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Strut assembly removal instructions needed

Tiny
FONTANA
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD ESCORT
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 117,000 MILES
Vehicle listed above is a wagon. Right rear spring. This spring appears to be made of about 3 different springs fastened together. The bottom one appears to have broken off. It is about one coil. I was able to pull it out, and the car rides well and nothing seems to be adversely affected. I have been using the car for 5 months but have been a little careful with the load. I bought springs and was going to replace my self, but I couldn't take off the strut assembly because I couldn't get the lower mounting bolts off. I got the nuts off, and the bolts spin but won't come out. I tried to hammer them out but they wont move much. I suspect that they may have been bent when the the spring broke? Anyway it is now too cold for me to work on the car. Will it hurt to drive the car until spring like it is? How do I get the bolts off? I have never drilled out a bolt. How do I do that, and what tools needed? Is there another option? Can I just replace left rear spring or at least for now?
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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 7:26 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JNOVACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 723 POSTS
You will have to straighten out the bolts and hammer them out and replace them
1997-99 Models
See Figure 12

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
On sedan and coupe models, remove the package tray trim panel.
On wagon models, remove the quarter trim panel.
Unfasten the two upper strut retaining nuts.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the clip securing the brake hose to the rear strut assembly.
If equipped with anti-lock brakes, unfasten the ABS sensor bolt.
Remove the nuts and bolts securing the rear strut assembly to the wheel spindle.
Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/52960_0900c1528008dfc8_1.jpg


Fig. 12: Location of the two upper strut retaining nuts (arrows)-1997-99 models
To install:

Position the strut assembly into the vehicle wheel housing.
Install the nuts and bolts securing the strut assembly to the rear wheel spindle assembly. Tighten the lower strut bolts and nuts to 76-100 ft. lbs. (103-136 Nm).
If equipped with anti-lock brakes, tighten the ABS sensor bolt.
Install the clip securing the flexible brake hose to the rear strut assembly.
Install the wheel and tire assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the two upper strut retaining nuts and tighten to 34-46 ft. lbs. (47-62 Nm).
Install the trim panel.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Check the rear wheel alignment.
Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 8:24 PM
Tiny
FONTANA
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Will I tried to hammer bolt out but couldn't budge it more than slightly. The bolt would turn using wrench but not move out much. Is the next best option to drill it out - it might be hard to get drill straight at that angle.
A ford manual I got hold of seems to say that the struts can be replaced independently of each other. Do you agree with that? I have been driving it as is and would like to not work on it until its warmer out. Think that might be okay if I don't load it much?
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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 9:46 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 723 POSTS
When you turn the bolt do you see a bend in the movement you should be able to tap the bolt out you may want to spray wd-40 or my favorite pb-blaster and as long as you put the nuts back on the bolts you should be ok to drive till warmer weather but keep an eye on the wear on the tires if they start wearing to bad or to fast you need to fix very soon.
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Sunday, December 21st, 2008 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
ICANFIXTHAT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Answering this question years later just in case someone else needs the help and because I just did it. Also helps to have yourself an impact wrench. Lowes sells a torquey (600ft-lb) battery powered one for less than $250.00 made by Kobalt. It is a life saver. In order to get the bolts out you'll need a torch (I used a plumber's torch) and a 3 lb hammer or hard mallet. An ordinary carpenter's hammer won't be able to do the job. Leave the nut partially threaded on the bolt (so you don't mushroom it) and heat up the bolt as hot as you can. Then hammer it out. Applying heat usually does the trick. If your bolts come out stripped (mine did on the right side) someone is selling replacements on eBay. I used strut bolt part number F1CZ-18036-A (which is labeled for the front and is a few millimeters longer than the originals) or M12-1.25 x 45 MM Grade 10.9 JIS Hex Flange Bolts with nuts (non-serrated). If you're feeling brave you can tinker with the camber adjustment bolts various vendors are selling too. I used liquid wrench and it did nothing. Only the torch worked.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Thank you so much for the addition to this site. I am sure that will help others that visit this site. Let us know if there is anything we can help you with.

Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 4:46 PM

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