2004 Ford F-150 Truck stuck in park

Tiny
PACECLASSA
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  • 2004 FORD F-150
Electrical problem
2004 Ford F150 V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

The truck is stuck in park and, although I removed the keys, there is a very fast "clicking" sound and all the lights (interior and exterior) flash in unison with the the "clicking". It seems elctrical but I don't know. I removed the cables from the battery to stop all the lights flashing, but I can't start teh truck or get it out of park. Any suggestions?
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Saturday, April 19th, 2008 AT 11:31 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
PEAR69
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Check all the fuses for a blown fuse, especialy fuse #13.
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Sunday, April 20th, 2008 AT 2:49 AM
Tiny
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OK. Connected battery backup and clicking is still happening, it sounds like it is coming from the passenger side against the firewall where a whole bunch of electrical connectors connect to some sort of box.

I checked the fuses and they look good - but I haven't tested them on a meter. Fuse #13 is for climate control, are you sure that is the offendiong one? Could it be a relay of some sort?
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Sunday, April 20th, 2008 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
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OK, every fuse checked good and I pulled all the relays out and reseated them. Here is what I get. There are two sets of cables that connect to the positive battery cable. One has a small round connector (goes on top of the post) and runs under the intake at the front of the engine. No issues when I connect it back up.

The other has a larger flat end and goes on the bottom of the post. When I connected it back up I get a clicking sound and what sounds like a short coming somewhere under the intake - near the throttle? I am not a mechanic so I am guessing now. The set of wires runs down under the batter along the right fender.

Finally, the sterring wheel isn't locked and won't lock when I turn the sterring wheel. Interesting?

Does that help? Would this be covered under my extended warranty?
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Sunday, April 20th, 2008 AT 11:05 AM
Tiny
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One last note. I figured out the wires I disconnected somehow have to do with the starter. Disconnected and reconnected battery cables. Gave the battery a jump, put the key in and put it to "on". Clicking stopped and all the guages, lights etc. Work normally.

Seems the clicking was the starter? Anyway, tried to start the truck. Tried to turn over once or twice and then. Clicking from the starter and all the guage needles dropped below the lowest level and started "vibrating". Took key out and put back in and put in "on" position, clicking stopped and all guages went back to normal.

Relay? Celenoid on the starter? Anyway, truck still won't come out of park, but if I don't try to start it, it won't become freaky truck.

Thanks for any input.
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Sunday, April 20th, 2008 AT 2:15 PM
Tiny
PEAR69
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Check the voltage on the battery. It should be around 14 volts with the engine running and around 12.5 volts with the engine off. If it is below 12 volts with the engine off then you have a bad battery. The clicking sounds like a low battery.
There may also be a bad starter solonoid, or a corroded ground on the starter. If you have an extended warranty I suggest taking it in to the dealer.
Sorry about the fuse #13 information. This fuse in an older ford will cause the shifter not to work.
Also, check the neutral safty switch on the tranny. It may be corroded or broken.
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Sunday, April 20th, 2008 AT 10:17 PM
Tiny
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Whatever it is drained the battery, but it happens even when I jump the battery with another vehicle. I will replace as a precaution.

Sounds to me like a ground or the solonoid. That doesn't explain why the truck won't come out of park. The neutral switch on the trannny would.

I don' think a faulty starter is a warranty item. Even though it is only three bolts, it looks hard to get to. How easy is it for me to replace those two items?
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 8:29 AM
Tiny
PEAR69
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There are two wires on the + battery terminal. One goes to the starter and one goes to the central junction box (in the engine compartment). The wire that goes to the starter is not fused. It may be worn away somewhere and draining the battery. Inspect every inch of this wire. Make sure the battery + terminal connections are clean.
There is a brake shift interlock (bsi) on the steering columb. It has a shift lock solenoid that is activated by the brake pedal position(bpp) switch (located under the left side of the dash). The bsi has two wires green and yellow. The green wire changes to a pink/lt. Green wire at the connector. This pink/lt. Green wire goes to the bpp switch. The bpp switch also has a lt. Blue/pink wire that is fused at the centeral junction box. Check all fuses in the engine compartment centeral fuse box.
The neutral safty switch is now called the Digital Transmission Range (dtr) sensor. It is located on the left side of the transmission. There is a dark blue/orange and a tan/red wire going to it. You can jump these wires out to test the switch. This will bypass the sensor.
A low battery can cause solenoids and sensors to burn out and/or not work properly. Find what is draining the battery ( probably a bad wire to the starter) and go from there. Sometimes a wire corrodes internaly, so just changing the starter wire may be a good idea.
If you have patience and a little mechanical and troubleshooting skills I am sure you can fix this yourself.
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 12:02 PM

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