My Four Wheel Drive is always engaged, on my 1997 Ford Explorer XLT. I changed the power shift motor on the transfer case, and the transfer case is still engaged. On the dash the idicator points to: Auto, High and Low with 4x4 above High. I am not sure if the transfer case is suppose to be engage all the time. The Manual states Control Trac system is an option or as it reads: (IF EQUIPPED). It also states, when in the 4 Wheel Drive auto mode full power is delivered to front and rear axles, I am asumming this is why when I put it on a rack all four wheels are going, the Owners Manual is not exactly clear. Is all wheel drive different then Auto Four Wheel Drive, my previous assumption was auto meant on demand, 4 Wheel enagaement at High when slipeage occurs, owners manual states full Power deliverd to front and rear, confused. There are no blinking lights when the four wheel indicator light comes on, so I can rule out any bad codes. When I switch it to 4Wheel High there is no RPM change, as it seems it is always in 4 Wheel High perhaps, indicator light does come on however. When I switch it to 4Wheel Low you can hear it turning, as you are suppose to. When I give it gas, from a stop, in 4 Wheel Auto it is very slugish, especially on turns, like the old Jeep Cherokees when making a sharp turn a little unstable, wondering if I can make it through a busy intersection. At higher speeds going straight it seems a little more stable. At lower speeds it feels like perhaps the transmission is not shifting correctly, bogging down, extreme slugish take-offs. If anyone can advise it would be appreciated, thanks.
In reference to the 97 Explorer that is experiencing problems; I thought it was the four wheel drive. You asked me to go to a parking lot and do the following. 1.) In four wheel auto go in a tight circle. Result very little skipping, didn't feel great a little bogging or for a lack of a better word, slight dragging, not that bad campared to the following. 2.) In four wheel high same tight circle. Result plenty of skipping, dragging ( I call this bogging down), tire marks on the pavement. 3.) In four wheel low same tight circle. Results the same as four high, see results for 2 above. 4.) Four Wheel drive indicator light came on with little or no hesitation, both in four high and low, went off right away when I switced it to auto. 5.) Push vehicle on dry pavement. Results pushed with ease, considering the weight of vehicle, got a good push on it and it rolled to a slow stop after about 40 feet or so, on a fairly level lot. Drive home was bad; in 4 wheel auto, felt that bogging down feeling in lower speeds (city driving), about the whole way, 55 mph plus, bogging down was less of a factor, almost felt comfortable at times at higher speeds. Didn't have that get up and go from a stop. This morning I took it off my ramps, front end up, and it rode great for five miles or so. I did replace the motor drive to the transfer case. I also had the Transmission flushed out at one of those rip off places, figuring this will be a quick fix, I assumed they were going to take the pan off, but instead they did the top side flush. I put it on the ramps to take the pan off, drain it out all over again (thinking the screen may be clogged), but the little woman had different plans for me, work, not fun, rather be with my Explorer. On ramps for 2 days (haven t done the tranny thing to it yet other then the top side flush as mentioned), don t know if this had anything to do with the short good drive, front end elevated for 2 days, or just the fact it was sitting for over a week and cold. Anyway hope you can help thanks.
October, 7, 2007 AT 12:38 PM
Took my Explorer into an Auto Parts place and had the codes read, Result no codes showed up (no bad codes). I appreciate any advise, thanks.
October, 7, 2007 AT 3:25 PM
My Explorer has two Cats, expensive, dual coming out of engine then leading to a single muffler, looks like I got to waste the cats to dissconnect. No kinks or bends in pipe, cats look orginal, outside appearence looks good, dont know the inside shape till I disconnect. Shouldn't it of showed up in the codes? Is there another way to check air flow, since its dual cats (just to keep down cost), would pulling the spark plugs out be advisable, check for extra carbon uniformed on one side of cylinder head perhaps, if it is just one bad cat?