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1996 Ford Explorer Engine light on

Tiny
FSMARTINO
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 152,500 MILES
My 96 Explorer 6 cyl. Has engine light on and an emission test due like now. I had 6 or 7 codes detected by an AutoZone. Not sure what to do I took the car to my local Ford service dept for a scan. They said I need a new DPFE sensor, catalytic converter, catalytic monitor, and fuel system cleaning. The bill would be $1,936.00. WOW. I can do the work myself but have a couple questions. Will a single tank universal cat convert work as well as the exact fit 2 tank (a LOT cheaper)? How does one clean a fuel system? Being at the engine and upstream, would the DPFE go bad because of a bad converter or converter monitor? Would appreciate your advice. Thanks.
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Saturday, May 31st, 2008 AT 11:47 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Never never never never never never never never(did I say never?). Go to a dealer for anything. Take your car to autozone and get a free computer scan. Then come back with the codes, I think you will be pleasantly surprised, these people are there to make as much money off each person as possible. If you don't have an autozone then check your local parts places they will do a scan for free.
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Saturday, May 31st, 2008 AT 11:52 PM
Tiny
FSMARTINO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I did mention that I went to an AutoZone first. They gave me codes P0113 (Intake Air Temp); P0117 (Engine Coolant Temp); P0141 (Heated O2 sensor B1 S2); P0401 (EGR); P0420 (Catalyst efficiency system B1). With all that info I decided to get the scan at Ford. The decision to not spend $1936.00 was easy, and I know I can change parts myself. The questions I asked are my problem. Can you help me with them?
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Sunday, June 1st, 2008 AT 12:18 AM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Ok sorry, the dpfe will not go bad because of a bad converter or converter monitor, and as far as the converter, as long as a single tank is on a list of recommendations for that vehicle, then sure it will work just as well as that double direct fit. But remember there is welding involved on the universal.
Only get a converter that is on the list of recommendations
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Sunday, June 1st, 2008 AT 5:49 AM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
I wouldn't use a universal one on this, too difficult and higher risk of problems.
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Sunday, June 1st, 2008 AT 7:12 AM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Thanx bud
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Sunday, June 1st, 2008 AT 7:27 AM
Tiny
FSMARTINO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I replaced the cat converter with a Maremont direct fit, and the downstream monitor. All I could do to reset codes at home was to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. I 'broke in' the converter per its instructions by driving about 5 miles at the speeds and times they recommended, then shut off the engine and let it cool down about an hour. Then I took another ride and after about 1 mile, the ENGINE light came back on. The only thing I haven't done that Ford said was wrong is replace the DPFE sensor Ford said failed because of a bad converter. Am I on the right track, or am I missing something? Will take to AutoZone for a scan tomorrow. Thanks.
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+1
Thursday, June 5th, 2008 AT 9:39 PM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
Start with the scan like your doing and post the code number(s)
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Friday, June 6th, 2008 AT 5:26 AM
Tiny
FSMARTINO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Just got back from having AutoZone rescan. Today's codes are P0133 (O2 slow response, B1 S1), P0135 (O2 heater condition, B1 S1), P0401 (EGR). FYI, I replaced my EGR and tube to exhaust, my vacuum solenoid, DPFE, and both rubber vac hoses 14,000 miles ago. These hoses are clear and not leaking. The note with P0135 says the PCM recognizes a sensor heater faliure and to check the circuit fuse, but I have no idea where that is.

I just bought a B1 S1 O2 sensor and new DPFE sensor. Before I put them on do you have any ideas I should try first?
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Friday, June 6th, 2008 AT 12:33 PM

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