2003 Ford F-150 Clutch Job

Tiny
CHARITOFIRE
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 130,000 MILES
Alright so I installed a new clutch package for someone buttons everything back up, bled the master cylinder and thought everything was good to go. Went to start the car, turn the key and nothing happened. No click, no wind, no turn of the flywheel. All wires were connected and battery was good. Found out the clutch safety switch connected to the pedal was the problem. It actually works fine, heres the issue. The clutch pedal rod is stiff as a rock and wont go down far enough to complete the connection for the safety switch. I thought being a new clutch it just needed more pressure to the pedal. I pressed as hard as I could until there was a "pop". The master cylinder quick disconnect popped out of the transmission hole where it links up to the internal slave cylinder in the tranmission. Whats going on. Why is it rock solid? Is the clutch not disengaging, is it stuck, was the quick disconnect reinstall incorrectly, did I install the clutch wrong? Please help. This was a job worth $300 and as a college student thats alot of money to lose. (The guys pissed I havent finished in the general time frame. Thanks for the help guys.

Just to add this is a 2003 ford f150 4.2 V6 Manual. I just read you have to adjust the clutch pressure plate on some models. Somebody hit me because I didnt. Did mine need to be adjusted?
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Thursday, August 26th, 2010 AT 2:49 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there

Was a new slave cylinder fitted? Is the correct pressure plate fitted? Is the quick connect damaged, can you r fit it to do some further diagnostics.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Thursday, August 26th, 2010 AT 2:56 AM
Tiny
CHARITOFIRE
  • MEMBER
I left the old slave cylinder in the transmission and no the pressure plate is self adjusting it doesnt need to be fitted? I thought the clutch just needed an extra push so I pressed on the clutch hard and the quick disconnect popped out. I went to bleed the master cylinder again and the O ring and a piece or plastic holding the Oring in popped out of the male end... Why was the clutch pedal so hard?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/310837_O_ring_1.jpg

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Saturday, August 28th, 2010 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
CHARITOFIRE
  • MEMBER
I spoke with a transmission shop and they said the connection could not be fully engaged. But once you snap the quick disconnect in it is engaged.I was able to bleed the system. Go to start the truck and the pedal is hard as a rock?
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Saturday, August 28th, 2010 AT 6:55 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

If you can bleed the system the hydraulics are ok, so it must be a mechanical problem with a seized or damaged slave, (this does not move when bleeding) or a mechanical problem with the clutch pressure plate, the master is ok as it is moving to bleed fluid as is the connection as fluid is passing when bleeding.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, August 28th, 2010 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
CHARITOFIRE
  • MEMBER
Ive read other forms with the same problem, they replace the slave and it doesnt solve the hard clutch problem. One shop told me the quick disconnect is 90% connected allowing bleeding but wont apply pressure to the slave. I almost believe him, the male quick disconnect is not pushing completely up against the female end. Id like to try this but the male end is now damaged. When I pushed on the pedal hard it popped out and the center plastic piece holding the small O ring broke in half (not the plastic sleeve on the outside on the quick disconnect). Could the slave really sieze up that bad?
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Saturday, August 28th, 2010 AT 8:02 PM

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