
Thanks guys. I'm going to check that ignition and fuel pressure first and get you some answers. BTW, the engine light does flicker on and off sometimes when driving. Not sure whether the knock is lower or upper in the motor but I'll check. And, if that inertia switch is tripping wouldn't it stay tripped until I pressed it? It wasn't tripped when I checked it.
April, 28, 2008 AT 1:12 PM
This is to TEST the inertia. If it.S not functioning correctly it will do strange, not predictable things!
April, 28, 2008 AT 1:21 PM
Clearing codes, Carb models: Disconnect negative battery cable for ten seconds.
FI Models: Disconnect negative battery cable for ten seconds then press brake pedal five times.
May, 12, 2008 AT 12:38 PM
I tested a few things. I changed the inertia switch (because it was easy) and the car started and then cut out again. So, I ruled that out. I couldn't find the fuel pressure testing port to check pressure but do smell fuel and see the plugs are wet. But, now after messing with this I can't get it to start at all anymore. I checked for spark and it has nothing at all now. I'm thinking that distributor (with the built in coil and module might be dead. I did double check that plugged everything back in correctly. What do you think? If I do change that distributor out out, is there a way to make sure that dist. Shaft is at the correct starting point (top dead center) to be sure the timing is on?
May, 12, 2008 AT 2:09 PM
I almost forgot, is there any way to test that Probe distributor to see if it actually is the problem before I buy one? Kind of stuck with it if I do buy it. Or, is there a good way to test the ignition to get a better idea of where the problem lies?
May, 15, 2008 AT 12:41 PM
Need the engine size for specific tests, other than the common test for spark, also if gas is not the problem, remove the fuel pump relay so you don't fill the motor with it!