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Your rig may have a newer type solenoid, than what I show in my pics...........These are '70s & '80s Jeep and Ford solenoids I show (my Dad's '86 T-Bird, is the Newer Type)........I sorta made this for Jeep CJs, but it may help you too!
I do not know what you have........The way they all operate is the Same!
Maybe you will understand how to apply this to yours, whatever style you have
THIS WAS DESIGNED TO AID "NO START"..... JEEP CJs......As far as the starter system.
THE PROCEDURES MAY ALSO HELP YOU........IF YOU DO NOT SKIP OVER THEM!
If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!!
TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS ANYTHING OFF, AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".
Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!
While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.
If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.
My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.
Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!
Please Reply, Good or Bad.
I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".
Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.
"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY
IF THIS IS A CJ---HOOK UP EXACTLY AS IN THE PIC ABOVE......NO WHINING!.....JUST DO IT!
1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY
2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR
3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR
4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)
5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"
THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").
WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.
THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.
6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.
7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )
(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.
IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND
Basically to "OVERRIDE THE KEY" you must Connect, The Battery Positive cable to the "S TERMININAL" of your Solenoid, USING A SHORT JUMPER WIRE (Briefly, for seconds, this will act like the key is cranking it) This will only work if the solenoid is good.
The Screwdriver Trick only works if Both of these items are side-by-side on the solenoid (thats why I recommend that the CJs wire exactly like mine, in pic, So "A & C" or rather wires, "1 & 5" can be EZily "shorted" with a REMOTE STARTER or a screwdriver, in a pinch!
To override the whole Solenoid, connect "A & B" or wires, "1 & 2" Temporarily, with a Heavy Cable, such as connect one side of your jumper cables to POS BATTERY, then touch the heavy starter wire firmly with the other end.
You will have SPARKS, NOISE and ENGINE MOVEMENT, when you do this.................You might have to clean out your britches, too!.........SO BE CAREFUL!!!!!!
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Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 5:16 PM