1990 Ford Probe 90 Ford Probe won't start

Tiny
KATOO32
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 FORD PROBE
Engine Mechanical problem
1990 Ford Probe 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 90k miles

I have a 1990 Ford Probe Gt.

I was out driving when the engine cut off. I tried to restart and it wouldn't. I checked to make sure I was getting a spark and I was. Next I checked if I was getting fuel and I wasn't. I changed the Fuel pump relay and the fuel pump and it still won't start. I have not idea where to go from here.
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Sunday, July 25th, 2010 AT 6:52 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Do you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn key On? If so check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel pump. If not check the inertia switch Behind left rear interior trim panel-let me know
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 12:12 AM
Tiny
KATOO32
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The fuel pump does not come on and the intercia switch is ok.
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Power the fuel pump direct from the battery and see if it will fire up
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
KATOO32
  • MEMBER
I got my meter out and I checked if I was getting 12v to the fuel pump. I"m only getting 8v to the fuel pump and it doesn't come on. When I removed the pump out of the tank I gave it 12v from the battery and it came on. What would be the cause of me only getting 8v from my fuel pump relay?
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check the inertia switch both side-if you stiil getting the same voltage

The caused of the 8volts is due to voltage drop between the power source and fuel pump

Your power to the fuel pump comes from the airflow meter test the light green wire on it for battery voltage
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
KATOO32
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I have 3 wires coming into the inertia switch Blk WR BG

The BG in hot at all times even with the key off. And I get nothing to the WR no matter what the key position. And of course the Blk is a ground. That dosn't sound right to me. Why would I have a constant hot wire to the inertia switch. Now I"m really confused. I'll check the power at the airflow meter next.
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Leave the key on and disconnect the fuel pump connector check for power on both white and red do you have it
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 9:06 PM
Tiny
KATOO32
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Yes, that's were I checked and got the 8v reading from.
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 9:11 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
At the same connector test both white and yellow, what do you have
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
KATOO32
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Im sorry I gave you some bad info. At the WR get nothing. At the WY I get the 8v
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 9:23 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Replace the airflow meter that's where your voltage drop is coming from
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 9:30 PM
Tiny
KATOO32
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I'l give it a try and donate some more if that solves it. If not be prepared for more questions. Lol

Thank You
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Do this check for power on the red and black both of them on the airflow meter while disconnected-let me know
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 9:41 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Give me your email addy and I'll attempt to give the EEC wiring diagram
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 9:46 PM
Tiny
KATOO32
  • MEMBER
11.9v on the red and blacks
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
KATOO32
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Katoo32@msn. Com
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 10:05 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Is this with key on? If so The airflow meter belongs in the trash can.
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 1:28 AM
Tiny
KATOO32
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Yes, that was with the key on
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
KATOO32
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One more question before I replace the airflow. I'm only getting power to the fuel pump while cranking the engine over. Nothing with the key on. Am I not supposed to be getting power with the key on? And if so where from? The engine fuse. Start signal. Or air flow?
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Sunday, August 1st, 2010 AT 3:20 PM

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