2004 Ford Explorer won't start

Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 115,000 MILES
I went to start my Explorer this morning and it turned over but didn't fire. I let off and tried it again, but this time it did not even turn over. Nothing. All the lights on the dash come until I turn the key to the start position and then some of them go off. It makes a small click in the dash when the odometer light goes off, but otherwise it sounds like just relay noise in the engine compartment. The battery seems to be good, but nothing happens. What do you suggest?
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2010 AT 8:34 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
You say the battery it good but have you had it checked? If not I would like you to check it with have it load tested. You can either take the battery to you local parts store and have them check it or buy a load tester. After you have it tested and if it checks out good then we will go from there.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2010 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
I had the old battery checked and it was marginal, so I bought a new one. Nothing changed. It is still not cranking over. Doing exactly the same thing.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2010 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
I pulled the starter and had it tested. Came back Good.
Starter Relay clicks when test leads applied but I don't know if that means it is totally ok or not. Don't know what to do now.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2010 AT 6:04 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok so if I understand correctly the engine will not crank over at all? All you get is a click and that is it? At the starter relay I need to know if you have power to term 30 at all times. Then check fuse 29 it is under the dash in the fuse box on the drivers side should be 10 amp make sure it is good. Let me know what you find and we will go from there.
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Wednesday, May 26th, 2010 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
No, the engine will not crank at all, only a click. Not getting power to the starter. I do have power to terminal 30 at all times and fuse 29 is not burnt, but no power to the fuse with key off or on. Checked it with test light and swapped it with a known good 10 amp to make sure. Neither fuse lit up in socket 29 but both did in a different socket.
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Wednesday, May 26th, 2010 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok the battery cable from the battery to the starter make sure there is power there at the starter. Now if that is good I need you to check power at the starter relay Term 30 on the relay should have power at all times this power comes from fuse 12 this fuse is in the under hood fuse box. If that is good then check for power at term 85 when in the start position and also check for power getting to term 87 on the relay. If this isn't good then replace the relay.
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Thursday, May 27th, 2010 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
Ok, I do have power at the starter. Also continuous power at term 30 and power to term 85 in the start position. Term 87 does is not getting power with the key in any position. Fuse 12 is good. Will replace the relay and let you know.

Ok, I have replaced the relay and still nothing.
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Thursday, May 27th, 2010 AT 9:22 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok does this have a anti theft system?
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Friday, May 28th, 2010 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
Yes it has anti theft, when I turn the key to start the llight in the dash stops blinking and stays red until the key is turned off then returns starts blinking again.
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Friday, May 28th, 2010 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Well the anti theft system is what may causing all your problems. Everything else checks out ok. So what I need you to do is make sure you have power at fuse 20 and power coming out and make sure fuse 14 has power. Now the PAT's transciever is on the steering column do you feel comfortable running a couple of tests? I also need to know did you change or disconnect the battery resently?
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Saturday, May 29th, 2010 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
I do have power to both fuse 20 and 14. How would I check power coming out? Yes I am comfortable running tests. I did replace the battery, but that was after the trouble began.
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Saturday, May 29th, 2010 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok what I need you to do is check for power ok. Make sure there is power going in and out of fuse 25 at all times. Now make sure that there is power going to and coming out of fuse 19 when in run or start position. These fuses are in the fuse box inside the truck. Now you said you have power to the starter from the battery but did you check to see if there is power to the S term on the starter when in start position? Get back to me with what you find and we will go from there. Sorry this is taking a while but we are doing this via internet we will get it figured out it sometimes takes a bit.
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Tuesday, June 1st, 2010 AT 8:43 AM
Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
There is power at fuse 25 all the time and fuse 19 in the run position. As far as the starter, I assume you mean the small wire going to the starter. There is no power there when trying to start. Only to positive battery cable
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Tuesday, June 1st, 2010 AT 9:53 AM
Tiny
BIGGB
  • MEMBER
Thanks for your help but I figured what was wrong.
The computer had lost programming for the key.
I had a locksmith come out and reprogram it and it fired right up.
Thanks again
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Tuesday, June 1st, 2010 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Great glad to hear it that is the direction we where going you just saw that and went for it. Great job and if there is anything else I can do just ask.
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Thursday, June 3rd, 2010 AT 11:06 AM

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