1994 Ford F-150 1994 F-150, 242k miles

Tiny
K_Y301
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 242,000 MILES
Hi folks !
I have a 1994 F-150 w/ 242k miles on it. I recently changed out the water pump and the harmonic balance. My truck
ran like a champ for a few days but then out of no-where I was idling at a redlight and my truck started to bump, its the only way to describe it and the longer I run it the worse the bump gets. Also, about the same time the bump started my truck started to loose horsepower. I have the 5.0 V8 in it and normally im doing 40 if I barely touch the gas. But now I have to mash the gas to get to 60, you can hear my engine
rev. And its trying to work but it just has no power.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Just as a heads up here's a list of the things that have been changed in the past two years starting most recent to least:
Water pump
Harmonic balance
Plugs, wires, distributor
Starter
Brakes
Rear differential fluid
Battery
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Thursday, February 18th, 2010 AT 4:57 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Answered this question already at 1st posting. This is a copy/ paste of it. Similar problem w/ 1982 Mustang 6cyl. Torque converter in tranny coming apart internally. Had some sort of deal that locked inside shaft to housing at certain RPM. (Giving engine 1 to 1 drive to tranny, no fluid slippage when in this mode, supposed to drop out as RPM dropped). Acted like yours until it locked together permanently (ALL RPMs) could crank only in neutral/ park, INSTANT drive in gear, engine could not turn it (1 to 1 ratio, like dumping the clutch at low RPM in straight drive). Replacement converter was made normal w/ no lock dealee, was able to replace it myself. Cost $125. Hope I ain't scared you. See my profile. Love, Turddog
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Friday, February 19th, 2010 AT 7:41 AM
Tiny
K_Y301
  • MEMBER
The response Turddog. I didn't think it would be a transmission problem while idling but it makes sense b/c my trans. Has been slipping for the last 2 years (I hardley notice it anymore b/c im so used to it and I forgot to mention it) i'm def. Not going to be looking forward to replacing it though. I aprreciate the response but if anyone else has anymore feedback it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again Turddog
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Friday, February 19th, 2010 AT 2:45 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi k_y301,

If the problem occurred while idling in gear, it is possible to be a fault with the transmission as described by Turddog.

The engine straining while not picking up speed indicates a slipping transmission and a binding torque converter can cause that.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
K_Y301
  • MEMBER
Would I have to pull the trans. Off to replace the converter? Or can anyone direct me to a manual on how to do it?
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 12:37 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Your converter is much like a clutch system in a straight drive rig. It is attached to the engine crank on one end. The mainshaft of the auto transmission on the other. Engine and tranny MUST pull apart to allow converter to be removed. Have seen tranny pulled to access. Have seen engine pulled to access

This is an involved job, Help from someone w/ some experience would definitly be a BIG PLUS. STEP X STEP PROCEDURES can be found in several references on your rig and on trannys can be found at local parts stores. SEE MY PROFILE. If you are really non-mechanical, SEEK ASSISTANCE, READ THRU LITERATURE. Or do what I do most of the timeGO FOR IT !

Love, Turddog
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 2:11 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Yes, work on the torque converter requires the trans to be removed.

AODE-W/4R70W TRANSMISSION
Removal (Bronco, Pickup & Van)

1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Drain transmission fluid. Remove converter drain plug access cover. Remove converter nuts. Drain torque converter.

2. Mark rear drive shaft yoke and companion flange for reassembly reference. Disconnect drive shaft from companion flange. Slide drive shaft to rear to separate from transmission. Install plug into extension housing to prevent leaks.

3. Remove starter. Unplug connector at manual lever position sensor. Remove rear mount bolts and crossmember bolts. Remove rear support bolts. Raise transmission enough to remove rear mount from crossmember. Remove crossmember.

4. Lower transmission enough to disconnect oil cooler lines. Plug oil cooler line openings. Remove filler tube and dipstick. Secure transmission to jack. Remove converter housing bolts. Carefully move transmission to rear and downward to remove it from vehicle.

Installation

1. Lubricate torque converter pilot with chassis grease. Install torque converter into transmission. Rotate torque converter to engage drive flats with pump gear.

2. Raise transmission into position. Torque converter will move freely with respect to flywheel when it is properly positioned. Install and tighten housing bolts.

3. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation. Use NEW "O" ring on filler tube. Lubricate drive shaft yoke splines with grease. Align reference marks on drive shaft and axle flange.

4. Fill transmission with Motorcraft Mercon ATF (XT-2-QDX).
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
K_Y301
  • MEMBER
Lol Turddog, you crack me up man. Anyway I appreciate the advice. I have another vehicle so If I tear this one apart im not too worried about it. Thanks again man. I think i'm going to just go for it, lol
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS LINSEY
  • MEMBER
We appreciate your donation and look forward to helping you in the future. Thank you
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010 AT 12:32 PM
Tiny
K_Y301
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the step by step instructions. I didn't know you even posted them. It's a good thing I haven't started on the project yet ! I very much appreciate the advice guys, yalll are awesome !
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010 AT 1:03 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
You're welcome and glad to be of help.

Have a nice day.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010 AT 1:51 PM

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